Results 16 to 21 of 21
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19th October 2006, 10:18 PM #16
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19th October 2006, 10:34 PM #17
To get the true strength of the full depth of the double beam, you need enough tensile/shear strength in the joint. Not sure if the glue would be enough. Gang nails would help, but are ugly. You can drill vertically through the two at regular intervals then bolt them together with say 12mm bolts - with glue, 500 centres should do it. Use cup head bolts, with the heads down, that way the nuts can be counter bored and hidden whilst the heads would look Ok.
Food for thought.Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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19th October 2006, 10:39 PM #18
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20th October 2006, 09:02 AM #19
Thanks Neil, that's exactly what I have done. The beam is up. I've bolted it through with 1/2" cup heads, nuts down. The reason I did that was a) so I wouldn't bang my knees on the bolt ends when I'm up there and b) in case I have to add the third length to the stack down the track. I can undo the nuts, pull the bolts out and replace with longer ones without having to disturb the ceiling.
It's up there and straight as a die at the moment, but I haven't hung anything off it yet.
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20th October 2006, 10:31 PM #20New Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 4
Silent C What is this joist span book you speak of and where can I get a copy?:confused:
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23rd October 2006, 09:59 AM #21
It's the Hyspan span tables. Download as a PDF from http://www.chhfuturebuild.com/WSMApa...0209-1,00.html
Note this is only for LVL. You'd have to refer to the NSW Framing Manual (or similar in your state) for standard timber span tables.
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