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  1. #16
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    May 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner View Post
    I had a Microclean 1200 (I think) when they first came out 10 years or more ago.

    I only kept it for a few months then sold it. I didn't like the way it exhausted the filtered air in a rotary action.

    It probably filtered ok but in a high dust level enviroment, like power sanding bowls, the circular action of the exhausted air blew dust all over the workshop.

    So while it caught some of the dust it also sprayed plenty around the workshop.

    I suspect this type of unit works best in a low level of floating dust.

    I replaced it with a Carba-tec mid size unit. Now I have some control over the direction of the exhausted air flow. It helps create an airflow direction from one end of the workshop to the other end where there are 2 x 12" extractor fans in the wall.

    With all this running there is a gentle breeze flowing through the workshop.

    Unless the different units are all tested by the same independant authority I would take any claims about filteration figures with a grain of salt (or dust).

    Then you could really compare apples with apples.

    I think a good approach for the fine dust is to use a Negitive Ion Generator. I have one on all the time the power is on (dead man power switch). Again I can't make any claims about this as it would need independant testing.

    My main line of attack is a power respirator and a ducted dust extractor to catch most of the dust at the source.

    Finally one of the most important things, is good house keeping. No point in having all the above equipment, if your tools on your bench are covered in dust. Pick them up, or move them and you create a dust cloud just under your nose.

    For what it's worth that's my experience.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Interesting comments Tim.

    While you had the Microclene 1200, was it mounted above where you were power sanding?



    Zelk

  2. #17
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    Jan 2005
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    I am not sure how Tim used his, but none of the filters are intended as primary dust extractors. For power sanding on a lathe or router work a dust extractor or vacuum should really be used to get the majority of the dust.

    I have seen a shroud used (a big tube really) around the microclene to focus its pickup area in one spot.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    I am not sure how Tim used his, but none of the filters are intended as primary dust extractors. For power sanding on a lathe or router work a dust extractor or vacuum should really be used to get the majority of the dust.

    I have seen a shroud used (a big tube really) around the microclene to focus its pickup area in one spot.
    I agree Groggy, I'm still wondering whether in Tim's situation, the microclene was poorly positioned. Naturally, the expelled air is going to stir some dust up, but it is a question of where the operator and machinery is in relation to the unit. I feel that the microclene and the machinery must be in the centre of the workshop for max efficiency. This is not the case with the box style air filtration unit which is mounted to the ceiling to the side of the workshop. Ideally, the residual dust from operated machinery should be collected before reaching the operator, as equipment is in various workshop positions, choosing the right style of filtration unit may be important.

    Zelk

  4. #19
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    Jul 2001
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    South Australia
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    I had my Microclean mounted above head hight, just in front of the lathe.

    It was used in conjunction with the other equipment mentioned in my earlier post.

    For me, the hardest operation for managing the dust is power sanding large diameter (400mm plus) work on the lathe.

    Power sanding the outside of a large bowl or platter is not too bad. I usually run the lathe in reverse and can direct the dust stream into the mouth of the dust extractor. This catches most of the dust being generated.

    Power sanding the inside of larger pieces presents a few more problems. The centrifugal force tends to make the dust collect on the inside near the rim. Moving the sander into this area releases this dust in a large cloud, which is difficult, if not impossible, to collect with the dust extractor. The dust is sprayed in all directions in one quick burst.

    On larger pieces and if the shape permits I’ll power sand with a random orbital sander hooked up to my shop vac. This is virtually dust free power sanding. A slow speed of about 50 rpm works best, much faster and the sander tends to bounce on the work.

    It is not my intention to rubbish Microclean or any other air filter system. However they should not replace
    1: A dust extractor to catch as much dust as possible at the source
    2: Personal face protection such as a power respirator or face mask.

    I find extractor fans to be a quicker method to a clean air environment than using air filters. No filters to buy and a lot more capacity for your dollar. Extractor fans also work for fume extraction when using glues and finishes.

    There is no single solution to managing dust. It needs to be a coordinated approach from a number of different directions including good house keeping.

    That’s been my experience for what it’s worth.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner View Post
    I had my Microclean mounted above head hight, just in front of the lathe.

    It was used in conjunction with the other equipment mentioned in my earlier post.

    For me, the hardest operation for managing the dust is power sanding large diameter (400mm plus) work on the lathe.

    Power sanding the outside of a large bowl or platter is not too bad. I usually run the lathe in reverse and can direct the dust stream into the mouth of the dust extractor. This catches most of the dust being generated.

    Power sanding the inside of larger pieces presents a few more problems. The centrifugal force tends to make the dust collect on the inside near the rim. Moving the sander into this area releases this dust in a large cloud, which is difficult, if not impossible, to collect with the dust extractor. The dust is sprayed in all directions in one quick burst.

    On larger pieces and if the shape permits I’ll power sand with a random orbital sander hooked up to my shop vac. This is virtually dust free power sanding. A slow speed of about 50 rpm works best, much faster and the sander tends to bounce on the work.

    It is not my intention to rubbish Microclean or any other air filter system. However they should not replace
    1: A dust extractor to catch as much dust as possible at the source
    2: Personal face protection such as a power respirator or face mask.

    I find extractor fans to be a quicker method to a clean air environment than using air filters. No filters to buy and a lot more capacity for your dollar. Extractor fans also work for fume extraction when using glues and finishes.

    There is no single solution to managing dust. It needs to be a coordinated approach from a number of different directions including good house keeping.

    That’s been my experience for what it’s worth.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Thanks for that Tim, so in your case the exhaust of the filtration unit is as important as the filtration itself, at the end of the day, the residual dust should either be sucked away or blown away from the operator.

    Zelk

  6. #21
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    Jan 2005
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    Default Follow-up: Warranty and support

    Thought it worth mentioning that the motor failed last week. I contacted Microclene and they said send it back; no questions, no fuss. Yesterday the unit was back home sitting in its proper place and I can breathe easy again.

    Along with it came a few filters 'for my trouble' and a note explaining they had a batch of bothersome motors, since remedied. They also explained the new warranty provisions which very few repairers will do unless asked (12 months).

    Pretty good service!

  7. #22
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    Thanks for review groggy. No good to hear the motor died, but do it got replaced.

    Does the microclene unit had a timer or remote?

    Thinking of getting the 1200 if the tax return is good...
    My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

  8. #23
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    Jul 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by BozInOz View Post
    Thanks for review groggy. No good to hear the motor died, but do it got replaced.

    Does the microclene unit had a timer or remote?

    Thinking of getting the 1200 if the tax return is good...
    No timer or remote, but being such a low wattage unit any 240v unit should be fine.


    Joez

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BozInOz View Post
    Thanks for review groggy. No good to hear the motor died, but do it got replaced.

    Does the microclene unit had a timer or remote?

    Thinking of getting the 1200 if the tax return is good...
    The unit went on the Monday and was back on Thursday, very quick. I reckon things will occasionally have problems, it is the nature of manufacturing. The real issue is, are things simply fixed or do you get into a shouting match and walk away feeling peeved. In this case it was very pleasant and no effort at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    No timer or remote, but being such a low wattage unit any 240v unit should be fine.


    Joez
    As Joez said, I use a simple remote switch and also have a timer (for when I have cut mdf). It is kept by the door and is very handy. The remote also runs a few small lights so I don't shin myself when going into the shed at night. The light switches are on a far wall.

  10. #25
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    Groggy, I just read through the review thread and one thing stuck out a little as bad practice. In the original post, there is a picture of the unit hanging from a yellow crossbeam with the power cord wrapped around the cross beam.

    If the beam is conductive, it becomes a shorted secondary winding in a transformer, with the power cord wrap acting as the primary winding. This frequently consitutes a hazard and a point of excessive voltage loss/overheating of the cord.

    Probably not significant for a 100W load, but definitely not regarded as good practice. I mention this as a general warning about the practice, rather than a critisism of you or your method.

  11. #26
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    Good point malb, I didn't even consider it. It is no longer like that but I'll bear that in mind for the future

  12. #27
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    Default Cheaper option....

    Great review. I picked up one of the MC1000 units last year and have noticed the improvement.

    One thing I would add though. If you're in Oz, an option worthwhile considering is purchasing from overseas. I ordered mine from The Toolpost in the UK. Even with the additional cost of International Expedited shipping, I saved a few hundred dollars.

    http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Heal...icroclene.html

    Bernie.

  13. #28
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    If you purchase from uk just state you want the Aust power cord & should come with it the rest is identical & you save heaps.

  14. #29
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    If you read the posts, you will find that mine was returned and repaired under warranty. What would shipping to UK and back cost? Sure as eggs the local distributor would not be honouring a warranty from UK.

  15. #30
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    No argument from me thats the risk you take with bringing in anything from o/s , yes you had trouble with yours hopefully no more now its fixed,but I still like to live in the world of you pay for what you get & I reckon I am still paying enough to buy a quality product that will last me a fair while without wty issues, but hey will cross that bridge if n when it comes, but I do have the back up of rellies in the uk

    Cheers

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