fridge doesnt fit

[durwood]

This is similar to the router bit I used, with this you could put the MDF on top of the bench and just clamp it away from where the router needed to be.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ELITE-FLUSH-TRIM...QQcmdZViewItem


This guy's prices are great but he stings you on the postage to Australia.

[Dirty Doogie]

I can see it now - in a few weeks there will be post by Andrew asking for help with a kitchen reno ....Lol.

Andrew, cutting 50 mm off a fixed benchtop and cabinetry is going to be tricky me thinks. The potential for disaster (not to mention mess) is very great.

Maybe sell both fridges and buy a more suitable size as someone suggested is the safest option.

[Dirty Doogie]

OK - here is what I'd do -




Examine the kickboard - is it the type built into the cabinet - or does it clip onto legs fitted under the cabinet. If you have the leg type note where the leg is attached to the cabinet (carcass) . I suspect you may have to take the cabinet out to reposition the leg and cut the kickboard down as well. Remove the kickboard if it is a clip on type.

My experience tells me that if you need another 50mm width to fit the fridge in then you'd have to cut 75 mm off the cabinet. Fridges need an air space at the side to stop condensation and to stop strange noises being created when the compressor is going.

If you push a fridge hard up against kitchen cabinetry or a wall, all sorts of strange vibrations and buzzing can occur even in other rooms as vibration can be transmitted to metal plumbing under the sink if it is in the same block of cabinets.

So it may be that you need to cut more off the cabinet than you thought!

The approach I would take is to remove the cabinet before touching the benchtop. having the cabinet removed makes it easier to rebuild and easier to cut the benchtop.

Look inside the cabinet for screw heads holding the cabinet to its neighbour, holding the bench top down, holding cabinet to the wall. Take those screws out. If you've got adjustable legs wind the leg down a few millimeters. Cabinet should now move a little bit and the front of the benchtop should lift a millimeter or so at the end corner. If the cabinet can be moved out - have a beer!

If it can't - check for more screws. Check everywhere. If there are screws in the outside of the end panel (the ones I can see in the pic) take them out.

Before moving cabinet out cut a piece of timber to hold the end of the benchtop up.

If cabinet doesnt move then my plan is stuffed and I'll have to devise another.

Go and try it and report back...

Doog

[andrew29]

thought i'd report back and let you all know how the fridge reno went.

this is what happened.

1. prized the side of the unit off a bit so we could cut a bit off the kickboard and pull the side of the uniot off completely.
2. pulled the front and back facia boards off the screws we couldn't get at.
3. scored the benchtop with a straight edge and a tile scorer.
4. jigsawed the top with a straight edge, and finished the bit near the tiles with a hacksaw blade then a chisel.
5. cut down the door and the shelf.
6. put it all back together.

Its not 100% perfect but i'd put it at a 90%.

Thanks for all the advice and tips, they are much appreciated.