Oil but glossy plz help

[section1]

I suppose your right ok I will try and find pure tung oil not sure who sells it but I'm sure I must of mentioned in my earlier posts about the buffing oil. Unfortunately for me the buffing on pine turned out to be a super high gloss which looked plastic it just wouldn't suit my projects.

Yes that look is semi gloss but to achieve that look would take subsequent coats over several days but I achieved in just one day nad only one hour it's dry I think that is an accomplishment in itself. I should of taken a photo of it with just the sealer but I didn't think, the oil only slightly modified it appearance.

[section1]

I searched for your earlier post and saved it on my computer I will try it and see what I come up with, but where do I find these products besides shellac

[LGS]

You can buy pure Tung Oil from Organoil, but it's expensive. I buy Sceney's Pure Tung Oil for $20.00/litre at my local Mitre 10 Hardware. Both perform well. They also sell a Citrus Solvent, which is most likely Terbene. (A litre of Tung Oil will last you quite a while I would think.)
One other thing you might want to take into consideration while you are comparing finishes, is what the grain resolution looks like. Tung Oil gives beautiful resolution of colour and grain. Much better IMHO than Danish Oil of any ilk.
Good luck.

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

ok Rob I appreciate your support I will go first thing Tuesday as Monday is a public holiday but one thing they say Pure tung oil never dries is the shellac that will seal it in. What if Mixed soe dewaxed shellac to act like a like varnish

[section1]

Or should I mix Boiled linseed oil so it dries quicker

[LGS]

If you follow the burnishing method to apply the Tung Oil and Terbene or White Spirit mix, the Tung Oil will be near dry at the end of the procedure. If you like, give it 12 hours or less if you want (maybe 8 hours) and then apply the Shellac. Don't mix them as the oil is immiscible with the Shellac. Four coats of Shellac sanded between each coat with 400 or higher, will give you the result. But before you use the Shellac, have a look at the finish you get with the burnished Tung Oil. I think you might find you don't need the Shellac. (Though on Western Red Cedar, I think you might.)

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

Alright will do just I don't want a complete burnished surface but I'm sure this will work out.

[LGS]

When you wet sand up through the grits, stop and look at the result you have for 800g, 1200g and 1500g. You can decide where you want to stop the burnishing. I would suggest at least 1500, but the result you want may be at 1200 or even 800g. It's just a question of watching the result as you go along.

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

The thing is I still would like some level of protection I was thinking about buying some varnish and mixing in with it. In Livos they have boiled linsed oil mixed with beeswax. What would you recommend as protection.

[LGS]

Burnishing the oil will give you excellent protection against radiant heat and liquids, both cold and hot. You can wipe down the finished item with Spray and Wipe! Have a look at this thread, particularly the posts where I have compared the properties of several oils in protective finishing. It's not necessary to add anything except the Terbene or White Spirit.

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

Thanks Rob I have read most of the posts that you linked and I have tried Organoil Burnishing Oil on a sample before, now I only sanded it up to 2000grit cause that's all I can get my hands on and I did it on hoop pine and being closed grain I really didn't even need to go that high. Sure enough the surface was very glossy but also very plastic looking as well, the part that bothered and damned if I can remember whether I put a coat of EEE or just the minwax paster wax but after applying and buffing it out I ran my finger nail very light along the wood and it scrached it. I couldn't even buff it out.

[LGS]

There are a couple of points here.

1. EEE cream is not a finish, it is a cutting agent. It will act like very fine sandpaper and thus enhance the fineness and shine of wood. So you have actually done the equivalent of sanding to 4000 or higher.

2. The wax would need time to harden and so by running your nail over the fresh surface, even lightly, you have taken the wax layer off the surface. Only rewaxing would even the surface out again. Buffing wouldn't help.

3. There is no need to put anything on top of, mix in with or apply before the burnished oil. You should have seen the tests I did on the oil regarding heat and liquid in that thread I linked to in the last message. The oil is unaffected by these issues.

4. It doesn't matter what finish you put on a surface, if you scratch it, it will mark. At least with a penetrating oil, like Tung Oil or Hard Burnishing Oil, the scratches can be treated by wiping the surface with more oil.

Keep the operation simple and you will succeed!

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

Thanks Rob for all your help mate I'm really looking forward in getting that tung oil also I have heaps or burnishing oil and will try it again but this time not going so high in grits not with pine anyway

[section1]

The only place that sells it here is Bristols in 5 litre cans, I spoke to Greg at Sceney's and he said it takes 2 days to dry but it is touch dry with an hour or so. He also said that the Citrus solvent is not Terebine so it's not a drying agent but being in Qld and it is getting hot here I wouldn't need it. Lastly he mentioned to apply very thin coats as if your doing french polishing, thick coats will make the tung oil become tacky he also mentioned the more coats I put on the glossier the surfface will become.

Since you've used this successfully how much do you put on. Oh almost forgot he said to use on softwood 75% oil and 25% citrus and hardwoods 50/50. I'm going now to buy it this will set me back $110 but if I get the results I'm after it's worth it.

[LGS]

You can buy the Tung Oil for $35/l approx at Carbatec. The Terebine as well. And don't forget that you can use White Spirit intead of the terebine.

If you do not intend Burnishing the oil, then do as the guy from Sceney's said. Most people do not understand the benefits that can be achieved by burnishing. It is this process that imparts many of the properties of the finish

Without burnishing, the oil will take two days to dry, but after burnishing, only a few hours is necessary to get sufficient curing to give you a hard, beautiful finish.

Regards,

Rob