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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    Never used acrylic only glass or tiles or stone , would the acrylic scratch or mark up easily?

    I think the decision is based on visual preference and what is in keeping with the style you are running with
    From the Bunnies website:


    • More sizes and colours available through Special Orders
    • Contemporary high gloss finish
    • Scratch resistant and repairable
    • Custom colours available

    A Bellessi Splashback is the new way to add colour, functionality and durability to your home. It is perfect for use in kitchens, bathrooms and laundries or virtually on any vertical surface. Bellessi adds colour for life! It's lightweight, cost effective, easy to cut to size and install on site. Bellessi is an Australian made modified polymer panel with an extremely high gloss finish. Bellessi will transform your kitchen, bathroom or living areas into a vibrant modern environment. It is 50% lighter and 25 times more impact resistant than glass.



    I couldn't agree more Beardy, that's why the splashback, whatever material we (I mean SWMBO) choose, will be the last thing done on the reno.
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    The project manager (SWMBO) would prefer a larger tile, her reasoning is that there would be less grout to clean. Who am I to argue
    Attachment 483276

    Attachment 483277
    John

    Your kitchen has some very strong horizontal lines, emphasised by the coloured horizontal stripe.

    Me. I'd try for two rows of tiles below the stripe and one above -- but that infers you can get glazed tiles of the required size.
    I wouldn't use polished stone as it's, IMO, too hard to keep clean. SWMBO is forever spraying the stone bench tops here with a surface cleaner.

    IMO, the stripe really lifts the look of your original kitchen.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
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    We've got acrylic (not fitted by me - here when we turned up). It's great. I don't think I'd go back to tiles given the choice. Looks good, easy to clean, and it's hard wearing (no scratches on ours)

    IMG_1425.jpg

    Carries on around the other side of the window and stops the coffee machine splattering the walls, but you get the idea

  4. #34
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    Day 3.
    Old kitchen all gone and ready to start installing the new kitchen tomorrow.
    Found out today that because I have a gas cooktop only glass or tiles are permitted for use as splashback material.

    Kitchen Project 27.jpg


    Kitchen Project 28.jpg

    Wiring has been rerouted through the studs, much better.
    Kitchen Project 29.jpg
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernmc View Post
    We've got acrylic (not fitted by me - here when we turned up). It's great. I don't think I'd go back to tiles given the choice. Looks good, easy to clean, and it's hard wearing (no scratches on ours)

    IMG_1425.jpg

    Carries on around the other side of the window and stops the coffee machine splattering the walls, but you get the idea
    Interesting to see you have a gas cooktop, I have been told that you can't use acrylic splashbacks behind a gas cooktop.


    Splashbacks and gas

    Most installation requirements relating to splashbacks have to do with gas. When you consider that many splashbacks will be built behind ovens and other cooking implements, this is an important factor so you don’t burst a gas pipe or blow yourself up.
    Combustible splashbacks installed behind open-flame gas cooktops are carefully regulated in order to prevent them from catching or spreading fire. These regulations are specifically contained within the requiremens for the installation of gas appliances. Combustible materials generally include things like acrylic splashbacks, timber splashbacks and similarly susceptible materials. Many builders and designers believe (understandably) that glass and stainless steel are non-combustible materials; however both conduct heat fairly well, and if they're too close to a gas burner they can easily transfer heat to the unprotected substrate material or timber framing behind them - which as you can imagine may easily end in disaster. A clearance between the nearest gas burner to any combustible splashback of 200mm or more means the installation will be fine. Any less than 200mm and you will need your builder to do a little bit of work to make it safe. If you have a stainless steel or glass splashback, you'll need to install a fire resistant board up to the same distance (200mm from the nearest gas burner) behind the glass or stainless steel splashback that complies with the requirements of AS 5601/AG 601 Gas Installations, Appendix C substrate. There are exceptions to this rule - if clear documentation can be supplied that demonstrates that the fixing method will ensure that the temperature of the combustible surface won't exceed 65º Celsius above ambient temperature during normal operation, then a fire resistant board isn't necessary.
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  6. #36
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    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    Splashbacks and gas

    Most installation requirements relating to splashbacks have to do with gas. When you consider that many splashbacks will be built behind ovens and other cooking implements, this is an important factor so you don’t burst a gas pipe or blow yourself up.
    Combustible splashbacks installed behind open-flame gas cooktops are carefully regulated in order to prevent them from catching or spreading fire. These regulations are specifically contained within the requiremens for the installation of gas appliances. Combustible materials generally include things like acrylic splashbacks, timber splashbacks and similarly susceptible materials. Many builders and designers believe (understandably) that glass and stainless steel are non-combustible materials; however both conduct heat fairly well, and if they're too close to a gas burner they can easily transfer heat to the unprotected substrate material or timber framing behind them - which as you can imagine may easily end in disaster. A clearance between the nearest gas burner to any combustible splashback of 200mm or more means the installation will be fine. Any less than 200mm and you will need your builder to do a little bit of work to make it safe. If you have a stainless steel or glass splashback, you'll need to install a fire resistant board up to the same distance (200mm from the nearest gas burner) behind the glass or stainless steel splashback that complies with the requirements of AS 5601/AG 601 Gas Installations, Appendix C substrate. There are exceptions to this rule - if clear documentation can be supplied that demonstrates that the fixing method will ensure that the temperature of the combustible surface won't exceed 65º Celsius above ambient temperature during normal operation, then a fire resistant board isn't necessary.
    so the issue is about achieving 200 mm clearance from the closest gas burner. Perhaps Bernmc has the required 200 mm clearance, meaning his "potentially" combustible splash back is OK?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    Day 3.
    Old kitchen all gone and ready to start installing the new kitchen tomorrow.

    Kitchen Project 28.jpg

    Wiring has been rerouted through the studs, much better.
    two, possibly three, potential "gotcha" issues I can see.

    1. does the new cabinetry exactly match the colour of the pelmet you have left in the ceiling? Me thinks it's unlikely.

    2. do the new overhead cupboards exactly meet with the pelmet? IMO this is critical to the amount of work required on the ceiling.

    3. when do you intend repairing / re-sheeting the walls. Kitchens I've seen installed were into spaces where the walls were fully intact. Fixing the walls will require disconnecting the power to the ensuite.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    San Antonio, Texas, USA
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    Another thought for this stage: Do you want more, relocated or different lumieres or electrical outlets? Under cabinet lights?
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  9. #39
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    One thing I always do at this stage John is replace all the plasterboard, do all the patching, it’s easier now rather than bending over the cabinets. And go around afterwards and seal up everywhere with no more gaps. This gives the cockroaches and other critters less places to come through the walls and in under and inside the cabinets. Pay particular attention to holes through the bottom plate, where wires or gas lines come through, this is a common spot for pest egress.

  10. #40
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    Newcastle
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    Interesting to see you have a gas cooktop, I have been told that you can't use acrylic splashbacks behind a gas cooktop.
    Aint nuttin' compliant about this house. Built, reno'd and re-reno'd since the sixties, there's a hodgepodge of construction and standards. And non-standards.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    two, possibly three, potential "gotcha" issues I can see.

    1. does the new cabinetry exactly match the colour of the pelmet you have left in the ceiling? Me thinks it's unlikely.

    2. do the new overhead cupboards exactly meet with the pelmet? IMO this is critical to the amount of work required on the ceiling.

    3. when do you intend repairing / re-sheeting the walls. Kitchens I've seen installed were into spaces where the walls were fully intact. Fixing the walls will require disconnecting the power to the ensuite.
    1. & 2. The pelmet and cornice work is going to be replaced.
    3. Not sure what you mean by having to disconnect power to the ensuite. The power will be isolated at the mains while electrical work is being carried out.

    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    Another thought for this stage: Do you want more, relocated or different lumieres or electrical outlets? Under cabinet lights?
    There are sufficient power outlets already installed. Lighting is all good.

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    One thing I always do at this stage John is replace all the plasterboard, do all the patching, it’s easier now rather than bending over the cabinets. And go around afterwards and seal up everywhere with no more gaps. This gives the cockroaches and other critters less places to come through the walls and in under and inside the cabinets. Pay particular attention to holes through the bottom plate, where wires or gas lines come through, this is a common spot for pest egress.
    I was going to plaster the walls after the cabinets were installed, but you have given me food for thought. I'll reassess my plan of attack after the kitchen arrives this morning.
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  12. #42
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    Thank you all for the input so far, it has been greatly appreciated.
    In past kitchen reno's I have always struggled with connecting the sink to the waste pipe. For some reason there never seems to be exactly the right combo of PVC fittings available. This time I think that I will purchase the fittings and locate the sink to suit. I can always buy a couple of different combo's and return what I don't use.

    I believe that I will have to cut off the waste pipe below the sleeve to facilitate fitting the cupboard, then fit another sleeve and extend the waste pipe again.
    Kitchen Project 30.jpg
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    3. Not sure what you mean by having to disconnect power to the ensuite. The power will be isolated at the mains while electrical work is being carried out.

    isolating the power at the mains is what I meant

    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    I was going to plaster the walls after the cabinets were installed, but you have given me food for thought. I'll reassess my plan of attack after the kitchen arrives this morning.
    RB is on the money.
    Do the plaster work before the cabinets are installed, while access is easy.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    One thing I always do at this stage John is replace all the plasterboard, do all the patching, it’s easier now rather than bending over the cabinets. And go around afterwards and seal up everywhere with no more gaps. This gives the cockroaches and other critters less places to come through the walls and in under and inside the cabinets. Pay particular attention to holes through the bottom plate, where wires or gas lines come through, this is a common spot for pest egress.
    Call me paranoid/over cautious, but I just spent a small fortune getting other dodgy wiring that was done by the previous owner fixed. If we were ever to have a fire in the house the insurance company would use any non compliant issues to reject a claim, I don't want to give them any ammo.
    To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional

    Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.

    What could possibly go wrong.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy John View Post
    Call me paranoid/over cautious, but I just spent a small fortune getting other dodgy wiring that was done by the previous owner fixed. If we were ever to have a fire in the house the insurance company would use any non compliant issues to reject a claim, I don't want to give them any ammo.
    I fail to see how closing pest entry points will give your insurance company any reason to reject a claim. If anything it’s lessening the likelihood of rodents getting in and chewing the cables, a major cause of electrical problems and cause of fires. Do what you like.

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