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15th April 2014, 10:01 PM #16Senior Member
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15th April 2014, 10:08 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Techo1,
Look at PD044-PD049
More importantly the diagrams on page 37(if your manual is the same).
Stuart
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15th April 2014, 10:54 PM #18Senior Member
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15th April 2014, 11:11 PM #19
Hi Lex,
I can't find any Pd setting in the instruction manual relating to the type of switch used.
If you look at my circuit above, I have given all the relevant PD values and their function there.
If you follow that you will find it all works like a charm. The bottom two momentary switches in the circuit for JogForward and JogReverse are optional of course.Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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15th April 2014, 11:28 PM #20
Hi Ewan,
this panel is going on my mill. I have a shelf for measuring tools etc on the side of it (an old computer monitor folding display arm). The panel will be mounted to the back of that.
I get the idea of tracking my table feed with another tacho in mm or inches. I'll think about it.
I've built an identical circuit into the panel for my lathe too. For that - I think I mentioned pereviously - I've built just what you suggested: an 'electronic lead screw' (ELS). There is no mechanical connection between the spindle and the feed screw on my lathe and the microprocessor in the ELS monitors the spindle and drives the stepper motors for both the feed screw and the cross slide screw to do the turning, threading, tapers and taper threads. I'll go into that a bit more when I finished testing individual parts and have the lathe back together and working again.
That ELS has been successfully used by others to drive a miilng machine x and y axes with steppers. It's not a priority for me at this stage. Maybe once I get used to using it on the lathe I might reconsider....Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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15th April 2014, 11:47 PM #21
If you only what on off controls, you an use two momentary switches (momentary Normally Open for RUN and Normally Closed for STOP) as above and the latching mushroom switch in series with the OFF switch on the DCM/COM terminal side for E-Stop/Safety cutoff.
All the parts I used are cheap eBay switches and they only carry avout 100mA at 10V (measured) so they should last forever. You should be able to power the tacho from the 24V source in the VFD (I think between +24V and ACM terminals), because they only use a few mA to run and the 24V source is rated at 100mA as far as I can tell from the manual.
In case you are planning to use digital scales one day, I suggest you use a metal box though, as I'm not sure which connections emit EMF and send the scales silly. Obviously that will also mean you need to rung the motor cable and the contorl cables in separate metal flexible conduit grounded at one end only (to avoid ground loops).
That's really the extent of all my sparse knowledge on the topic though - and I might be wrong tooCheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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15th April 2014, 11:53 PM #22
Hi Joe,
I did mean for the mill, not lathe. My machine has the feed rates per min, so using the spindle speed and chip load you can work out the feed rate. RPM x number of teeth x feed per tooth (in inches in my case). After i bought the Vernier going back to a "best guess" on the HM50 was painful, its nice to know just what the chip load is and be able to repeat it consistently.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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16th April 2014, 01:38 AM #23
Mmmm, thanks Ew. Food for thought! Might mean I have think about some kind of feedback for the feed drive too. I repurposed a windscreen wiper motor for the table feed and its speed depends a lot on the load. SO going through material that changes in cutting depth does change the feed speed and I manually adjust it by the sound it makes. I think I might act on your suggestion sooner than later....
Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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16th April 2014, 09:09 AM #24Senior Member
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Thanks jhovel. Got all the bits at the moment so will pop it into the housing when I get it, didn't think about EMF so hopefully that's not a problem.
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16th April 2014, 02:08 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Hi all.
When I installed a similar system on my mill I had issues with VFD interference. The majority of it seemed to be in the wires NOT EMF ie noisy signals for the tacho. A small 0.1uF cap on the signal input to the tacho and to ground to achieve a low pas filter has worked a treat and I now have a very reliable and stable tacho down to 1 rpm!
Simon
Sent from my GT-I9195T using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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16th April 2014, 10:24 PM #26Senior Member
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I understand the switching setup now, thanks guys. The instruction manual leaves a lot to be desired. I could gain a little more room in the VFD enclosure on my surface grinder by wiring the stop/ start circuit like you have Joe instead of the latching relay/momentary pushbutton setup I have at the moment.
Regards, Lex.
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16th April 2014, 11:13 PM #27
You are quite right about the manual, Lex.
I think my own confusion resulted from not realising that some of the multi input options are 'commands' and others are 'state' settings.
It seems to me after my experimentations and failures and weird behaviour hinted at in the first post were the result of just that difference. For example with the latched stop button pressed, my Jog buttons still worked - not something you would want! At another point, the RunFor and RunRev buttons allowed the machine to run, but only as long as the button was pushed. I found a wiring mistake I made to cause that....
Looks to me now like the options
01 RUN sets a STATE which can be cancelled with 04 STOP, by BREAKING the connection between the STOP optioned terminal and DCM.
05 FOR/REV is also 'state' setting - needing a latched switch - but I'm not entirely sure.
02 and 03 are 'commands' that only need to be connected momentarily.
07 and 08 are the JOG options are 'states' so activation lasts as long as the momentary buttons are pushed.
But 06 JOG may be a (momentary) 'command' that needs to be cancelled with STOP.
Not sure how 13 Emergency Stop is different to 04, but it may be connected to some internal fault condion perhaps, though I don't know how.... perhaps the E-stop can be engaged by latching or unlatching its terminal to/from DCM? I might just try both options for academic interest.
If I misunderstood something described here, please someone set me straight.
For your surface grinder, Lex, you won't want any REV options, so just the 02 and 04 options (set for any of the PD044 to PD049 termoinal parameters would be enough, with a NO button for 'Run FOR' and a NC button for 'Stop' is enough. You could have a latching Emergency button in series with the STOP button on the DCM end if you want to. But even that is just a 'feature' to stop you starting the machine by pushing the run button....
Hope this helps someone..... maybeCheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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17th April 2014, 03:15 PM #28
I can't remember how my estop is hooked up but the vfd says e stop on the panel when it is pressed. Nothing works with it latched, not even the jog.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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17th April 2014, 07:36 PM #29
Thanks Ew, I'll get a chance over Easter to try a couple of settings.
I'm hoping to get my lathe back together in the next few days and the mill controls wired up while the paint dries on the latheCheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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17th April 2014, 08:40 PM #30
Hi joe,
I'm just looking at it now. With my estop latched I get the panel flashing from A.ES to F00.00.
I can find my huanyang book again, but my estop is NO and when latched connects DCM to SPM. Not sure which pd's are set to what to make it work. Like I say I can't find my book, but if you want to know any particular ones just ask.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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