No luck removing chuck

[morrisman]

I think the main issue is the spindle can not be held rigid enough to crack the rusty seal.
.

Yes that is the nub of the problem .... If I could hold the spindle tightly, stop it from turning , it would be a breeze removing the chuck hub/backing plate from the spindle .

I was going to copy the Clamp idea from the PC forum ,

How to Remove a Stuck Chuck -- Tutorial



eg, clamping a clamp onto the gear on the spindle end ( change gear end ) with a home made aluminium clamp with a long bar on it . The aluminium clamp digs into the gear teeth and grabs on .

I'd rather this lathe had a camlock for the chuck , but you cannot have everything !

The threaded spindle ( 2 and 3/4" 5 TPI ) end is rather long as PC wrote. It's a unusual setup but somebody on the PC antique forum said most of the early Hendey spindles ( this one is 1940 ) were threaded .MIKE

[Bryan]

Mike. You have a backplate that is very firmly affixed. Why not just leave it there and bolt whatever chucks you want to that? Use reverse without fear. Poor man's camlock.

[Steamwhisperer]

Surely locking the spindle is not required as you are trying to undo the backing plate from the locking collar. The spindle is just holding the whole lot up off the ground. You need to either lock the backing plate in position and undo the locking collar or lock the locking collar in position and undo the backing plate. The spindle just sits there.

Phil

[Pete F]

Mike I think the lever idea is a good one, but personally I'd be using it just to stop rotation, and attack the problem from the actual chuck end. The way the writer had the RHS under the jaw, is probably fine, after all, would I know, but to me I just don't like that sort of load being placed on the dovetails of the chuck. I wouldn't do it to one of my chucks anyway.

I really thought you had it this time. I was in Singapore at the time of posting and was so wrapped up in the whole thing I almost made myself late for work! With regards the heating, if you keep the spindle cool, you won't need to be so fussy with getting the plate hot quickly. Just my 2 cents, but I must admit I'm not as keen as the others on the oxy gear. My experience in situations like this is the flame gets a little hard to contain as it spreads sideways when it hits metal, if you go that route I'd be careful to try to protect the surfaces around the area from possible heat damage in case you get caught up in the moment and don't notice!

An alternative would be to keep the spindle as cool as possible while you're heating, that way the freeze spray can really do its job. Maybe crush up some ice, put it in a plastic bag and slide it down the bore? Some frozen peas in a zip-lock bag? I don't know, just anything that will help keep it cool while you're heating the business, that way the freeze can really shock it instead of trying to simply take a bunch of heat out.

This really IS a tight sucker isn't it. BTW (apart from not working in this instance) how did the new rattle gun work out for you, is the quality any good?

Pete

[SurfinNev]

No idea if this will help or not but take a look at the second and third pics here -

Headstock Spindle removal :: Set screw near belt picture by Disasterarea_photos - Photobucket

Nev

[morrisman]

hi Pete

The quality of the gun : Well, its your typical Chinese tool in terms of finish . But the little I've used it , so far, it does do what it's supposed to do .I feel that it wasn't a fair test for it, trying to undo a huge lump of chuck and the heavy back plate as well .

The sockets seem to be good enough , the largest is 38mm . Some of the 3/4" drive socket sets I've seen are more expensive than the tool + the sockets , so its a good deal really . I dont think there are any delicate parts likely to break on this tool ,unlike the air powered sheet steel nibblers, which seem to break all the time .

I am presently making the plate , with a large nut welded on its centre . This will be bolted to the hub / back plate in the 3 holes . I will then try the heat outside and cool the inner bore as you suggested .

I'm sure one of you chaps would sort this out in 5 minutes ..I'm only a bumbling amateur at this game

To be honest, it may not be rusted on and really stuck . It's just the size of it that's daunting . It isn't a little Hercus I am playing with . MIKE

[morrisman]

No idea if this will help or not but take a look at the second and third pics here -

Headstock Spindle removal :: Set screw near belt picture by Disasterarea_photos - Photobucket

Nev

Hi

That is a cone head model Hendey . Thanks anyway .MIKE

[morrisman]

Surely locking the spindle is not required as you are trying to undo the backing plate from the locking collar. The spindle is just holding the whole lot up off the ground. You need to either lock the backing plate in position and undo the locking collar or lock the locking collar in position and undo the backing plate. The spindle just sits there.

Phil

Hi Phil

The backing plate is screwed on to the spindle end ..there isn't any locking collar . Or maybe its just me not noticing these things

[Retromilling]

Yes that is the nub of the problem .... If I could hold the spindle tightly, stop it from turning , it would be a breeze removing the chuck hub/backing plate from the spindle .

I was going to copy the Clamp idea from the PC forum ,

How to Remove a Stuck Chuck -- Tutorial



eg, clamping a clamp onto the gear on the spindle end ( change gear end ) with a home made aluminium clamp with a long bar on it . The aluminium clamp digs into the gear teeth and grabs on .

I'd rather this lathe had a camlock for the chuck , but you cannot have everything !

The threaded spindle ( 2 and 3/4" 5 TPI ) end is rather long as PC wrote. It's a unusual setup but somebody on the PC antique forum said most of the early Hendey spindles ( this one is 1940 ) were threaded .MIKE

That is basicly what I was talking about and might work just as well . The only thing is it might bend the chuck jaw . So now that you have the chuck off why not just bolt a plate onto the backing collar that can either be the lever or the locking point . The dog vice shown on a long lever applied at the change gear end would simplify making the setup. However if you had to hit it with a big hammer I would prefer the lever to be on the chuck end with solid packing under the backing plate to take some off the blow weight off the bearings , it only needs to turn a fraction to break the seal and the rest will unscrew with leverage even if it is tight to the last thread . It is more difficult to support the spindle at the rear end .

[Steamwhisperer]

Hi Phil

The backing plate is screwed on to the spindle end ..there isn't any locking collar . Or maybe its just me not noticing these things

Hi Mike,
it's probably just me but when I saw the collar behind the backing plate with what looks like keyways I just (for some reason) thought that was the locking collar for a cone type mount. The collar is holding the chuck onto the taper. Can you see any thread on the spindle nose from the front of the backing plate? Did you get a 'C' spanner with the lathe to suit the collar?

Phil

[morrisman]

Hi Mike,
it's probably just me but when I saw the collar behind the backing plate with what looks like keyways I just (for some reason) thought that was the locking collar for a cone type mount. The collar is holding the chuck onto the taper. Can you see any thread on the spindle nose from the front of the backing plate? Did you get a 'C' spanner with the lathe to suit the collar?

Phil

Hi Phil

Yes , the big C spanner came with the lathe . But there isn't any obvious method of locking the spindle , so it's a pretty useless spanner ! That collar you see behind the hub, is on the headstock casting itself , it's a bearing retainer or something like that .

BTW the 3 long 1/2" socket head bolts holding the chuck to the hub, are BSW 12 tpi ..not UNC which is 13 tpi .

[Ueee]

Mike,
Is there a chance that the grooved part that the c spanner fits on and the backplate are seperate pieces and are locked against each other? It's an odd way to do it but it would mean safe reverse turning.

Ewan

[Stustoys]

Hi Mike,
I've just been thinking the same thing as Ewan. But bearing in mind I have no experience with threaded spindles on lathes of this size.

A few questions

The grooves that the C spanner goes into, do they appear more worn on one side than the other?

Does the C spanner have many hammer marks on the end of the handle?

In this picture the slot for the spanner appears to stop against the face, Would they do that if it was one piece?)
https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...uck-chuck3.jpg

Stuart

[Steamwhisperer]

[QUOTE=morrisman;1465088]Hi Phil

Yes , the big C spanner came with the lathe . But there isn't any obvious method of locking the spindle , so it's a pretty useless spanner ! That collar you see behind the hub, is on the headstock casting itself , it's a bearing retainer or something like that .
QUOTE]

Hi Mike have a closer look and you will find it is actually a locking collar with a gap between it and the headstock casting.This collar should be unscrewed towards the head stock and the backing plate/chuck/hub should be unscrewed, or if it is on a taper,moved/pushed, towards the tailstock.
Of course I could be wrong.
In one of your pics you can clearly see a gap between the collar and the headstock casting.
I can also pretty much guarantee the spanner wont be useless.

Phil

ps Hopefully the pic works.

[Retromilling]

I can see what steamwhisperer is saying and he could be right.
You could try moving the collar back towards the headstock and if it will move that may take some friction off the chuck backing plate . You will need to reinstall the chuck and block up a jaw to stop the spindle moving .