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Thread: Hard wax oil
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14th January 2019, 06:26 PM #16
Here's a photo. Two coats of rubbed in hard wax. Nil else done.
Lots more photos in my thread finale.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 6 Likes, 0 , 1homey thanked for this post
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14th January 2019, 06:44 PM #17
Fabulous Derek - I really dig how this product makes it look like timber! I had previously thought that the Matte would not be right for timber with figure and/or chatoyance, and that the Satin or Gloss product would be best in those cases. You have just confirmed that!
Photos are one thing, real life is another. Do you think it has brought up the grain as you would like?
I think for a desk with a computer monitor on it (just as an example) the Matte would be excellent as it would eliminate reflections from the monitor. Similarly for a piece that was under window light - the Matte actually allows you to see the timber, not the light reflection.
Your application method looks like it will work for a quick job, but I'm still concerned about how resistant to liquids it might be, being so thin. Can I encourage you to try a test on a board with 2-3 coats of roller application? (half a board rubbed, half rollered) Maybe do a wine test after two weeks of drying? The rolling may need cooler weather to enable the levelling to happen better.
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14th January 2019, 10:23 PM #18
Curious, do you spray water as you go up grits when sanding?
When I previously described Anton's and Whelan the Warehouse's technique of sanding with 600/800/1500 I meant to say it is used only to denib. Essentially just running sandpaper over the surface lightly once along the grain.
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14th January 2019, 11:29 PM #19
Spray water? Never.
Mostly, I plane or scrape a surface, and do not sand. However, some finishes benefit from sanding. The hardwax oils all recommend sanding to 120-240 grit. I went a little higher, to 400 grit. Going to 1500 grit may just end up burnishing the surface of the wood, and make adhesion problematic.
Since my boards are planed, sanding starts at 120, then 240, and finishing at 400 with Abranet mesh. The mesh lasts a long time, and I generally use the same disk through an entire piece.
Now all the hardwax oil manufacturers recommend thin coats. In fact, they ask that the applied coat is wiped off. So we are talking THIN coats of hardwax oil. There is absolutely no benefit in thicker coats - from what I hear, it just gets waxy and leaves marks. I experienced this when applying water-based poly using foam or hair brushes. I realised that a thin coat makes more sense. Multiple thin coats are better than a few thicker coats.
My kitchen was completed 3 years ago now. The finish still looks like new. I get a charge every time I look at the Hard Maple surfaces.
Take a look at the pics (I will post them shortly) of the coffee table, and tell me that this is a finish for a quick job?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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15th January 2019, 09:10 AM #20
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16th January 2019, 07:26 AM #21
I don't have much experience but have just finished a dining table with that same hard wax oil. The table was designed to look modern and I wanted something that left it looking as natural as possible, definitely didn't want a glass-like glossy finish.
It turned out amazing, I'm really happy with the result. It's only been a couple of weeks so I can't talk about longevity but so far so good.
The table is made from recycled Ironbark.
I talked to the guy at Timbecon and he suggested sanding to 120-150, doing two coats with whatever I want, sand with 800 very lightly just for dust between and then 1200 at the end, again just for dust removal. I followed the exact process and I'm very happy with the result.
Even the packaging says to avoid thick coats and to aim for coverage (30m2/l). When with a lot of rubbing, I couldn't get the advertised coverage (I got something like 20m2/l).
I used the Scotch Brite fine pad for rubbing it in, and really worked it hard into the timber. It took a while but I found it infinitely easier than trying to make a flawless finish with a brush.
It looks almost like raw wood, the finish just brought out the colour a bit, a little like wetting the wood.
If I was doing it again, the only thing I'd change is to go with a satin finish instead of matte, but this looks quite good too.
It's very expensive, comes out probably at double the standard poly but I do like the finish and it's really easy to apply.
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16th January 2019, 09:30 AM #22
Nice work igalic!
I have only used the roller method with this product and will certainly do some testing with rubbing it in. I wouldn't say the rolled coats were "thick" but "thicker". I was using a sample pot (100ml) so I had to work it around the surface quite a bit to make the coverage. Rubbing would certainly increase coverage if for no other reason than what is left in the roller after each coat.
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16th January 2019, 01:00 PM #23
That dining table looks great! I really like the setup with the tent. where do you get your ironbark?
You can probably put another coat of satin over it if you want a satin finish (I did evolution satin over polyx matt and it worked fine (and thats a different brand!)
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes, 0 , 0igalic thanked for this post
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16th January 2019, 01:08 PM #24
Hm didn't think of going over it with another satin coat, I might give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion
I recycle my timber, usually try to find bulk lots in Gumtree or eBay. It takes a lot of work but I enjoy the transformation and it does come out cheaper. Probably wouldn't do it if I was charging for the projects
This is the original timber. I don't think I'll ever work with Ironbark again
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16th January 2019, 02:41 PM #25
wow big difference. I always thought ironbark was a redder colour. it was worth the effort
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17th January 2019, 06:32 AM #26
It would be fun to learn it's actually some other kind of timber
It was sold to me as IronBark, and because it was in fairly poor shape (lots of cups, bows, twists and cracks), I got it fairly cheap. I wasn't specifically going after IronBark. I'm new to woodworking and especially to Australian timber, so I could be wrong.
It's definitely very very hard, blunted a lot of tools and set my table saw on fire (it also eats through sandpaper like crazy), but looking at images of IronBark, it does seem like it's more red. I found a few photos where it's light like this, so perhaps there's some variation.
But would appreciate knowing that this is something else if it is
Cheers,
Ivan
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17th January 2019, 07:56 AM #27
I did think it looked more like Blackbutt because I've not heard of blond Ironbark. Perhaps it might another of the blond species too, like Messmate, but my knowledge is limited.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes, 0 , 0igalic thanked for this post
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17th January 2019, 08:35 AM #28
Do you know what it was used for before it was demolished? Looked like it was used outdoors?
Along with blackbutt other common outdoor timbers in melb are yellow stringybark and silver top ash. I don't have the knowledge to be able to distinguish between them all though
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17th January 2019, 08:39 AM #29
Hi,
With regard to the timber, Red Ironbark is mostly a strong red colour. Grey Ironbark on the other hand can be a lighter red, or even a mix of red and pale to dark grey. and yes, both will give your tools a serious workout.
Regards,
Rob
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17th January 2019, 07:21 PM #30
My first thoughts were Blackbutt. With you saying that the edge went off the blades quickly reinforces that for me.
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