brick piers??????

[echnidna]

Bend over and bow, saying very nicely , yes sir.

I've bin there done that too, these City Slickers got no idea of the bush.

Though you can bamboozle them sometimes if yer diplomatic

[bingoshelley]

I assume the building inspector wants a 600 x 600 footing 1 metre deep

he hasnt actually said the width as we didnt know at the time what material we were using .and you are very right about country inspecters he is 85 yrs old and so laid back its frightening seeing as im responsible for this house for a long time when we sell i dont want to cut too many corners.not safety ones anyway.what strenghth of concrete would i need to fill the holes?and how do i work out the amount to order thx

[echnidna]

Tis so long since I've done a foundation I've forgotten the concrete grade needed.

Volume = Quantity x length x width a depth

Volume = 1 hole x .6 x .6 x 1 metre = .36 cubic metres per 1 footing

[bingoshelley]

Tis so long since I've done a foundation I've forgotten the concrete grade needed.

Volume = Quantity x length x width a depth

Volume = 1 hole x .6 x .6 x 1 metre = .36 cubic metres per 1 footing

thx for that i just got quoted $182.00 +gst per cubic mtr of concrete delivered 30km one way.seemed a bit high to me but not sure???

[ausdesign]

If you're referring to brick 'pillars' then the footing size is worked out in relation to the load it's carrying. i.e. roof type, roof area, single storey etc. I would engage a structural engineer to do the calc's.
The soil type only relates to the founding depth not the size of the pad.

[silentC]

$182.00 +gst per cubic mtr of concrete delivered 30km one way

$200 per cube is about right.

We did an O/B job too and half of it is on brick piers, reactive clay soil.

The engineer's design included specs for brick pier footings. I'd suggest you hire an engineer - as it will make a lot of these things easier for you. You can design some things off span tables but I had engineering detail for strip footings, pier footings, retaining walls and bracing/tie-down for the frame. Cost me about $1800 but covered my backside and removed the guess work.

[bingoshelley]

$200 per cube is about right.

We did an O/B job too and half of it is on brick piers, reactive clay soil.

The engineer's design included specs for brick pier footings. I'd suggest you hire an engineer - as it will make a lot of these things easier for you. You can design some things off span tables but I had engineering detail for strip footings, pier footings, retaining walls and bracing/tie-down for the frame. Cost me about $1800 but covered my backside and removed the guess work.

Thx for that we will be using all brick piers i was quoted 650 for the engineer to design footings but my architect has said she will speak to her engineer mate and put it in the plans for me all up she is only charging me 900 so im pretty lucky with that side of things i just wanted a heads up so i knew what to expect ive been told so many different things for the foundation and everyone has their own opinion foundations are a nightmare will be glad when their finished rest of house will be a breeze lol

[silentC]

Just keep in mind that as the O/B you are responsible for the building and if you sell it before the warranty period runs out, you have to cover it for the new owner (7 years in NSW). A lot of this engineering stuff is just to cover yourself in the event of something going wrong down the track. Make sure that anything structural is ultimately certified by someone qualified to do so. If you're working off span tables for floor framing or whatever, you're covered by the manufacturer - but if you're queried on your footings "the architect had a yak with the engineer" might not have any legal standing. It needs to be on paper and signed by someone with a license number or whatever.

For example, we had to make a bit of a change to the footings from the original engineering detail. I paid him $200 to come out and inspect it and write me a letter saying the change was acceptable. That goes in the file with the original details and covers me in case something goes wrong. Stops him being able to say "that's not how I specified it".

People don't think things will go wrong and it's all nice and rosy with architects etc saying "she'll be right" until you have to go back to them and say "you stuffed up". Just something to keep in mind.

Unfortunately this often results in things being over-engineered to cover people's bums - but that's better than the opposite, which is what used to happen - under-engineering to save money. It's a bit like insurance, you might hate paying up front but you'll be glad you did if you ever have a problem.

[bingoshelley]

Just keep in mind that as the O/B you are responsible for the building and if you sell it before the warranty period runs out, you have to cover it for the new owner (7 years in NSW). A lot of this engineering stuff is just to cover yourself in the event of something going wrong down the track. Make sure that anything structural is ultimately certified by someone qualified to do so. If you're working off span tables for floor framing or whatever, you're covered by the manufacturer - but if you're queried on your footings "the architect had a yak with the engineer" might not have any legal standing. It needs to be on paper and signed by someone with a license number or whatever.

For example, we had to make a bit of a change to the footings from the original engineering detail. I paid him $200 to come out and inspect it and write me a letter saying the change was acceptable. That goes in the file with the original details and covers me in case something goes wrong. Stops him being able to say "that's not how I specified it".

People don't think things will go wrong and it's all nice and rosy with architects etc saying "she'll be right" until you have to go back to them and say "you stuffed up". Just something to keep in mind.

Unfortunately this often results in things being over-engineered to cover people's bums - but that's better than the opposite, which is what used to happen - under-engineering to save money. It's a bit like insurance, you might hate paying up front but you'll be glad you did if you ever have a problem.

thx for that i totally agree which is why were doing 1500 x1400 between piers using timber frame with al cladd and tin roof so way under the max allowable in the asa a little more money and time but the foundations need to be solid and 1800 spans can cause springy floors and problems later we plan on selling in 6mths after completion so we dont want problems coming up when a little more time and effort now at development stage could save heaps of future grief thx for your advice

[bingoshelley]

$200 per cube is about right.

We did an O/B job too and half of it is on brick piers, reactive clay soil.

The engineer's design included specs for brick pier footings. I'd suggest you hire an engineer - as it will make a lot of these things easier for you. You can design some things off span tables but I had engineering detail for strip footings, pier footings, retaining walls and bracing/tie-down for the frame. Cost me about $1800 but covered my backside and removed the guess work.

wouldnt it be cheaper to use bags of cement and do it ourselves with a mixer.i just worked out about 2500 for the concrete truck surely bags would be cheaper time isnt a problerm as we dont have enough to finish the house anyway so the longer it takes the more money we will have.

[silentC]

It's not really that much cheaper. A cubic metre of sand and gravel premix is about $80 and bags of cement about $6 each. You need 16 to make a cubic metre, so that's $96 + $80 = $176. Then you have to mix it yourself in small loads and it will take you forever. With the mini mix or whatever you use, you can tell them what MPA you need, it will turn up already mixed and you pour it in the holes. I reckon it's more than worth the $400 or so you will save.

[Brickie]

It's not really that much cheaper. A cubic metre of sand and gravel premix is about $80 and bags of cement about $6 each. You need 16 to make a cubic metre, so that's $96 + $80 = $176. Then you have to mix it yourself in small loads and it will take you forever. With the mini mix or whatever you use, you can tell them what MPA you need, it will turn up already mixed and you pour it in the holes. I reckon it's more than worth the $400 or so you will save.

Which is all fine if there is a concrete plant close by.


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[silentC]

See above: $182.00 +gst per cubic mtr of concrete delivered 30km one way

Which is cheap. I have to pay about $220 and I can see the plant from my front door.

[bingoshelley]

ok just spoke to the building inspecter he dosnt know anything about brick piers he wasnt even sure what bricks we had to use i had to explain how to tie down the bearers to the piers i think were in trouble i was hoping he could direct us down the right path.we just want the cheapest way to do the foundations we dont care how long it takes and were willing to work like dogs to do it but its been very frustrating trying to figure it out.i know a few people have said youll only save 400-500 but if thats how much we save then we have to do it as that 400-500 will pay for something else.the budget on this house is ridiculosly tight in fact its non existent practically so any small saving we need.hard work never killed anyone did it??? my hubby would say yes he wants a slab but he also dosnt want to face reality.maybe we should sell the land and go buy another dump and renovate again!!!!!!!!! nah we have to build we just have to figure out what way to do the foundations arghhhhhhhh

[silentC]

Personally I think you are setting yourself up for failure.

What you are taking on is a huge task with major and long running consequences, and you're doing it, as far as I can tell, with no experience and no direction. You can't rely on the forum to tell you how to build a house. There are literally hundreds of decisions you're going to have to make during the course of building - you have to make them on the spot and you will have to live with your decisions. If you make the wrong choice, it can end up costing you more money at best or having the whole place condemned and you liable for it at the worst.

Since you're intending to build a house and sell it straight away, my recommendation is that you approach a builder who is prepared to help you out under your owner builder permit and work on a 'consulting' basis. That way you can at least take advantage of his experience, even if you do most of the slog yourselves.

I can't think of a kind way to put this but I think you are completely unprepared to build a house and I for one would not touch it with a ten foot pole when it comes up for sale.

Maybe your best option would be to sell the land and walk away before you get yourself in too deep.

Don't take this the wrong way, I think building a house is a great experience but I think you will get yourself into serious trouble if you proceed on your current trajectory.