Kauri Trunk

[Kidbee]

I can't help thinking that you should have done research on the name and date of the Kauri trunk with a museum or the like, before you began your restoration. It may have had some historical significance and been more valuable than you thought. I believe early Australian stuff like that may have value.

[Thumbthumper]

I understand your thoughts.
There have been tears shed when I think of the amount of these boxes (and indeed all antique furniture) that have been belt sanded and estapoled. Let's not talk about 'shabby chic'.

I can't help thinking that you should have done research on the name and date of the Kauri trunk with a museum or the like, before you began your restoration.

I have researched every iteration of the signed name and date I could think of and have come up with nothing.
I move within a circle of restorers/conservators and always seek advice and collaborate when restoring just about any piece, especially early pieces.
I use traditional tools, adhesives, finishes and techniques for my restorations.

It may have had some historical significance and been more valuable than you thought

It may have.
We can only speculate.
It could also have been made by grandpa in the back shed

I believe early Australian stuff like that may have value.

It does. I value it highly but will never sell it.

It was unusable as a blanket box as I found it, but it will be very useful after I have finished restoring (conserving) it.
It will not be over cleaned.
Every single original piece of it has been retained.

[Thumbthumper]

I needed to clean up the front edge of the cedar top to prepare for the molding.
Whilst I'm not looking for perfection, I would like a better joint.
The original molding has been missing for a long time. The edge was rounded over either from wear, or sanding to remove the sharp edge when the molding broke away.

A number 7 is perfect for this job.
I removed about 5mm from the front.

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The molding will be a simple round over section.
Made on the edge of a board with a large hollow plane and cut off with the bandsaw.

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More to come soon ...

[Thumbthumper]

The top molding is now pinned on.
Glued on the long grain and a few dabs of glue on the end grain.
Clamped overnight to ensure a tight fit.

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Nails punched under and the holes filled with coloured wax.
It's now time to clean down the old polish.
I'll wash the dirty polish over the molding to blend it in a bit.

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After cleaning under the top, some old motor oil bled back up.
The trusty Tricleanium will take care of this over a few days.
Second pic shows the result after the first clean. I'm expecting it to bleed back up again. I want to get rid of as much of it as I can because I won't be applying finish under the lid.

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[Thumbthumper]

Not too much to do on the Cedar trunk now.
Once I get it out of the way I can start on the Kauri trunk again

The new (old) drawer lock has now been fitted on the candle box.
I had to plug the old keyhole and cut a new one in a slightly different position.

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The top has had its first couple of coats of polish.

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Cutting the skirting bead.
And of course, the plane hit an old nail during the first run.
After some cursing and reshaping the side bead iron (removing a nick on a fairly complex profile is not so simple), the skirting was ready to go.

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Day 1 the box was glued up.
Day 2, the bottom boards nailed on and the skirting fitted.

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The trunk will now need a good clean and polish.

[Thumbthumper]

The Cedar trunk is now finished and in the house

Now to finish the Kauri trunk ...

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[fletty]

Wow TT, that is just beeeautiful, well done you!

fletty

[hiroller]

Nice work, you must ba a trunk whisperer!

[Thumbthumper]

Some holiday down time has allowed me back into the shed. There's a spot for the Kauri trunk in the house now.

The top has had it's first few coats of polish and I'll call it done for now.

Before ...

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After ...

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I didn't really want to knock this trunk apart, so I'll fix up some of the loose joints separately.

Some problem areas

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I may set some bow tie keys in the case for this split

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The first of the repairs are underway.
I cleaned out the joints with a card scraper and washed them out with water.
The joint were flooded with hide glue.

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I was interested to see if the handles were original (pretty sure they were).
Looks like they have never been removed.

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One of the hinges broke while I was freeing it up. There was a lot of old fatigue.

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I'm going to have a go at welding it. A small neat weld with a bit of clean up.
Any gotchas?
Is there a better way?

I'll never be able to source another hinge like this.
I can have one made if it comes to that.

[Canisbellum]

Some holiday down time has allowed me back into the shed. There's a spot for the Kauri trunk in the house now.

The top has had it's first few coats of polish and I'll call it done for now.

Before ...

1.jpg

After ...

2.jpg

I didn't really want to knock this trunk apart, so I'll fix up some of the loose joints separately.

Some problem areas

6.jpg7.jpg

I may set some bow tie keys in the case for this split

8.jpg

The first of the repairs are underway.
I cleaned out the joints with a card scraper and washed them out with water.
The joint were flooded with hide glue.

9.jpg

I was interested to see if the handles were original (pretty sure they were).
Looks like they have never been removed.

3.jpg4.jpg

One of the hinges broke while I was freeing it up. There was a lot of old fatigue.

10.jpg11.jpg

I'm going to have a go at welding it. A small neat weld with a bit of clean up.
Any gotchas?
Is there a better way?

I'll never be able to source another hinge like this.
I can have one made if it comes to that.

Silver solder or Braze it. Much less heat.

[Thumbthumper]

Silver solder or Braze it. Much less heat.

I've only ever used an arc arrangement.

I have access to a MAP torch, I'll do some research on brazing it.

[auscab]

If you were to braze it you would have to put it back together around the pin and braze the broken crack only . How could you do that without the silver solder going to far and running around the pin ? That's what silver solder likes to do , go for its life and fill the lot .

Then on the other hand if you heated and straightened out the broken part . Then silver soldered it , you couldn't heat it and bend it back around the pin . or even do it cold I think . Not possible . I think the silver would break .

Straightening it and welding is how I would do it . Then grind it back to original shape and heat and bend back around the pin . Arc is a bit strong for such a job but if you have the magic touch I bet it could be done .

Edit . I do remember a Jewelers trick for soldering , not sure I remember correctly .
If you don't want silver solder to flow or be barred form spots, then coat the parts where its not wanted with Yellow oxide.
Maybe try that.

Rob

[Canisbellum]

If you were to braze it you would have to put it back together around the pin and braze the broken crack only . How could you do that without the silver solder going to far and running around the pin ? That's what silver solder likes to do , go for its life and fill the lot .

Then on the other hand if you heated and straightened out the broken part . Then silver soldered it , you couldn't heat it and bend it back around the pin . or even do it cold I think . Not possible . I think the silver would break .

Straightening it and welding is how I would do it . Then grind it back to original shape and heat and bend back around the pin . Arc is a bit strong for such a job but if you have the magic touch I bet it could be done .

Edit . I do remember a Jewelers trick for soldering , not sure I remember correctly .
If you don't want silver solder to flow or be barred form spots, then coat the parts where its not wanted with Yellow oxide.
Maybe try that.

Rob

Done lots of brazing and that would be easy.
Braze it without the pin in and then drill the pin hole to clean it up.

[auscab]

Done lots of brazing and that would be easy.
Braze it without the pin in and then drill the pin hole to clean it up.

OK Good idea

[Thumbthumper]

Done lots of brazing and that would be easy.
Braze it without the pin in and then drill the pin hole to clean it up.

OK Good idea

I agree ... good idea.
Looks like I'm doing some brazing soon.
Should I braze the original seam as well as the break for extra strength?

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I found a visitor in my workshop scrap pile this morning.
After a catch, photo op and release, it was back to the trunk glue-up.

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