Dovetail saw

[derekcohen]

I put the saws up on show so that we would have visuals of what is on offer. Hopefully someone will post the Adria.

All these saws are going to last several generations. All the blades are high quality and able to be resharpened. I'd say that the Veritas method of attaching the handle is probably the strongest of all, however I have no idea how long its composite (resin-fibre) back will last over the brass of the others.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Claw Hama]

Derek, what do people do with their saws that the usual handle and blade attachment isn't strong enough?. I'm not being a smart ar_e, thats a real question. Have you or anyone you know ever broken the handle on your saw of any type?
Dropping would be about the only reason I can think of.

[IanW]

.............. what do you folks who have had a play with them think about their longevity? Are we going to be able to hand these on to a grandson in 30 years?

Or Grand daughter! (tch! tch! watch your political correctness, or the moderators will pounce. )

Seriously. that is an issue I think a few of us have probably considered. Depending on the quality of the material & how well it's looked after (like not leaving it in the sun), it should last a generation or so.

Look on the bright side - if the plastic detriorates, it gives someone a challenge down the road figuring out some way to replace it. The easiest way I can think of is to just use the blade & fit a conventional brass spine & handle.

Cheers,

[Scribbly Gum]

All the saws being shown and discussed are quality saws.
It is my understanding that they are, at the very least, as good as, and most likely better than saws produced over 100 years ago.
And yet we have plenty of examples of 100 year old saws still going strong in many craftsmen's tool chests.
I suspect that today's saws will be around for a long time if they are respected and looked after. They are even less likely than the older saws to be all used up from constant re-sharpening, so may even last longer.
As for the Veritas dovetail saw having a plastic spine, well I'm not sure if the product used fits that category, but FWIW here is the description from their website:

Each saw has a spine molded from an advanced material incorporating stainless-steel powder for weight, glass fiber for stiffness, and a polymer resin binder. An over-molded blade and stainless-steel handle-mounting bolt creates a solid one-piece blade/spine/mount assembly. A single brass fastener secures the bubinga handle.

And while it is not the classic traditional look, it is mighty easy to hold and use, and to my eye at least, is not out of place on a hand-tool workbench.
We really are spoilt for choice these days aren't we.
Cheers from Tele Point
SG

[jimbur]

Spoiled for choice sums it up and yet I've seen an old craftsman use a junior hacksaw on some really fine joints when he couldn't lay his hands immediately on his dovetail saw!
By the way, I have the Pax 1776.
Cheers,
Jim

[jimbur]

Look on the bright side - if the plastic detriorates, it gives someone a challenge down the road figuring out some way to replace it. The easiest way I can think of is to just use the blade & fit a conventional brass spine & handle.

Cheers,

I have a plastic handled disston panel saw. It irks the traditionalist in me every time I use it but it cuts so well it stays in the tool chest!
Cheers,
Jim

[Claw Hama]

SG's hit the dowel on the head, all these saws work beautifuly and will as far as we know be heirlooms if looked after. It boils down to comfort and personal tast in looks.

[derekcohen]

Derek, what do people do with their saws that the usual handle and blade attachment isn't strong enough?. I'm not being a smart ar_e, thats a real question. Have you or anyone you know ever broken the handle on your saw of any type?
Dropping would be about the only reason I can think of.

Just through use the handles will loosen and then need to be tightened. Tightening split nuts is not easy - you need a special driver for each split nut (they are seldom interchangeable) and the design of the handle-blade connection will cause rocking, and this will eventually cause the handle to become loose. The Veritas is connected differently, much like the tote of a handplane. The design of the Veritas not only is the easiest to tighten, but has the most solid connection.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Claw Hama]

Thanks Derek, have only ever had to just nip up my handles a whisker, can see how it may become an issue though.

[Blue-deviled]

I put the saws up on show so that we would have visuals of what is on offer. Hopefully someone will post the Adria.

All these saws are going to last several generations. All the blades are high quality and able to be resharpened. I'd say that the Veritas method of attaching the handle is probably the strongest of all, however I have no idea how long its composite (resin-fibre) back will last over the brass of the others.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'll pop some Adria photos on as soon as I've taken some (and work out how to post 'em).

[Horaldic]

I was just reading the new posts. I am thinking that the steel:brass electrolytic reaction of traditional style saws is just as likely to be an issue as decomposition of the composite resin on those manufactured by Veritas.

I think I'll go and have a look at the saws somewhere like Carbatec where I can view and sample serveral styles side by side. I've found that the grip and feel of a tool can be just as important as the specs you read.

[Blue-deviled]

Here's some poorly executed of my Adria dovetail saw in unatural lighting, I suspect you'll get more joy from Eddir's (the maker) website.

cheers,
Gav

Adria Dovetail Saw - Make Precise Hand-Cut Dovetails

[Blue-deviled]

Here's some poorly executed of my Adria dovetail saw in unatural lighting, I suspect you'll get more joy from Eddir's (the maker) website.

cheers,
Gav

Adria Dovetail Saw - Make Precise Hand-Cut Dovetails

and poorely typed too,sorry: baby in one arm!

[IanW]

....... I am thinking that the steel:brass electrolytic reaction of traditional style saws is just as likely to be an issue as decomposition of the composite resin on those manufactured by Veritas.

Horaldic, Galvanic action between the dissimilar metals is a theoretical possibility, but in practice it would seem to be a relatively non-existent problem. I'm taking my cue from having removed & replaced several brass spines (to make it easier to clean up the blade) from quite old saws. In every case, the steel under the spine was almost pristine, while the exposed metal was quite rusted. The close fit of the spine pretty well excludes the essential element (water) as far as normal exposure goes, so unless you are in the habit of washing your back saws in a bucket of water, I reckon you can count on many generations of trouble-free marriage of brass & steel in this context.....

As Derek suggests, the LV material will probably be good for the lifetime of any user, so all one needs to decide is whether one is buying a saw for use now, or as an heirloom...

Cheers,

[jimbur]

Out of focus shot of my Pax 1776 with elm handle and a better one of my shoes