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Thread: New Shed build
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26th January 2014, 12:27 AM #16
Every yard is different, but my last 5 addresses, the shad has been between 3 and 5 metres from the back door of the house, through a pergola/outdoor entertaining area. If I have my way so will house #6. Its great to just slip out the back door and straight in to the shed. Your choice of course!
Cheers
DougI got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.
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26th January 2014, 01:18 AM #17
That was my original thinking. But I'm now convinced that having it a bit further away from the house (about 20 odd metres as opposed to 1m) the house will look better.
I went for a drive around the area today and I found I preferred the look of houses where the shed wasn't right beside the house.
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26th January 2014, 09:14 AM #18Skwair2rownd
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27th January 2014, 02:39 AM #19
I drew up a list of pros and cons for the moving of the shed. This made the decision easy. The new site chose it self.
I then spent the afternoon drinking cups of coffee and walking around with a tape measure visualizing the whole deal. I'm pretty happy.
My next challenge is to mark out the site. This is not a straight forward exercise and I have to do some calculations. The finished dimensions are 10.4m x 8m. These are the dimensions I ordered and the sizes that are on the drawings supplied by the dealer. Now as far as I can work out the span of my columns should be 8m less 120mm which is 7.88m. Once the girts are attached that should give me my 8m (measured form outside edge of 1 girt to the outside edge of the other girt). Once the Colorbond is attached it will be slightly wider, giving me a width of about 8.05m measured from the extremes. If I've understood that correctly then I'm fine and should be able to dig my holes and get then in the right spot.
To check things I constructed 1 portal frame doing the bolts up finger tight. There is a bit of play in the holes so you can make adjustments. I pushed everything together and measured the span to get the minimum width and then stretched it out to get the maximum width. This gave me a spans of 7.94m & 7.95m. These figures are 60mm to 70mm greater than the figures above. Something isn't right. I'll have to sleep on it tonight and check it gain tomorrow.
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27th January 2014, 09:03 AM #20
Any framed building is measured over-all of the STRUCTURAL members and this is what all the engineering calcs are based on.
The person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
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27th January 2014, 10:36 AM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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One thing I found was a good idea was to stack each lot of wall sheets in a neat pile (ends flush) and predrill all the screw holes. worked extremely well for me
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28th January 2014, 09:13 PM #22
Mr Decisive here.
The shed sit is back to plan A, next to the house.
The guy came to level the site today. I'll try and peg it out tomorrow and he will come back next week and dig the footings.
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3rd February 2014, 07:12 PM #23
Pegged out the site. I was quite chuffed with my efforts. When I checked the diagonals they were exactly the same, no tweaking needed.
Now I have been reading my plans and the instructions and I'm getting a really good understanding of the whole deal. Of course other people would have the shed built by this stage. The parts are well labeled and referenced.
The bob cat guy says his auger is broken so he'll dig the footings for the pads with the bucket on his excavator. I don't know what sort of a job that will be, I want good looking holes. I need a bit of reassurance before I go ahead.
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3rd February 2014, 07:17 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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I would assume that hole dug with an excavator bucket would need to be boxed out before pouring.
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3rd February 2014, 07:41 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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By my reckoning you will have a minimum of six and a maximum of eight holes required, I would seriously think of digging them by hand.
A post hole shovel, working in tandem with a long handled skinny shovel is the way to do it. Otherwise just a normal long handled skinny shovel.
Post hole digger - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Should take about 2 hours at the inside, 4 hours at the outside, even for a beginner. Many holes cannot be reached by a post hole digger and require hand digging anyway. Although I will concede your site seems to be perfect for machinery.
My own shed was hand dug, then inspected, then poured. The digging took a couple of hours, which included a laser level for ascertaining overall depth and levels and fiddling about with two of us; six holes.
Mick.
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3rd February 2014, 07:53 PM #26
Rwbuild says:
If you make the pads exactly square and all the same level, make the pads the same height as the finished slab BUT fit expansion joint around the pad before pouring the slab
and when I looked at Timeless timbers pics above he has done this. Now, I have been thinking about this. The concrete guy says "Nah mate, it'll look S**T . Make the pads lower and we'll put the slab over the whole lot, that's how everybody else does it."
Now RWbuild and Timeless are pretty cluey. Could Ray or someone else please elaborate on why having the footings and the slab the same height is the way to go.
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3rd February 2014, 07:58 PM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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firstly, You will lose wall height, secondly you may void your warranty by pouring concrete up against the wall cladding.
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3rd February 2014, 09:25 PM #28
The main reasons are:
Uniform benchmarks at each pad to level your floor off
If there is any movement in your pads you can undo the bolts and pack / shim adjust your frame
If for some strange reason the floor fails, its super easy to cut up and remove
Also what Shed Bound saidThe person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
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3rd February 2014, 11:15 PM #29
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4th February 2014, 08:54 AM #30GOLD MEMBER
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If you do decide to pour the floor over the top of the footings, you will need to raise the footing bolts to allow for the thickness of the slab, otherwise you will be burying the post bases and bolts in concrete, never to be seen again. The advantage of bringing footings through the slab is it leaves the slab free floating and therefore less likely to crack because of point loading. The disadvantage is it does leave an entry point for white ants and should be treated accordingly.