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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    171

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyz View Post
    I may be on the wrong foot or the red soft drink is hitting home but I used the following on my old 2hp dusty.



    the plug went into a normal power socket and the 2hp dusty plugged into it. the remote was basiclly the power off/on
    I have one of those triggering a 25A contactor that switches the DC.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Kalgoorlie WA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    179

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    Quote Originally Posted by mpot View Post
    I have one of those triggering a 25A contactor that switches the DC.
    Using it this way, triggering a suitable amp contactor, is a much better way to do it. Zip tying a safety switch and switching a 2hp motor via a remote triggering a 10amp GPO is an insurance investigator's ticket to denying any claim in the event of an accident / fire etc.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,845

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    I got a chance to go to the wholesalers today, made my purchases and started to investigate. But is this what you had BMKal?

    I have two wires for the power cord (plus earth) and four (two wrapped together) to the left. Is 4 core still suitable? How do I extend the switch wires but leave the power ones at the motor?

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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    geelong
    Posts
    328

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    The ideal set up is when you turn on the thing-saw. thicknesser whatever and turns on then. Ask a sparky -handy though.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,845

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    No worries regarding the warning .

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Kalgoorlie WA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    179

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    Not something that I can easily explain on here - but yes - that is the same switch that I had. Basically, I used the 4 core cable to go between the 4 pins on the back of the switch and the same wires inside the junction box that are currently connected to those pins. If you have a fifth pin on your switch as yours appears to do in the photo, then this is simply a power supply to "hold in" the coil in the NVR switch. It will be bridged to the output side of the switch so that it only receives current when the switch is in the "on" position.

    As others have said, if you are not sure, I strongly advise to get an electrician to look at it for you. It is a very simple job, but not something that you can afford to get wrong. I'm lucky in that I have been working with electricians for years in my role in the mining game and am very familiar with this type of wiring / switchgear, and know how to check out the wiring connections etc for correct polarity and safety.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,845

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    My approach has always been to copy what was done exactly, ask questions and take photos. Usually works. Bridging wire makes sense and I was hoping I hadn't blown $11 on 4 core (I bought 3M of 2.5mm) . Thanks again.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,098

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    Not something that I can easily explain on here - but yes - that is the same switch that I had. Basically, I used the 4 core cable to go between the 4 pins on the back of the switch and the same wires inside the junction box that are currently connected to those pins. If you have a fifth pin on your switch as yours appears to do in the photo, then this is simply a power supply to "hold in" the coil in the NVR switch. It will be bridged to the output side of the switch so that it only receives current when the switch is in the "on" position.

    As others have said, if you are not sure, I strongly advise to get an electrician to look at it for you. It is a very simple job, but not something that you can afford to get wrong. I'm lucky in that I have been working with electricians for years in my role in the mining game and am very familiar with this type of wiring / switchgear, and know how to check out the wiring connections etc for correct polarity and safety.
    I found this:

    Dust extractor switch conversion remote control Dave Stanton easy woodworking - YouTube

    Carbatec sell the toggle switch and mounting plate for our Dust Collectors.

    Carbatec Toggle Switch - Short Lever Style | CarbatecCarbatec Replacement Switch Plate - suits SWT-J9301A Switch (56x88mm plate size) | Carbatec

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Dandenong Ranges
    Posts
    1,845

    Default

    Hi all. An update for those who might still be interested. After talking to various people's and eventually talking to my electrician, I have successfully moved the switch and can operate the dust extractor "remotely." My solution was to add male or female spade connectors to the "extension" cord and finish as per the photos below. Some parts are from the wholesalers and the blue perspex plate is from my stock. All done, well except for the collection point for the lathe......

    Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

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