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23rd January 2018, 11:59 AM #31GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2011
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- Albury
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Judging by the 3 month delay suffered by the OP in this recent thread - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f15/gut-218427 - the answer to that would be a resounding NO!
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23rd January 2018, 01:07 PM #32
I think new Triton routers should only be sold under the moniker "suit enthusiast", a bit like Italian cars......
In the case of the cars, "suit enthusiast" means someone who doesn't mind crawling around underneath the thing every weekend fixing it.
For Triton routers, it means someone who doesn't mind pulling the thing to pieces and ordering parts from overseas to keep it going.
Pathetic customer service, and I'd suggest that anyone considering buying a new router votes with their feet and gives Triton a miss.
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23rd January 2018, 06:08 PM #33Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
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- 4,394
One major Triton distributor gave them the short shrift some months ago because of prices rises and new politics.
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23rd January 2018, 06:53 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Valla Beach
- Posts
- 479
Hi all, This thread has obviously created a lot of interest, and there would be a lot of TRA001 owners out there reading all this. Evident by 6,600 views in a very short space of time. It wasn't really my intention to knock my Triton Router. Sure I had to spend 3 days pulling it apart and trying to work out what went wrong with it, and then ordering parts from the UK. My old Triton workcentre served me well for 14 years, having made all the timber furniture thoughout my house. I sold it about 5 years ago, and bought a De Walt table saw when I got into boxmaking. I even had the first Triton workcentre out, the old Mark3 I think it was called. My son still has that now out at Molong, and just about every time I go to visit him, out comes my old Triton Mark3 workcentre for some project he has lined up.
So about 5 years ago when I got into boxmaking, I set myself up with my DeWalt table saw, I made my own router table to suit the TRA001, and made my own drum sander. These tools pretty much account for all my boxmaking requirements, and they have done a heap of work now. Purely as a hobby, I've sold $18,000 of boxes, made ten guitars, and a lot of other woodwork type items. So they certainly don't owe me anything.
Hence I didn't really mind paying the $479 for a new TRA001, and maybe I will end up with two of these in a few weeks time. I just wanted one "now" and not having to wait. It certainly would be good if there was backup service and parts available within Australia, but that's how it is I guess.
Paul
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5th February 2018, 04:23 PM #35GOLD MEMBER
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- Sep 2011
- Location
- Valla Beach
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- 479
Hi everyone, I cant believe this thread is up to 27,163 views in less than 3 weeks, amazing. Must be a lot of TRA001 owners out there. Anyway, the good news is that those two parts arrived last week and I just put my TRA001 back together this arvo. And works perfectly, there are three small 2mm steel pins that go into that orange handle, that don't come with the new part. They were a bit hard to pull out of the old handle but they do come out. Very important parts as they are crucial in the locking mechanism. Anyway, with some effort I was able to remove them from the old orange handle. So it was the worn thread on the orange handle that was the culprit. Obviously worn from countess lifting up and down in my table.
So now I have two Triton TRA001's bit funny really. Firstly I wasn't 100% sure this was the problem I was pretty sure, secondly I wasn't sure if I could get that part, and thirdly had no idea how long it would take, but the turn around was just a couple of weeks.
(and fourthly, with the number of boxes I make I just didn't want to be sitting around waiting).
Paul
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6th February 2018, 11:47 PM #36Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- Western Australia
- Posts
- 51
That is great news. I'm sure this thread will help others in future so thanks for all the details.
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7th February 2018, 10:23 AM #37GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Location
- Canberra
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- 1,054
I had the same problem and replaced my orange knob in May 2016. Been working fine since.
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10th September 2019, 03:14 PM #38Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 42
I have exactly the same problem and just found this thread, very helpful. Just like the OP, the gear on the end of my orange plastic part has been worn away somewhat. Thanks for sharing.
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17th September 2019, 03:34 PM #39Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 42
IMG_2490.JPG
For anybody who may have the same problem in future, I ordered a replacement part from the toolsparesonline UK site referenced above, it only took a week to arrive here in Australia! (Actually I ordered three of them so I have future spares if it happens again). Here is a photo of my worn gear - the teeth have been ground away to virtually nothing at the edge.
On reflection, I previously used to route mortises on the router table by reaching under the table and quickly raising and lowering the bit into the wood using the twist handle. Doing this frequently would have engaged and disengaged that gear into its metal coupling over and over, and if the teeth weren't exactly aligned this would have caused significant wear of the plastic part. I've since switched to cutting mortises using a hand-held plunge router with a dedicated jig so it will be interesting to see if the problem reoccurs in future. In any case, from now on I will be careful when releasing the handle to finesse the plastic gear into its mate without any harsh grinding.
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17th September 2019, 09:10 PM #40
Good to see you you were able to decipher what has caused your failure. When ever I raise or lower my Triton I always give the handle a slight rotation in each direction after releasing the orange gear to ensure the gear has engaged fully before I let go of the handle. Hopefully this action will prevent it from failing for a long time.
Dallas
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21st August 2021, 12:20 AM #41New Members
- Join Date
- Aug 2021
- Location
- Germany
- Posts
- 1
Thanks to all you guys here for singly and collectively saving my Triton MOF001. The wear pattern is exactly the same as on your TRA001 models and the fix is identical. I found you by searching the Internet for the key words and joined the forum just to say thanks.
You may find it interesting to hear that not only was shipping for the spare part (from the UK to me in Germany) four times the cost of the part itself, but that the customs duty I had to pay was a little more than the cost of the part and to top it all, the fee charged by the carrier (DHL) for paying this duty at customs was three times the duty itself!
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13th September 2021, 07:21 AM #42
Good morning WP,
I have just bout the 1400w version second hand and when I got it home i found out that the pop-in button doesn't come back out, rendering the rack and pinion useless.
I will blast the button with air to clear out any gunk but do you know if these can be dismantled to clean them properly?
Thanks in advance
Chris
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14th September 2021, 09:35 AM #43Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
- Posts
- 4,394
Try this link
Dismantling the Triton MOF001 2¼HP Router
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10th December 2022, 10:48 AM #44New Members
- Join Date
- Dec 2022
- Location
- NSW Australia
- Posts
- 1
Did you remove spring that is needed for use as a plunge router before mounting in table? Have heard the height adjustment gear wears out quickly with the spring still installed .
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14th December 2022, 04:51 PM #45
Definitely remove the plunge spring for inverted mounting in a table. In normal upright use, it has a reaction of about 135% of the mass of the plunging parts to counter the effect of gravity and withdraw when releasing after a plunge cut. Inverted, the reaction operates with gravity rather than against it so the load that the height adjustor sees is about 235% of the mass of the plunging parts, significantly overloading the height adjustor mechanism and accelerating wear. With the spring removed, the height adjustor is only dealing with the mass of the plunging parts.
Dust can enter the plunge tubes at the base when inverted, and it is not uncommon for it to travel down the spring tube and build up in the motor housing and compact there. If it does this, the winder will not be able to lift the motor fully enough to engage the spindle lock to change bits. To avoid this, remove the spring retainer every few hours of inverted operation and try and vacuum any dust in the housing before it has a chance to compact. This will keep the winder mechanism able to wind the motor up enough to engage the spindle lock.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.