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Thread: Gifkins 1/4 inch collet
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30th May 2013, 02:17 PM #16
haha yes i just noticed this as i was looking around on the website. I will post up on here my cart contents before i purchase. At this stage i just want the new chuck and collets for the TRA001, i will get the MOF001 stuff later on.
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30th May 2013, 02:34 PM #17
Just beware, under the list of spares for the TRA001 is also the old style collet assemblies. The MOF001 and TRA001 take exactly the same chuck and collets.
Les
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30th May 2013, 02:48 PM #18
yeah i noticed that, so this is the same as my existing collet
Tool Spares Online. CHUCK ASSEMBLY 1/2"
where as this is the new style for MOF001 which is compatible with the TRA001
Tool Spares Online. COLLET ASSEMBLY 12MM
Yes? lol hope im on the right track
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30th May 2013, 03:52 PM #19
This is what i have in my cart now
new_collet.png
This should get my TRA up to new collet standards
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30th May 2013, 04:35 PM #20
That does not look right. What you need is the following:
Tool Spares Online. COLLET ASSY 1/2"
Tool Spares Online. COLLET ASSY 1/4"
and
Tool Spares Online. CHUCK BODY
The reason I say this is that 99% of router cutters sold in Australia is still Imperial sizes (1/2" and 1/4") which is NOT the same as the 6mm and 12mm cutters. These smaller shanks cannot take the imperial cutters and in the same way, you cannot put 6mm and 12mm cutters in the imperial collets.
These were listed under the MOF001 list of spares, but I have used the exact same chuck and collets to upgrade both my TRA001 and also my MOF001.
Hope this helps
Les
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30th May 2013, 04:57 PM #21
Collets
Hi,
Here is a picture of the first 2 pages of the latest hand book for the TRA001 ( bought last week.)
routcat0001.PDF It also shows what you could be stuck with if you buy in the wrong place.
RegardsHugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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30th May 2013, 05:32 PM #22
It is possible to use all 5 collets here in Aus if you have the cutters to match. Cutter shanks with 8mm is quite common especially if the Leigh jig is used. Festool also have a lot of 8mm and 12mm shank cutters. I would not be surprised if a few 6mm shank cutters are around, but these would be few. In fact one of our forum members picked up some bargain cutters on fleabay only to find they were 12mm shanks, He then purchased the 12mm Triton collet to be able to use the cutters.
However, we mainly use 1/2" and 1/4" shank cutters here in Aus.
Les
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30th May 2013, 06:08 PM #23
Hi,
Looks like Japan wins with the whole set of collets as standard, but I was not just referring to the collets but also the different voltages etc also all the plugs will vary.
RegardsHugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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31st May 2013, 10:16 AM #24
Great, I put it all in the cart to purchase and filled out all my details to only be presented with "
We're sorry, an internal error occurred that prevents the request to complete."
Winner!!!. Ill put the order through whenever their IT staff sort it out
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10th June 2013, 02:05 PM #25
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10th June 2013, 04:45 PM #26
Hi, I am posting what I have provided to Delbs. Not so much doco but rather a set of instructions.
The instructions that I followed is what "rayintheuk" one of our forum members provided way back in Oct 2009. The blokes name is Ray Girling and has provided many instructions about taking the router apart and assembling them.
Here is the set of instructions courtesy of Ray - It works as I have used it.
1) Remove the dust shrouds, if still fitted.
2) Completely remove both carbon motor brushes, noting their position and orientation for replacement.
3) Wind a suitable piece of string or light cord around the motor shaft so that when you pull it, it will revolve the shaft in the opposite direction to that of normal travel (see the arrow that indicates normal rotation on the base of the router for confirmation). **
4) Pull the string or cord just as you would to start a gyroscope and when the shaft is spinning, swiftly push in the spindle lock by hand. The shock should release and unwind the collet chuck assembly. If it didn't, spin the shaft faster.
5) Replace the collet chuck with the new style, winding on the upper part (with the three indent holes) as tight as you can by hand.
N.B: Do NOT try to tighten the whole assembly by using the wrench on an empty collet.
6) Plunge the router and mount a straight cutter in the ½" collet.
7) Replace the carbon brushes in their original orientation and fire up the router. Plunge the bit into a piece of scrap hardwood to ensure final tightening of the assembly.
8) Replace the dust shrouds if you use them.
** If you have an airline, you can use this instead of the string or cord. Just point it at the cooling fan (at step 3) above) to spin the shaft backwards. Don't go mad with the speed of rotation!
I have sent Ray a PM as a courtesy that I shared his instructions. He has been more than helpful regarding the Triton routers over the years.
I used the string to unwind the chuck ( what Ray refers to as the motor shaft). It took a few attempts because the string I had was weak. So a strong piece of string will make the job much easier.
Believe me, these collets are far superior to what you have on your router. Using the router becomes a pleasure and much safer and also ensuring no slippage of cutters to ruin the workpiece.
Oh, and you need to modify your spanner to fit the new collet. What I did was to file the my spanner to 24mm taking a little off on each side.
Woodcraft in the USA have a nifty spanner to fit the new collets. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/208...n-routers.aspx
Regards
Les
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11th June 2013, 11:37 PM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- sydney, au
- Posts
- 110
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14th June 2013, 09:36 AM #28
I have too ordered the new 1/" and 1/4" collet along with chuck body and mounting screws to attache to my kreg insert plate. Should be here soon enough yay!
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25th June 2013, 03:35 PM #29
My new chuck body, collets,mounting screws arrived for the TRA001. Now can get started on drilling holes in the Kreg plate and swapping out the collets on both routers.
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18th July 2013, 06:56 PM #30
Okay I Suck at installing this bew chuck. Has anyone got a photo of how to get at the brushes? Also why do I need the string to hold the existing chuck?