Oil but glossy plz help

[Sturdee]

I use the Minwax Antique oil. It's a wipe on finish similar method to their Wipe on Poly. Whilst it darkens the finish slightly about three coats gives a really nice finish. The more coats the higher the gloss and after the first coat it doesn't darken the timber anymore.

It's also a lot cheaper then the Kunos oils as last year I only paid about $ 30 for a litre can from Carrolls.


Peter.

[section1]

Whose Carollis oh never mind I got it. I haven't seen antiqu oil on their website. You cannot achieve a gloss with antique oil it only give an eggshell appearance.

[section1]

I'vee spoken to Minwax this morning and they claim that the tung oil finish will leave a gloss look.

[LGS]

Carroll's Woodwork Supplies.

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

Yeah thanks I'm looking at it now

[LGS]

Section+1,
How about this? Tung Oil and White Spirit 1:1 and burnished into the timber, let it dry for a few hours, then 4 coats of Shellac. Sand at 400 between first and second coats, 800 between 2nd and 3rd, then 2000 over the top.
Shellac was one I bought at Masters about 8 months ago and it still is easy to use and works well. Just apply with a cotton cloth, let dry for 30 minutes or thereabouts and you are finished (so to speak) in 2 hours. Hard, glossy and smooth as..! You could just use Shellac, but the Tung Oil underneath pops the grain beautifully.

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

That look you got there I'm already acheiving but that's not what after.

[section1]

I guess the closest thing to a description I could give is a finished piece on a lathe that's the look I'm after

[section1]

Well here is a sample of Livos of what it looks like I think the pictures don't justify the actual real look but it's close. I think for it's ease of use and sheen you get it's not bad it's actually pleasant but getting a shine like they say well you can see for yourself even on the third coat it's not there.

I won't brush this product off as I do like it and can see potential in it I guess it's just a matter of playing with it till I can get a particular sheen with it. It's doesn't offer much protection actually but with their floor products I believe that would or atleast should. Could I or would I solely use this product, no I wouldn't I don't like how it darkened the western red ceder but I will give it a go now on some pine and see what the results are on that. I still think it's overly expensive and 250ml or $32 won't get you very far even though they claim you can do x number of square metres with it.

I don't know I'm mixed emotions with it, I know it's not the look I'm after but still it's nice. Maybe I'm asking too much just maybe it's not possible to acieve the effect I want, wood turners are lucky they can achieve any effect they want with minimal fuss and within minutes.

I don't know you be the judge on this one.

[section1]

Right now I'm experimenting with a tip I got from the US last night, I applied some sanding sealer and this morning I steel wooled and rubbed a coat of livos. Now I know this has bucklies chance of penetrating the timber but I want to see the film it will be create and whether or not it can be buffed to a high sheen. Right now it has a glossy appearance and that's mainly due to the sanding sealer, I was told that this particular chap only applies sanding sealer to his cabinets and nothing else, pretty much unconvential but why not I thought I'd give it a go.

So far the livos hasn't doesn't darkened the stain on the pine but I think it's due to the pine being a closed grain that not much of it is actually penetrating unlike the ceder being so thirsty. I will keep you up to date with my progress

[LGS]

Well, I guess I misunderstood you. That look you have on Western Red Cedar is as close to a satin sheen that I've seen. There's no gloss visible at all. When you talk about gloss, I assume you mean being able to see reflection in the finish. I don't see it there. I also wouldn't be trying to get a high gloss on Red Cedar. It's too porous and open grained. But if that's that you're after, then good on you for persisting.

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

It's nice but its not what I'm after and I'm really starting to believe that's it's not possible to achieve it by hand other than a lathe but I'm not giving up on it yet.

Here is the latest update I know it's quick as I'm writing I'm also working. The sanding sealer has done it's job I reckon I should of sanded it down properly rather than using the steel wool. The look it has I believe is Livos's maximum look you could achieve with it. This is only a first coat and I believe the sanding sealer has given the effect as if 5 or 6 coats of livos has been applied. I think this livos's maximum potential if applied raw.

I'll take a picture of it and post it in a few minutes.

Not a bad shortcut though I managed to get multiple coats in just one coat which would normally take a week to achieve. But sanidng the sealer down and leveling it prroperly would most probably give a very nice look.

[section1]

You can see the dramatic difference between the two I don't think the sanding sealer would work well on pine only because it is closed grain and the sealer being so thick unless you applied a very thin coat and I mean a smidgen of it or better yet diluting it down maybe 50/50 or even 60/40. But none the less it's proven to be a good tip with my addition of livos to it and definitely a time saver. The only downside to this is it's no longer food safe unless you have a fetish for sanding sealers. I now believe that it is possible to to get a glossy look using this method with Danish oil and the organ oil buffing oil I think I just may have come up with something after all. I can't wait to try and buff it and see exactly how much off a sheen I have created.

[LGS]

Sorry Section_1, but that is still just a semi gloss. You haven't shown us what the original finish you had looked like. If this is an improvement in gloss...
Whose Danish Oil are you using? have you tried hard burnishing the Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil, which is Tung Oil and Citrus Terbene? This is food safe and will give you an excellent result. Since you are talking about Organoil Buffing Oil, I assume that you haven't tried Hard Burnishing, just adding coats of oil. I've said this before,you can use Tung Oil diluted down 1:1 with White Spirit or as someone else correctly pointed out, Citrus Terbene. This is also food safe and radiant heat and liquid resistant. The total time for preparation and oiling takes about 2 hours and then you are finished AND you get a gloss finish. In fact if you use different mixes of sandpaper, you can vary the exact gloss of the finish.
Try it it might just work!

Regards,

Rob

[LGS]

At the end of the day, if you like it and it 's what you wanted to achieve, that's all that matters. Glad you got there in the end.

Regards,

Rob