Newby dovetail saw

[Heavansabove]

Please note there were some length errors in my first message (overall length listed as cutting length), now corrected. I was testing forum members - at least that is my story and I am sticking to it.

Cheers
Peter

[planemaker]

Finshed fitting hardback and saw plate to new handle. Next stage is shaping the edges of the handle.



Stewie.

[RayG]

Hi Stewie,

You have a real talent for design, that has to be one of the more interesting patterns I've seen.
The real test will come when you get to try it out and see how comfortable it is, I guess you've designed it for a 4 finger grip, rather than the traditional 3 finger grip.

I admit to being a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to handle patterns, so a unique design like this one, I find a bit challenging. But, I applaud and congratulate you on trying something new and different.

Can't wait to see it finished, and hear how it feels in use.

Regards
Ray

[planemaker]

Hi Stewie,

You have a real talent for design, that has to be one of the more interesting patterns I've seen.
The real test will come when you get to try it out and see how comfortable it is, I guess you've designed it for a 4 finger grip, rather than the traditional 3 finger grip.

I admit to being a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to handle patterns, so a unique design like this one, I find a bit challenging. But, I applaud and congratulate you on trying something new and different.

Can't wait to see it finished, and hear how it feels in use.

Regards
Ray

Thanks for the comments Ray. I do enjoy stretching the envelope when it comes to different designs. The definate thing I would do different next time is tomake it out of thicker stock. This one is 23mm. I would prefer it to be closer to 28mm. A bit more meat around the hand grip. Never mind. Was governed by what Jarrah was available. I intend to be rather bold when I start contouring of the edges so gosh knows how it will eventually look. Thats how I tend to work. Start of with the basic shape and let the creative side take over.

Wasn't overly wrapt in the Grammercy Saw Handle Rasp. Too coarse for my liking. Would have been much happier if it were available in 2 grades; coarse and fine. That way you could cut down the amount work required for final smoothing. Will send an email to Joel at TFWW to make suggestion.

By the way. What did you think of the modified spokeshave.!!!!! Can ya feel yourself sinking even further into the ablise of hand tool darkness.

Oh. Just another question I have been meaning to ask you. How many vintage backsaws do you have in your collection.!!!!!

Stewie.

[IanW]

I had this saw in mind for a while, and luckily, I got my new needle files just as the deluge started. So what better thing to do when marooned than make a saw?

Here's my first real go at 20 tpi - a 220 mm small saw. The handle is made from the last bit of useable Rock-oak BobL gave me. It's bewdiful stuff, Bob - easier to work with than our Eastern She-oak and the fine fiddleback in this piece is magic. I am pretty pleased with the saw; teeth nice & even, with decent gullets. I took my time, & set it very carefully & it cut perfectly, right off the file, which I don't always manage, I usually need at least a light wipe of a stone over one side or the other. The Somax set I use puts too much set on for this fine a pitch, but it's not too bad, & after the next sharpening it should be just the way I like it.

I was so pleased with myself (& still marooned) that I pulled out a small "scraps" saw that I wasn't happy with, filed off the 18 tpi done with the 'best' files I could get at the time, and recut a set of 20 tpi fangs on it. I even managed to re-use the same bit of paper template - what economy!

Of course, pride cometh before a fall - I went too quickly with this one, and had to joint & reform the teeth because I got a few 'cows & calves'. It also cut a little to the right off-file, but two light wipes over a fine stone & it's now cutting sweetly too.

As the caption says - I love these needle files & am kicking myself for taking so long to try them!

Cheers from squishy Brisbane...

[planemaker]

Hi Ian. Did you consider cutting a step into the hardback so they could seat lower down into the handle. It looks as though the top saw screws were the reason you kept the handle end so high on the 2 small saws.

Stewie.

[IanW]

Hi Ian. Did you consider cutting a step into the hardback so they could seat lower down into the handle. It looks as though the top saw screws were the reason you kept the handle end so high on the 2 small saws.

Stewie.

Actually Stewie, I made them that way quite deliberately. The reason was to keep the grip high so it doesn't project too far below the line of the teeth. It's a functional necessity with such small saws. I admit it does look a bit cranked-up in the picture, but it looks ok in the hand, and works fine, which is the main aim.

Cheers,

[kevjed]

I just love the line of your saws Ian. Lovely work, stunning form and I'm sure they cut a treat.
All the best Kevin

[IanW]

Hi Ian. Did you consider cutting a step into the hardback so they could seat lower down into the handle. It looks as though the top saw screws were the reason you kept the handle end so high on the 2 small saws.

Stewie.

Addendum - on re-reading my answer to your post, I realise I mis-understood your point, Stewie - apologies. Yes, you are right that if I sink the spine too far into the handle it will meet the screws. I have made a couple where the screw holes did hit the spine. The way I make my saws now is to add the spine last, for various reasons, one being so that I can snug it up to the handle. So if the screw holes went through it, that wouldn't be possble. It does mean having a bit of spine exposed as it runs into the handle. That doesn't bother me too much - looking at old saws, I see a lot of variation from some exposure to lots. I don't like the ide of cutting a bit of the spine out, as I feel you need full depth at that point, but I could be wrong, & it may make no difference. I guess I will have to try it on a saw, sometime, just to see!

Cheers,

[planemaker]

Addendum - on re-reading my answer to your post, I realise I mis-understood your point, Stewie - apologies. Yes, you are right that if I sink the spine too far into the handle it will meet the screws. I have made a couple where the screw holes did hit the spine. The way I make my saws now is to add the spine last, for various reasons, one being so that I can snug it up to the handle. So if the screw holes went through it, that wouldn't be possble. It does mean having a bit of spine exposed as it runs into the handle. That doesn't bother me too much - looking at old saws, I see a lot of variation from some exposure to lots. I don't like the ide of cutting a bit of the spine out, as I feel you need full depth at that point, but I could be wrong, & it may make no difference. I guess I will have to try it on a saw, sometime, just to see!

Cheers,

Hi Ian. I am sure you will be able to work it out just fine

Stewie.