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16th October 2007, 02:35 PM #31New Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Melb
- Posts
- 4
we have just ordered a flatpack kitchen and laundry from kitset kitchens... the gf found them very helpful and friendly... came to $7000 delivered in 4 weeks.
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22nd October 2007, 05:12 PM #32Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 12
Also looking into flat pack kitchens.
Got confirmation by Armstrongs (in Melb) that they don't have solid backs. They said that it adds no structural integrity / strength and only cost.
But most other kitchen places seem to insist on having solid backs!
So, what's better? To have solid backs or solid tops (for floor units)?
Another thing I find with these cheaper flatpacks is that there's less choice on finish of doors and panels. Both Armstrongs and Kitset don't offer 2 pack finish...
Are there other suppliers out there with cheap, good quality, good selection of kitchen finishes!!!
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22nd October 2007, 05:24 PM #33
I would have thought that the fact that all of your cupboards get screwed back to the wall through the backs might be a factor in deciding what sort of board is used for the backs - both bases and wall units.
A solid top is not a requirement on a floor unit - it just needs a top rail at the front to screw the bench down onto.
This will proivide all the rigidity you need.
Unfortunately good two pack will cost you, as not many local crews are going to have stacks of doors already cut to size and pre painted.
A good custom flat pack fabricator (made to order) should be able to arrange two pack doors for you - it is just a bit more waiting time and a fair bit more money ; the doors are cut and profiled to order then sent to a painter for finishing.
Cheers,
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24th October 2007, 02:36 PM #34New Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 2
an example
I just completed my kitchen with Bunnings Flatpax, they are relatively low cost and easy to install, the only thing disappointed was the hinge and runner supplied does not work properly, as ppl mentioned before ...
From my little experience, do the following before started to order.
- draw a plan with proper measurement
- complete the floor before install cabinet, and make sure it is level.
The material is 'green board' but not that green, not sure if it is really water resistant, but I can tell IKEA's cupboard definately not "green", that is one of the reason why i did't go for them, eventhough they look great on display.
Eventhing going fine by now, except I'm having trouble with the stone benchtop, don't know if 20 mm would be stong enough by sitting just right on top of cabinet without a underlying MDF, and also the cabinets are stong enought to support the weight.
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24th October 2007, 04:46 PM #35
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24th October 2007, 09:56 PM #36SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Location
- Sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 882
Backing for floor cupboards is often cheap single sided 3mm stuff, with a rail at the top for wall fixing.
When I do mine, I'm plastering and painting the wall first. Then I'll fit 2x1 edged melamine rails to support the middle shelves which will be up to 8' long . There'll be no carcase end panels except for either side of the drawer unit, although I may put some 3mm next to the dishwasher to stop the cockies getting in. The top will be supported by the 4x1 edged melamine that the doors hang off, with a rail on top.
I'm considering making the doors, and the few exposed end panels, from MDF which I'll fit and profile myself with a router. Then I'll either buy a cheap spray gun, or I'll send them off for two pack.
I'm considering making the top out of 90x35 KD HWD.
It's a pretty big kitchen, and I'm still contemplating the design, but I reckon it would only take about half a dozen sheets of melamine, and half a dozen sheets of MDF. About $500 for the structure plus edging and a few screws.
The benchtops would be about $500 in timber, plus glue, screws, benchtop joiners and finishing.
I've got heaps of hinges and drawer runners from old kitchens on council clean ups, and a nice double bowl sink as well, so the whole lot should cost less than $1,500, plus a nice tap, stove, oven and dishwasher, and possibly glass splashbacks that I'll paint myself.
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25th October 2007, 02:19 PM #37New Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Ringwood North
- Posts
- 8
Excuse the camera phone being on the wrong setting, but here's the finished Bunnings Flatpax kitchen, needs a door over the fridge housing (now in place) and some painting and siliconing etc, but you get the idea.
All in, was mostly pain free apart from wonky runners to the drawers (the first batch we bought were a different brand to the remaining ones supplied later when we bought the rest of the units).
Cheers.
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25th October 2007, 03:46 PM #38New Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Melb
- Posts
- 4
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