Dust extractor electrical query

[Sturdee]

Peter, I need it for more than just the TS but I will probably do as you did and rewire the switch so I can run it off the powerboard - not too worried about the warranty, after all I can always put the soft switch back on

Adam

Adam,

My main DC powering a cyclone is outside the workshop and that one never had a NVR switch and is switched on via a PP switch in the centre of the workshop.

The one I had to fix is used as a booster because of my long pipe run and that is switched at the TS as it only serves the TS and attached router bench.

It was quite easy to do as it only needed to remove two wires from the swich and join them together. I left the switch in place as it covers that area up again.


Peter.

[mikm]

I am curious to know if you've had any success, Chumley, as I have also been looking into remote switching of an FM300.
My problem is that after exploratory surgery and then re-assembly of the switch to see what would be required, I now have a hum (pretty sure coming from the switch solenoid) when the motor is plugged in. Providing you haven't modified anything yet (or if your notes are better than mine), I would like to compare the wiring you have at your switch. For now, I just want it back together as per normal.

Sturdee, could you fill me on the acronyms NVR and PP, please?

For anyone with a bit of electric motor experience that may be able to help:
The FM300 has two white, one black and one red wire coming out of the motor. One of the whites is connected directly to active and has zero (or very close to it) ohms between it and the other white. It's been a week or so since I fired it up, but I'm pretty sure the motor has a centrifugal switch (for cap start or cap run?) that can be heard re-engaging when it spins down after turn off. When activated, the switch connects the black, red, mains neutral and remaining white in separate pairs and I need to confirm which ones sould be switched together. The coil to hold the switch on is wired across the two switched pairs, almost as if it's a double-pole, single-throw that is switching both active and neutral lines.

[Sturdee]

Sturdee, could you fill me on the acronyms NVR and PP, please?

NVR stands for a no volt release switch. That means when no voltage is going through the switch it will stop and not restart the motor accidently when the power is restored. Great for table saws but hopeless if the DC is outside the workshop for it means that you must restart at the switch all the time.

PP stand for power point switch, in my case a standard switch in line on the active line going to the power point outside the workshop where the DC is permanently plugged in and switched on, so I can turn the DC on and of in the workshop.


Peter.

[mikm]

Thanks Peter. I am used to GPO rather than PP, but I hadn't come across NVR before.

[Chumley]

I am curious to know if you've had any success, Chumley, as I have also been looking into remote switching of an FM300.

G'day mikm,
Haven't done a thing - got side-tracked making a few extras for my tsc10-hb. Still plan to do some but have put it in my 10-year plan.
Cheers,
Adam