Tung Oil or........????

[ubeaut]

Should be no prods with using tung oil outside. The good condition of the great wall of China is supposed to be because it was coated with tung oil.

[vsquizz]

Did the Chinese read the instructions on the can? or did some slippery merchant flog them some bogus Tung Oil with Poly in it?

[PAH1]

Should be no prods with using tung oil outside. The good condition of the great wall of China is supposed to be because it was coated with tung oil.

Interesting, a program on SBS a while back featured the great wall. The bricks are being worn faster than the mortar. The secret ingredient in the mortar was rice flour.

To get back on track, it is my understanding (perhaps flawed) that the same sorts of mixtures as VS is talking about being sold as "Danish oil" . I know they add poly to it and I think that it was really supposed to be based on tung oil. If that is the case then the "organoil Danish oil" may be worth a go. I doubt that that company would be adulterating its oil with much other than oil. I would guess that it already has carriers in it so does not need the diluting for the first few coats.

[Tip hunter]

Organoil do a pure tung oil. Have you tried burnishing it with a orbital sander. You develop a slurry of wood dust and oil that fills pores and gaps and then "cooks" in place from the heat of the fiction. Very smooth finish and satin gloss. Can be further glossed up with a wax polish over the top. I tested this on a door tread that was a rush job.(carpet guy coming) and was very happy with the finish provided in ten minutes on vic ash. Big drink first then wait till soaked up then another drink followed by the burnishing actionwith sander and fine grit paper. You will end up with clogged paper but the finish for the time involved was a bargain imho. Dust doesn't stick and it is wearing quiet well. Difficult to apply on nonflat surfaces but great for figured wood as it fills well. I am only a novice but i love this for its ease of use and economy of time and money. No clean up apart from changing paper and tossing a rag into the bin or the jar for next time. No waiting time for drying and dust setting in the finish. Excess slurry removed with a cloth in a quick buff and done. Twenty minutes from go to whoa. Could let oil soak for longer between coats but very little work time. Many a carefully aplied finish of other types has been ruined while drying by dust or bugs etc :mad: . This is a great alternative in my opinion as a novice who prefers finishing jobs to "finishing jobs".

[hexbaz]

I've got VB in my shed. Will that do?

Bit of a waste - surely you would rather drink it. Pity you don't export it - way better than the Fosters p!ss that you foist on us.

[outback]

Geez hex, what are we meant to do with the Fosters. You don't think any self respecting Aussie would be silly enough to actually drink it do ya! :eek:

[vsquizz]

Fosters, Fosters??? I did a search and I can't find any Tung Oil by Fosters,..Who or what is Fosters??

{another thread hijack/off topic..if you can't beat em }

[hexbaz]

To get back on track, it is my understanding (perhaps flawed) that the same sorts of mixtures as VS is talking about being sold as "Danish oil" . I know they add poly to it and I think that it was really supposed to be based on tung oil. If that is the case then the "organoil Danish oil" may be worth a go. I doubt that that company would be adulterating its oil with much other than oil. I would guess that it already has carriers in it so does not need the diluting for the first few coats.

To (attempt to!) stay back on track, I thought Danish Oil contained Linseed (plus additives). Maybe it's down to the brand.

There are many brands of pure tung oil out there. And they definitely say 'pure' (sometimes '100% pure') on the label. It should not be difficult to find some.

I'd be interested to hear if it makes any difference. You might find that the finish is not what you want. Tung oil does not dry very glossy (I guess the poly additives do that), but if you want more gloss, you can finish with wax after your coats of tung.

[ubeaut]

Actually pure tung oil can de made to be a very high gloss if used correctly and by someone who puts in the hard yards.

Some of the so called "pure tung oils" are diluted with turps or another solvent to give the manufacturer a few extra $'s in the pocket. If it's about the colour and thickness of honey then you can be pretty sure it is pure.

In very general terms, most of the Danish oils are a mix of linseed, poly & turps or linseed, spar varnish & turps, etc, etc. some of the better ones may have some tung oil in them. Basically they are all watered down poly.

[vsquizz]

Thanks Neil and everybody. Now I know what I'm looking for and I'll give the burnishing/ROS method a go.

Cheers and thanks again.

[HappyHammer]

BTW I am planning on doing the same with my LB. How bout a piccy. I was going to use marine ply and jarrah and finish with a marine varnish but I reckon an oil finish would look better.

Piccy attached. It's not finished yet and still needs more sanding, apologies for the crappy picture quality, I'll try to do better when it's finished. It's a marine ply carcass with Blue Glum tung n groove flooring on the outside. Trimming it up with some of the redder boards. The pitched roof hinges up to 90 degrees so you can get your mail out and the top will be for newspapers.

BTW, It's pretty heavy!!:eek:

HH.

[vsquizz]

HH, Looks great, I think I'll go the hinged arrangement you have.

I'd whip out the front and get a photie of my rusted out excuse for a mail receptacle but its night time . I told the neighbours it was a corrosion experiment but I* don't think they believed me

Thanks for the pic. Cheers ( I am again inspired to get on with the new shed)

[vsquizz]

Actually pure tung oil can de made to be a very high gloss if used correctly and by someone who puts in the hard yards.

Some of the so called "pure tung oils" are diluted with turps or another solvent to give the manufacturer a few extra $'s in the pocket. If it's about the colour and thickness of honey then you can be pretty sure it is pure.

In very general terms, most of the Danish oils are a mix of linseed, poly & turps or linseed, spar varnish & turps, etc, etc. some of the better ones may have some tung oil in them. Basically they are all watered down poly.

And so when are we going to see the Ubeaut Pure Tung Oil on the market so I'm not paying top dollar for half a can of turps and poly?

Just a thought "beautung oil" ??

Cheers

[jacko]

This is the probable idiot who wrote the article to which you refer.
Just to clarify:
I personally find real pure Tung oil very tricky to apply, especially to harder timbers. Thinned with a suitable solvent, great.
I looked at the content of the shelves at our local paint shop and all cans purporting to be Tung oil actually were mixes, variable , unknown percentage of Tung. Tung is not cheap, so if you find a "cheap" can, be suspicious.
I have never been able to get a really good deep sheen from just the oil, however this is on furniture, not turned products. I would guess (note guess!) that if you cuold burnish it you would polymerize the oil and get a better sheen.
I wrote the article following a request after posting a picture of a 5 drawer chest on this board, so it only represents my experience, so just take it or leave it.
Now, having got that off my chest, does anyone out there know of a NSW supplier of Tung??? (pure of course) I have run out of my supply obtained overseas.
Jacko
p.s no hard feelings, all's cool
also I did have them include my email address in the article just so any comments would get to me---but??

[vsquizz]

This is the probable idiot who wrote the article to which you refer.
Just to clarify:
I personally find real pure Tung oil very tricky to apply, especially to harder timbers. Thinned with a suitable solvent, great.
I looked at the content of the shelves at our local paint shop and all cans purporting to be Tung oil actually were mixes, variable , unknown percentage of Tung. Tung is not cheap, so if you find a "cheap" can, be suspicious.
I have never been able to get a really good deep sheen from just the oil, however this is on furniture, not turned products. I would guess (note guess!) that if you cuold burnish it you would polymerize the oil and get a better sheen.
I wrote the article following a request after posting a picture of a 5 drawer chest on this board, so it only represents my experience, so just take it or leave it.
Now, having got that off my chest, does anyone out there know of a NSW supplier of Tung??? (pure of course) I have run out of my supply obtained overseas.
Jacko
p.s no hard feelings, all's cool
also I did have them include my email address in the article just so any comments would get to me---but??

Jacko, from one probable idiot to another, thanks for posting and whilst I'm clearer on the subject in general I still have to experiment to reach a more informed opinion. Your experience still does not seem to match mine even allowing for some difference in our opinions of what is a good finish/what is easy to acheive etc.

Exactly on that subject, "a really good deep shine" is probably a good observation on your part as I know not of an oil finish which gives that really deep sheen such as with shellac. I look to oil finishes to give lustre, character and warmth, a natural finish is what I am after. I'm really keen to try the burnishing method. I must admit that I just like oil finishes, I like applying them and I like the look.

I'm cursing that I can't remember what brand of tung oil I did my jarrah window sills with 3 years ago. Thats what I have to research and that is what I think was missing from your article (variations between manufacturers)although it was probably not the place to bring it up. As I stated above somewhere, you mentioned "Pure" tung oil several times. My post and the object of my derision is that some of what is being marketed as "Tung Oil" is actually "Some Tung Oil with some solvents and other stuff". Thats the point of my starting this thread, to see how others experiences varied from yours and mine.

I thought your experience was well stated and as you mentioned "Pure" I got to thinking what I had been using wasn't.

I was well aware when I posted that the author would probably read this and stuck to the principles and spirit of this forum. I appreciate your response in the same manner. What is important is that your article forms part of my armoury and I'll take and leave parts of it as my experience develops.

I have been looking into Sceneys but have not yet tracked down some firm data. My local hardware store is awaiting a response from their supplier.

Can't help you in cockroach country with a supplier.

Cheers