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Results 31 to 45 of 440
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8th April 2014, 01:08 AM #31
Looking great! Nice looking gears. If you only had a CNC router, it would be a snap!
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8th April 2014, 10:33 AM #32
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Hi,
Even though I said I was slow and tedious, I am enjoying actually manually playing with the wood and being involved with it. The only downside is that by manually cutting each of the gear teeth the tooth profiles are not all clones of each other some minor differences. I a very happy with it anyway. The gears mesh well together when rotated around each other. Thanks for our comment.
Keith
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8th April 2014, 02:04 PM #33
This guy should be able to provide you with whatever blade you need. Just tell him the length, width, and TPI.
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8th April 2014, 05:58 PM #34
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8th April 2014, 06:01 PM #35
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6 hours work today on idler gear. Good I am not on an hourly rate.
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9th April 2014, 12:19 AM #36
Ah, I don't even think I could do that nice on a band saw!
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9th April 2014, 08:34 AM #37
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10th April 2014, 06:35 PM #38
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Been working on the 2nd drive wheel gear. Now started the blank for the 2nd drive wheel.
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11th April 2014, 06:25 PM #39
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Hi All,
Worked on 2nd drive wheel today. Fitted spacers to back of 2nd gear to make sure there is no fouling of gears in mesh.
Keith
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11th April 2014, 09:51 PM #40
Nice job on the gears Keith. Did you use a bench pin to cut them out with the coping saw?
Bret
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12th April 2014, 08:54 AM #41
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Hi Bret,
Thanks for your comments. Not sure what a bench pin is. I made up a drawing of gears and glued this to pine blank. I used this as my template. I used engineers bench vice to hold the blank. I made up aluminium jaw protectors so I wouldn't damage the timber in the jaws. I then cut out tooth form with coping saw. I used various grade files and sand paper to finish tooth form. Used previously made gears to check the gears meshed correctly. One more gear to go. 2 wheels and then the interesting part begins. Getting it to look like a locomotive.
Keith
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12th April 2014, 10:18 AM #42
Sounds like you have a good setup. A bench pin is mounted to your bench and then you lay your piece on top and it has a v area cut that gives clearance for the saw. It is very useful for very delicate pieces or thin pieces of wood, brass, etc. I made one to cut thin pieces of wood to shape. The thing I like about it is you don't have to clamp the piece you are working on and the saw moves in a vertical plane so you have more control.
Here is one I made out of 3/4" plywood. I thought you might find it useful.
Here is a thin piece of stock I am cutting to make one of the brackets to hold the front hairpins for the 32' Ford.
Bret
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12th April 2014, 02:10 PM #43
Skwair2rownd
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Beautiful job on the gears Kieth!!!
You have ste the bar very high indeed when it comes to standards of fit and finish!!
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12th April 2014, 03:10 PM #44
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12th April 2014, 05:31 PM #45
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