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Thread: What is in Cabots Danish Oil
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12th December 2007, 03:59 PM #16
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12th December 2007, 04:07 PM #17
Arh but....
Look carefully & read between the lines....
Raw Linseed oil is classed as
NON HAZARDOUS ACCORDING TO CRITERIA OF WORKSAFE AUSTRALIA
NON-HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCE. NON-DANGEROUS GOODS. According to
the Criteria of NOHSC, and the ADG Code.It does have risks that have to be listed on the MSDS.
RISK
Contact with combustible material may cause fire.
Cumulative effects may result following exposure*.
May affect fertility*.
May possibly be harmful to the foetus/ embryo*.
* (limited evidence).
SAFETY
Keep away from combustible material.
Avoid exposure - obtain special instructions before use.
So, they can put Raw Lindseed oil in the mixture & include it in the bit that says
Ingredients determined not to be hazardous - to 100%
They don't have to tell you how much is in there....Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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12th December 2007, 07:07 PM #18Happy Feet
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I've got a really good idea!
a bit like asking direction and only a woman would do it!
I'll ring them and ask
Astrid
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12th December 2007, 07:20 PM #19Happy Feet
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BS
It does gell if you dont turn it upsidedown when about half full.
but mix the gell with good wax and it makes a cracking hard wax that buffs up beautifully and can be coloured with powders and it keeps a while.
This is great for a wax only finish.
Astrid
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13th December 2007, 12:15 AM #20
We recently had ACOHS redo our MSDS's and the Australian regulations call for a broad percentage to be used rather then an exact or close measurement. We sent in exact and it came back with figures so broad that I had to get them to refine them because it could put us over the limit for some countries with the amount of Turpentine used before it changed to another category of Dangerous goods.
An MSDS is basically a worst case scenario for what a product is or could be responsible for. Instructions for getting Traditional wax out of your eyes: Flush for 15 minutes with water. For getting it off your hands: flush with water.
Helllloooow. It's a freakin' wax..... insoluble in water, incompatible with water and extremely water resistant. That doesn't matter this is what the standards say and so that is why it's on the MSDS.
Most of the danish oils (and I'd hazard a guess, this includes Cabots), are basically really well watered down poly, mainly with turps but sometimes with kero or white spirits, (they're cheaper and yes here in Oz there is a difference between turps and white spirits) often with a little linseed oil added. The greatest money-spinner of all times for the paint companies because some are selling you about 80-90% thinners at ridiculous prices, of as much as 500% - 1000% markup.
Look at the price of 5 litres of DO then look at 5 lt of turps and a 500ml tin of Poly, that's just about what you're paying for. the turps is probably costing a big manufacturer around $3 for 5 lt the poly could be the dregs from their last brew, maybe 50c worth and add a few cents for linseed.
The good stuff is usually made with spar varnish and tung oil with the addition of a much smaller amount of mineral turps.
Have had a great recipe for it for years and even made a few test samples a few years ago which worker brilliantly, but refused to bring out something in competition with the best that was only an also ran. Much prefer to bring out one that was much better than the rest.
Sorry folks.... Rant off, time for bed.
PS I'm not happy with the way our MSDS's read but like most manufacturers you basically just have to live with it.
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15th December 2007, 03:42 AM #21Senior Member
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It could be Polyurethane?
Polyurethane, is a "synthetic polymer" although, there are many other synthetic polymers.
Polyurethane, would work with both the kerosene and mineral turpentine, the viscosity would depend on the the amount of solvents added to the polyurethane.
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15th December 2007, 10:18 AM #22
No lead in Kerosene or just not enough to list
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