Searching for a foolproof finish

[Burnsy]

Thanks Scott. I am going to try it this afternoon with the kids on their tool boxes. Straight laquer is to stinky. Found some Turps so hopefully it should be enough. Anyone know about the metho?

[Chipman]

Thanks Scott. I am going to try it this afternoon with the kids on their tool boxes. Straight laquer is to stinky. Found some Turps so hopefully it should be enough. Anyone know about the metho?

Burnsy,

Only use Turps...not methylated spirits

Chipman

[Burnsy]

Thanks, ran out of turps so did the last three using half linseed half poly. Will be good to see the difference in them tomorrow to compare the effect the turps has.

[ciscokid]

Nice table, Wongo. Nicely built. Nicely finished. Much as been written over here (US) regarding the finish you employed. I went the easy route and just bought the Sam Maloof brand finish in a can from Woodcraft. It's great for bringing out the figuring in a piece and provides reasonable protection for minimal work.

[jackliveshere]

Hey Wongo,

Quick question on the finish mate; how important is the first step of sealing the timber with 1/2 poly 1/2 turps? I'm still pretty new to different types of finishing - what advantages does the sealing give you? Can you progress straight to the 1/3 mix instead of sealing first?

Your table looks awesome as well

Cheers,

Will

[Wongo]

Will,

The first coat without the oils is important. It raises and seals the grain, so you can sand the surface smooth. Using the oil mix as the first coat might not seal the grain properly.

[jackliveshere]

Thanks Wongo

[jackliveshere]

Hey Wongo one more question mate, do you sand or do anything between the coats of oil?

Cheers,

Will

[Wongo]

You sand the work piece after the sealer is dry but you don't sand between each coat of the oil mix.

[cadeuceus]

at the risk of being the butt of many jokes - has anyone used cabots gel clear for varnishing pine? it is a thick gel consistency and is brushed on or wiped on and because of the consistency does not run extensively. it is clear but gives a slight yellow tinge that darkens with repeated applications. Care must be taken to not lather it on or the wood appears too plastic, but it seems to be easy to apply covers the wood nicely for kids toys. Any thoughts?

[zelk]

at the risk of being the butt of many jokes - has anyone used cabots gel clear for varnishing pine? it is a thick gel consistency and is brushed on or wiped on and because of the consistency does not run extensively. it is clear but gives a slight yellow tinge that darkens with repeated applications. Care must be taken to not lather it on or the wood appears too plastic, but it seems to be easy to apply covers the wood nicely for kids toys. Any thoughts?

For large surfaces I would not recommend it as it does not flow as well as the liquid form and produces an inconsistent thickness of coating.

Zelk

[cadeuceus]

Thanks Zelk, i agree with the use on large items, but i make toys for kids and so the maximum size is still small.

[Eldanos of KDM]

Hey Wongo,
A few quick questions mate as your recipe interets me greatly!
i)Do I repeat the sealing process 2-3 times? Or just the poly and oil mix?
ii) Are you using 2 pack Polyurethane?
iii)And this may be a silly questions, but do you have any problems mixing the oils and polyurethane together?

Thanks!!

[Wongo]

i) 1 coat of sealer then 5-6 coats of oil/poly mix
ii) No. I always use Estapol oil based poly. To get a semi gloss finish, I use the estapol gloss. To get a low sheen finish, I use the estapol satin.
iii) Never


Good luck

[Eldanos of KDM]

i) 1 coat of sealer then 5-6 coats of oil/poly mix
ii) No. I always use Estapol oil based poly. To get a semi gloss finish, I use the estapol gloss. To get a low sheen finish, I use the estapol satin.
iii) Never


Good luck

Cheers!