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11th September 2020, 10:00 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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11th September 2020, 10:10 AM #17I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.
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11th September 2020, 02:25 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Points 1,2 & 3 completed - I'm happy
Image 1 - Original piece of pine
Image 2 - Thru the jointer and nice and smooth
Image 3 - Not only smooth but square
Image 4 - Checked for parallel 73.40mm
Image 5 - Other end - Oh Bugger 7.36 .Out by 0.04mm. Is that close enough for a pass mark?
(Click on image for larger view)
Cheers
Bob
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11th September 2020, 06:34 PM #19
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11th September 2020, 08:11 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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11th September 2020, 08:15 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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11th September 2020, 08:21 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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12th September 2020, 10:06 AM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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It is drizzling rain here in Melbourne this morning and the forecast is for up to 50mm in the next 48 hours. So I have a question for the wise -
The blank which I measured yesterday has been in the garage (unlined and gaps around the doors to let the moist air flow). The measurements were taken outdoors on a nice, sunny, warm day (well it was for Melbourne). When I re-measure the blank on Monday should I expect the timber to have expanded or contracted due to the changes in the atmospheric conditions? If so will it be larger or smaller and by how much?
The first response to this thread with the correct answer will be awarded 1 brownie point to be applied by the judges in reaching their decision on the best plane of the competition (another executive decision).
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12th September 2020, 10:25 AM #24
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12th September 2020, 10:52 AM #25
Bob, seriously, I think it matters very little. It's a piece of old pallet wood, and the photos show that the billet contains the pith of the tree. It's not the best thing to use to check sawing, planing and straightening skills on.
I know its a trial run but I can see it causing you nothing but frustration if you proceed with that billet.I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.
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12th September 2020, 11:22 AM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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Advice please
By now I suspect that you have all figured out that I am planning a size 4 or5 Jack plane with a laminated wood body. I am now concentrating my thoughts on the blade. I envisage a 50mm x 5 or 6 mm blade with no chip breaker. The blade would be held in position by the wedge and pin technique.
The 3 questions I am battling with are:
1. What bedding angle to cut in the block?
- < 20o Commonly recommended for end grain block planes (Not what I want)
- 45o Frequently referred to as the common pitch and mostly used for bench planes for softwood and straight grained hardoods.
- 50o Frequently referred to as the York pitch recommended for hardwoods with interlocking and highly figure grain.
2. Plane iron to be mounted bevel - up or bevel - down? I am leaning towards bevel down.
3. Bevel angle to grind on iron?
- Primary bevel only? Most commentators are recommending 30o.
- Primary plus secondary bevel? If 30o used as primary bevel, would 25 -27o be appropriate for the secondary bevel
I am looking for a plane which will be optimized for Australian hardwood species where the aim is to emphasize the grain. Most material I have read refers to English or American species which I believe are frequently not as hard as the Australian species.
Any advice is desperately needed.
Thanks
Bob
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12th September 2020, 11:41 AM #27
Bob,
The 01 Tool steel I have for you is only 38 mm wide 6 mm thickness!!
Considering you want to plane some real woods, not the other softy stuff, that mere mortals use,I would go for A York pitch bevel down(bevel down mouths are bigger and easier to file).
But this is just my humble opinion I’m .
Cheers Matt.
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12th September 2020, 11:49 AM #28
That cuts out the <20 degrees option.
With <20 degrees ruled out that means a bevel down plane. That means the bevel angle becomes less critical as the bed angle will be what determines the the angle at which the blade contacts the timber. You then need to look at clearance angle, and edge durability, 25-30 is a good range. Your secondary bevel would begreater than your rimary,not less.
That points towards a higher bed angle (York Pitch)
Your own wishlist points to a 50 degree bevel down plane with a 25 to 30 degree primary bevel and a small (optional) secondary bevel.
Hint: Get the blade made up and build the plane around it. Much easier than building the plane and trying to make a blade to fit it. This is particularly important when you are relying on third party assistance to help make the blade.I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.
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12th September 2020, 12:00 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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13th September 2020, 10:42 AM #30GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Bob. My first "woodie" was Jack sized and has a bed angle of 45°. A lot of it's work has been prepping one flat surface on Messmate (old recycled rafters) so I can run the boards through a thicknesser (I don't own a jointer). The blade is the old tapered style, "Made in Sheffield".