Kauri Trunk

**Thumbthumper** · 13th October 2016, 09:31 AM

Originally Posted by yvan

Hi Thumbthumper

Are the components of your rejuvenating brew mixed in equal volumes?
Also, do you mix separate brews for different tones of shellac?
I would like to try your brew to clean up a cedar chest of draws!

Much appreciated Yvan

As promised ...

Light cleaning mix

2 Parts weak shellac/metho mix (optional)
1 part boiled linseed oil
1 part pure gum turpentine
1 part cider (or brown) vinegar

Mix in a jar and shake often.
Lightly clean surface using 0000 steel wool.
Wipe surface regularly with a cloth.

I like to use the shellac mix to soften and blend the original polish if it is patchy.
But I have used it without when the original finish is fine as is.

**yvan** · 13th October 2016, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by Thumbthumper

As promised ...

Light cleaning mix

2 Parts weak shellac/metho mix (optional)
1 part boiled linseed oil
1 part pure gum turpentine
1 part cider (or brown) vinegar

Mix in a jar and shake often.
Lightly clean surface using 0000 steel wool.
Wipe surface regularly with a cloth.

I like to use the shellac mix to soften and blend the original polish if it is patchy.
But I have used it without when the original finish is fine as is.

TT

Thank you very much. Will try the mix.

Yvan

**Thumbthumper** · 17th October 2016, 09:28 AM

I made a run of molding on the weekend.

I don't think my colleague had used this plane before.
It needed a good sharpen and a tweak with the Dremel to tidy up the profile.
These big planes are a bear to push

Lots of wax and a touch up sharpen half way through.

I didn't have the luxury of being able to choose the perfect run of grain, so there was a bit of tear out that I had to scrape/sand away.

The profile was close enough.

1.jpg

I drew a striking line on the end of the plane in pencil to keep the angle correct and began the cut.

22.jpg

After some cursing and clean up, this was the result.

3.jpg

I cut it off with the bandsaw and stained it with some oxide to make sure it would match up okay.

4.jpg

I think it will work.

**Thumbthumper** · 24th October 2016, 09:12 AM

A small update.

I wanted to retain as much original molding as possible.

Here's one of the smashed bits that I decided to repair instead of replacing.
I built it up from pieces and planed it to shape.

1.jpg 2.jpg

Was a tricky thing to do, but after some light staining it should look fine.

**hiroller** · 1st November 2016, 09:06 AM

Nice work, looking forward to the end result.
It's a great find, what are the dimensions?

**Thumbthumper** · 2nd November 2016, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by hiroller

Nice work, looking forward to the end result.
It's a great find, what are the dimensions?

Thanks.

Metrically speaking, it's ...

850W x 520D x 540H

Perfect for the end of a bed.

**Thumbthumper** · 16th October 2017, 11:38 AM

Lots of commissions getting in the way of the Kauri trunk restoration.

I've had a bit of time to get stuck in again ..... then I found this cedar trunk at the local junk shop.
It has a fair bit of character!

1.jpg 2.jpg

It's missing the molding around the top and it's bottom skirting.
The front will be stunning when I either rejuvinate, or clean back the old polish.

3.jpg

It still has the original base boards that stink of sump oil.
I will try and reuse these after a good clean.

4.jpg

The candle box is interesting. It had a sliding lid held in place with a drawer lock.
I'll need to remake the lid and fit a replacement lock.

5.jpg

Nice zinc plated hinges

6.jpg

Because of the need to clean the base, and lattice head nails in all of the dovetails, I've knocked the entire trunk to bits.
I presumed the joints were all loose and digging the nails out wasn't an option.

7.jpg

I managed to source some old heavy cast hinges.
I also ordered handles from an ironmonger in the UK.

8.jpg

The cast handles will look a lot better than the finger pinching brass 1980's handles that came with the trunk.
The original handles would have looked very similar to these.

9.jpg 10.jpg

I've glued up a few splits and will reassemble the case very soon.

Should have two nice trunks to move into the house soon

**hiroller** · 16th October 2017, 12:16 PM

Nice score! Keen to see how that Kauri trunk turns out.
They should make a nice set.

**Xanthorrhoeas** · 16th October 2017, 05:57 PM

That cedar trunk looks like a beauty, it has lovely figure in it. Good find and great that it will be sensitively restored.

Could you give the contact for the ironmonger in the UK please? I have two old cedar blanket boxes with bracket feet and diamond escutcheons. One has the recess for two locks, but only one original lock, so I am searching for a close match.

David

**Thumbthumper** · 16th October 2017, 08:24 PM

Originally Posted by Xanthorrhoeas

Good find and great that it will be sensitively restored

It didn't feel that way when I was bashing it apart with a big hammer

11.jpg

Could you give the contact for the ironmonger in the UK please? I have two old cedar blanket boxes with bracket feet and diamond escutcheons. One has the recess for two locks, but only one original lock, so I am searching for a close match.

Here's where I got the handles (I'm going to buy more as they are very good) ...
They may have a website (not sure)

CAST IRON VINTAGE STYLE CHEST LIFTING PULL HANDLE TRUNK COFFER BLANKET BOX | eBay

I got the hinges from my FIL's big bucket of old stuff

I'm not sure they will have the locks that you're after, but good luck. You may have to search other sellers.

Looking forward to making the skirting probably with a single bead (love using my molding planes) and the molding around the top.

The best part will be the first coat of polish after cleaning down the old faded finish.

**Xanthorrhoeas** · 17th October 2017, 01:29 PM

Thanks for that. It is an interesting shop but unfortunately no old box locks there. I'll keep searching. Unfortunately all the cast iron box locks available on eBay and local suppliers seem to be different sizes and proportions to this one. If there is only one lock, and it is missing, I have in the past let in a piece of cedar and fitted a smaller replacement, but that doesn't look so good when you need to match another lock. I may eventually do that, but then again I might just leave the space vacant - after all, it is only visible on the rare occasions the lid is lifted.
David

**Thumbthumper** · 17th October 2017, 02:09 PM

Originally Posted by Xanthorrhoeas

Thanks for that. It is an interesting shop but unfortunately no old box locks there. I'll keep searching. Unfortunately all the cast iron box locks available on eBay and local suppliers seem to be different sizes and proportions to this one. If there is only one lock, and it is missing, I have in the past let in a piece of cedar and fitted a smaller replacement, but that doesn't look so good when you need to match another lock. I may eventually do that, but then again I might just leave the space vacant - after all, it is only visible on the rare occasions the lid is lifted.
David

While both of these trunks that I am working on have their original main locks, none have the male part that fits to the lid (staple?)

I have no real intention of locking them anyway and while the key sticking out (maybe with a tassle) may be cute, it would leave a fair mark on my shins

I have bought some quality cabinet furniture from this business ...
I notice they have chest locks in a couple of sizes.

Locks & Fittings : Watson Brass Fittings, Reproduction Antique Cabinet Hardware

**Xanthorrhoeas** · 18th October 2017, 10:30 AM

Yes, the staples often disappeared for some reason. I suspect they caught on clothing or hands when the box was opened and since we no longer have the Victorian obsession with locking every box and drawer in the house, the staples were simply removed and discarded.

Thanks for that link. The lock I need is 4 3/16 inch by 2 3/4 inch. The standard locks, as sold by Watson, are 4 inch by 2 1/4 inch. I actually purchased one of those but haven't bothered to fit it - the offset for the key is wrong too.

I agree with you about not locking them, and not having a key sticking out to damage one's shins. My interest in replacing the lock is solely because i don't like things to be incomplete - that empty rebate screams at me. But, since the box is really used as a plinth so it sits covered with a large turned bowl and some table lamps that I made, that means it is very rarely opened - only when searching for some long-lost item that may possibly be inside it!

**artme** · 20th October 2017, 09:33 AM

What agreat find!!!

Good to see you keeping it original!

Smell would have been a dead giveaway for Huon.

**Thumbthumper** · 21st October 2017, 06:03 PM

Been doing a bit of cleaning today.

I washed down the insides of the Cedar chest while it was apart.
I like to leave the original marking out lines. There were some pencil marks under the main lock and the candle box mortices.

1.jpg 2.jpg

The bottom boards needed a good scrub.
I decided to give them a good coat of shellac to try and seal the surface to prevent the oily smells.

3.jpg 4.jpg

Here's the board I will use for the skirting.
It has ready made patina. I'll just clean this and won't plane or scrape it.

5.jpg

I made a test drive with a couple of side beading molding planes on some scrap.
There's a 3/4" and a 1/2". I'll have to decide what sort of look I want around the base.

6.jpg

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