Food safe oil - polish?

[Drillit]

This is what I use for chopping boards: Food Grade Mineral Oil | Stella Food Grade Oils

$44 for 5L and $129 for 20L

On the page it blubs about FDA 21 CFR 172.878 which says this https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scrip...cfm?fr=172.878 and CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21

I'm not a scientist and haven't read these dense texts. But it does say quite clearly it is safe and considered safe to use for food items.

Its soaked in a massive plastic tub for 24 hours then left to drip dry on their side. It has fabulous hydrophobic qualities and repels stains pretty much permanently. A quick wipe with a little bottle of it once a week keeps the board looking nice.

Regarding above, the post says "Motor oil is now labeled in California as a carcinogen, and they warn against any skin contact. Mineral oil comes from the same crude oil source." I happen to know this means USED motor oil. As for "Mineral oil comes from the same crude oil source" so does an absolutely astounding number of products we eat, use, bathe in and apply. Crude oil derivatives have seemingly unlimited applications.

Interesting topic.

addendum/edit: to reduce my ignorance further I had a hunt around. Other than quite a few alarmist crackpots and mummy-bloggers there isn't too much general info (real) that isn't scientific in nature. I did however find this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minera...od_preparation

Hello Evanism,
I tend to agree. I use hospital grade paraffin from the Chemist and have never heard of it being unsafe. Furthermore, it is ingested by humans for medical problems, e.g constipation. Anyways interesting discussion. Drillit.

[Pagie]

Asbestos is a natural product.

[Robson Valley]

Asbestos and uranium are both natural and certainly not food safe finishes.

MinWax Tung Oil Protective Finish is food-safe, after the stuff had set up and polymerized.
Read the labels.
I use TOPF on all the dishes that I carve, hardwoods and soft woods.
4 coats is water-wet shiny-smooth for easy cleaning, too.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

The food-safe finish question is a Phoenix topic. It rises from the ashes, flys high and crashes, over and over. Perhaps the moderator could make a sticky for it? I think others have suggested this in the past.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

I use TOPF on all the dishes that I carve, hardwoods and soft woods.
4 coats is water-wet shiny-smooth for easy cleaning, too.

Hi RV, does that mean that you have abandoned your heating technique?

David

[Fumbler]

Wow, I wasn't going to comment but can't help myself. Ihope the next time someone asks this same question, which I guarantee will be asked within 3 months, I hope we don't get 16tonnes of biological warfare from the leftist camps.

[Robson Valley]

Oh but the left handed people are working in their right minds! You're loading 16 tons of #9.

The oven baking seems to work best for smallish wood pieces. The biggest piece I ever did was a birch dish, 1" x 5" x 14" to hold wet things beside the kitchen sink.
I painted that one with beeswax. Wound up with 3 heat treatments to get the wood hot enough to generate air bubbles in the melted wax. What a mess.

All other dishes were carved more as just wood carvings that got a finish just in case somebody needed a platter for sandwiches.
I've used birch, western red cedar (top quality fencepost) and a glue up of Yellow Cedar.
MinWax Tung Oil Protective Finish lends itself to the appearances that I was looking for.