HENDEY is here

[morrisman]

DON'T engage the back gear, unless you want broken teeth. Giving the spanner a decisive blow might be the best way.

OK Bryan , hitting might work. But what is the best gear .. or is it better to leave the gear box in neutral to avoid damage to teeth ?

I have removed stuck items eg harmonic balancer nuts on car engines , by hitting hard on a long bar .

MIKE

[Bryan]

I don't really know Mike. My exp with threaded spindles applies to one chinese bench lathe, so may not be relevant. If you search for 'stuck chuck' you will find a thread about that. The Antiques forum on PM is probably your best source for Hendey info.

[mmgarwood]

Mike and Peter,

Congratulations to both on those lovely lathes. More photos please as things get operational....

Michael

[morrisman]

yes pics coming .......

Made some progress . I have exposed the gear on the end of the spindle . Now, i have something to grip . My plan is to make a spanner to slide over the gear , thus , holding it while the chuck is removed .

I will Use a 90mm section of pipe ( the gear is about that diam. ) , and cut 4 slots into it , weld 4 teeth in . Weld a bar across the end and that will do . I am going down the conservative road ...

[Stustoys]

Hi Mike,
What about putting a block of wood between "A large tool" and the back way, put the lathe in the lowest gear and turn the veebelts gently* by hand backwards?
Not sure I like your spanner onto the change gear idea.

Stuart

*I say gently because at 18 rpm there is a lot of reduction in there.

[morrisman]

Hi Mike,
What about putting a block of wood between "A large tool" and the back way, put the lathe in the lowest gear and turn the veebelts gently* by hand backwards?
Not sure I like your spanner onto the change gear idea.

Stuart

*I say gently because at 18 rpm there is a lot of reduction in there.

Ok Stuart.

It's not easy to explain it But that gear I am gripping is on the end of the spindle itself , it isn't a change gear , it is pressed onto the spindle end . the spanner will slot over that gear and hold it .

What does your LARGE TOOL grip onto ?

Mike

[Stustoys]

Hi Mike,
Isn't the gear you are talking about the first gear in the change gear drive train? The driver(?)
The "large tool" I was talking about is the one you mentioned in post 29(maybe I missunderstood). If that doesnt work you can lock something in the jaws or cut a piece of wood to fit between the side of one jaw and the back way.

Stuart

You have some not nice weather on the way!

[morrisman]

Hi Mike,
Isn't the gear you are talking about the first gear in the change gear drive train? The driver(?)
The "large tool" I was talking about is the one you mentioned in post 29(maybe I missunderstood). If that doesnt work you can lock something in the jaws or cut a piece of wood to fit between the side of one jaw and the back way.

Stuart

You have some not nice weather on the way!

Ok better cover things up

I will sort it out one way or another

[Gavin Newman]

yes pics coming .......

Made some progress . I have exposed the gear on the end of the spindle . Now, i have something to grip . My plan is to make a spanner to slide over the gear , thus , holding it while the chuck is removed .

I will Use a 90mm section of pipe ( the gear is about that diam. ) , and cut 4 slots into it , weld 4 teeth in . Weld a bar across the end and that will do . I am going down the conservative road ...

What about an expanding plug / mandrel to go into the rear of the spindle bore with a lever attached to that? Even if it slips a small amount the rear part of the bore is not precision finished on any lathe I've used..

[Ueee]

Mike,
Have you tried puting it in the lowest gear, taking up any backlash and giving the spanner a good yank? Or you could take it out of gear, put a lever of some sort in the chuck, push the lever back and then sharply pull it forward? This just relies on the momentum of the spindle and I find works well.
We only used to have keyed chuck drills where I did my apprenticeship and we used to use the same technique all the time, we never used chuck keys.

Ewan

[morrisman]

Stuart

it took me a minute to visualise your idea ....

here it is .BTW very good idea . tremendous leverage happenning with gearbox in low low gear

Just neds some gentle heat on the back plate and it will come free

it hasnt moved yet , but it will

[Bryan]

.BTW very good idea . tremendous leverage happenning with gearbox in low low gear

Yes, more than enough leverage to break gears! I think you've misunderstood. Don't try to do this under power.

[Greg Q]

I do believe that impulse is the key to this problem...hitting the chuck with a large, sharp rotational force that will overcome the inertia of the stationary spindle. By that of course I mean hitting some kind of long armed tool on the chuck as opposed to the chuck itself. I am reminded of the advise that you always do more damage with small hammers.

The other alernative approach that I might take would be to fashion something to lock into the spindle with a stout nut on the end. With such an arrangement you could lock the chuck from turning and use a pneumatic wrench to turn the spindle off the chuck. Zero torque, all impulse. If it works for tyre shop monkeys surely it'd work on a machine tool.

[Log]

This is a decent lathe so I'd presume all the gears are steel.

Have you tried the spanner out the front then bump down on the spanner with a BIG hammer, think sledge,. Big hammers are better because they have good follow through(ok, inertia) and you won't have to swing fast like with a small hammer, small hammers just don't do as well.

Unless the chuck is extremely stuck you shouldn't have to heat the backing plate either.

Cheers.

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

[.RC.]

Is it a screw thread or a US long nose spindle taper? http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page9.html