Garage roof saga

[rsser]

I'm not clear here on where the problem is.

Roof? Or ceiling?

Taking roof to be the exterior cladding and ceiling the interior lining.

[Barry_White]

Just to clarify I was communicating with Cin through PM and email and the problem is it is a Kliplok roof that has been painted on the underside. My suggestion was to replace the Kliplok but it was going to be an expensive exercise as well as extensive work.

[Barry_White]

Cin

Just as a further suggestion would be to run Lysaght Topspan 61 battens across the underside of the roof purlins and then attach Colorbond White Wallclad across and to the Topspan 61 battens with appropiate flashings and cappings to seal the paint surface in.

[Bloss]

As I said - confirm the level then safely clean and repaint the underside as this is cheap and effective.

If the underside was painted in the 70s or later as suggested the lead level will be very low in any case.

To be most effective the new paint needs to be oil-based and preferably a metal primer.

Perhaps cold gal paint, which is expensive and has strong thinners solvent, but is highly adhesive and will keep on keeping on.

[Cin]

Great response guys. Your advice has really given me a fresh take on the issue.

As mentioned by Bloss, the next step would involve sending off paint samples for testing by an approved lab. This sounds great except that AGAL (Sydney) charges $250 minimum, which would be pointless because either way, the paint is still flaking off despite my efforts to scrape most of it off.

I stumbled upon a Bluescope Lysaght product called Klip-lok 700, which has been available since 2003. The most attractive feature of this product is that it can be used on a roof with low pitch (<10 deg) and the panels can be unclipped. Similar in price to Klip-lok 406.

Thanks to jedmanrocks for the moral support. I feel up to the task and should order the Klip-lok 700 tomorrow morning.

Where do you hire skip bins for $150 that could safely accommodate 33m^2 of roof material? All the quotes I have seen are above $450. I'm more inclined to leave the roof at the side of the garage under a tarp but its not a good solution.

Barry,
The panels are 540mm in width, although Klip-lok 406 should only be 406mm. It doesn't matter too much because its going to be removed though it makes me wonder...

[Barry_White]

Barry,
The panels are 540mm in width, although Klip-lok 406 should only be 406mm. It doesn't matter too much because its going to be removed though it makes me wonder...

Cin

Although it looks very much like Kliplok 406 it could very well be someone else's product that has a similar profile with different measurements but remember the 406 is the cover width not the overall width.

Actually Kliplok will go down to 1 degree pitch.

If you put an ad in the paper you could very well sell it. You may be surprised how much you would get for it.

[Cin]

Hi Barry,

I think I measured the overall width. Do you know if any other companies produced something very similar in design to Lysaght Klip-lok?

I'm tempted to place an ad in the papers or on eBay for the old roof. Thanks for the suggestion.

Quote for new Klip-lok 700, "Class 3" hex-head fasteners, clips, hex-head socket (for power drill), multi-grips was $961 incl. delivery. I chose multi-grips for turning up/down the ends of the Klip-lok panels because it would have cost about a hundred for the actual tools specifically designed for the job. I will be working on the roof this Australia Day...

[Barry_White]

Hi Barry,

I think I measured the overall width. Do you know if any other companies produced something very similar in design to Lysaght Klip-lok?

I'm tempted to place an ad in the papers or on eBay for the old roof. Thanks for the suggestion.

Quote for new Klip-lok 700, "Class 3" hex-head fasteners, clips, hex-head socket (for power drill), multi-grips was $961 incl. delivery. I chose multi-grips for turning up/down the ends of the Klip-lok panels because it would have cost about a hundred for the actual tools specifically designed for the job. I will be working on the roof this Australia Day...

Hi Chris

Metroll, Stramit and Stratco would produce a similar profile to Lysaghts Kliplok but Lysaghts invented it.

Kliplok clips were usually fixed with wafer head teks but I think the sheeting would clear the Hex head screws.

You can make a turnup/turndown tool out of a piece of timber with a saw cut about 25mm deep in the end. Just use a piece of 4 x 2 about 600mm long and slip the saw cut over the end of the pan and turn it up or down as required. Using this method you will be able to do it in one action.

Remember when walking on the roof walk in the pans and not on the ribs as you could kink them.

[Dirty Doogie]

Replacing the roof sheeting becuase the painted underside is peeling?

Now I've heard everything.

It sounds to me that by the time the sheeting comes off all the paint will have flaked off with it.

Why not simply fix new colorbond steel sheeting lengthways as a ceiling under neath .

[Cin]

Hi Dirty Doogie,

Cost. It costs at least $700 to do what you suggested because I have to add purlins every 45-60cm, joist hangers, and the ceiling material. I'd rather have a new roof than trying to conceal the existing one. You raise a good point though and my current thoughts are to spray (mist) water onto each panel I remove (12 total).

Chris

[Dirty Doogie]

All you would have to do is screw the sheets up to the underside of the rafters - lengthways - most roof sheeting will span 1200 mm before you get any problems with sagging.

[Barry_White]

All you would have to do is screw the sheets up to the underside of the rafters - lengthways - most roof sheeting will span 1200 mm before you get any problems with sagging.

Doogie

Being Klip-Lok the internal spans are going to be significantly greater than 1200 By using Klip-Lok you can reduce the number of support purlins so saving some money on the structure.

[Dirty Doogie]

I was thinking of something like this

[Barry_White]

I was thinking of something like this

The advantage I have is that I have seen some pictures of his roof that Cin emailed to me earlier before this thread was started and to make it work he would have to do something like I suggested in Post #18 and as he said the cost to do it would be just as expensive.

On second thought though if Cin did as I suggested and insulated between it would make a much more comfortable roof because as Cin has stated in another thread he intends to close it in to make it a proper shed.

[Cin]

The advantage I have is that I have seen some pictures of his roof that Cin emailed to me earlier before this thread was started and to make it work he would have to do something like I suggested in Post #18 and as he said the cost to do it would be just as expensive.

On second thought though if Cin did as I suggested and insulated between it would make a much more comfortable roof because as Cin has stated in another thread he intends to close it in to make it a proper shed.

Bazza is spot on.

Cost is the first thing that comes to my mind. It would cost at least 700 to do what you suggested because I have to add extra purlins to support the ceiling material, joist hangers, fasteners, and the colorbond material, etc. Ceiling material needs to fully enclose the entire area otherwise lead-paint dust may escape.

Insulation could be added after the new roof is on. I may consider that later on once I enclose the garage.