Best product for painting timber floors

[manoftalent]

please do wear a dust mask , the throw away type are cheap to buy and will save your lungs in the long run..

[Aangelique1611]

ok so here are some snaps of the floor. Does this need sanding? What sort of timber is it (out of interests sake)? and can i paint over it with any of the above suggested paint types?
Thanks again for all the feedback.

[Gaza]

cypress,

why not just paint onew room without sanding and see how it goes, if it looks ok then do the rest.

[Aangelique1611]

sounds good to me ... what about the nail punching bizzo? do i need to do any of that? see in the photos - if you run your hand over you cant feel any nails (you cant even hardly see them from the pics/in person too) what do u reckon? is the nail punching thing fine to do for someone who has only just picked up a paint brush for the 1st time? is there anything else i need to know?

[Larry McCully]

I would lime wash, using a white wash. Then a water based poly over the top. Water based poly such as toby comercial will retain the whiteness. White wash on cypress looks good. Porters limewash products are favoured in the industry. I would get a pro to do it though. Its a bit tricky

[123]

Agree with Larry, look at getting a professional for this, its not simple to get a even stain across the floor. Liming white would have be used on the bare timber, than possibly even mixed in with the coating to bring it desired colour (must be done with a weaterbased coating to avoid yellowing)
In QLD you would normally look at about 35 to even $40 a square meter for this.

[Aangelique1611]

Yeah, I really dont want to do a limewash thing, i agree it looks great and probaably is more in line with many peoples tastes but im going for more of a flat colour (like in the photos attached) and i even when to porters to chat to them about it and the more i showed them what i wanted the more they said their product wasnt what i wanted ... and your right - i totally wouldnt try limewashing myself - it would look all patchy if i did it i think too...

[Master Splinter]

To be totally different here - if it is a particular modern look you are going for (that pic looks like it might be on a concrete slab) you may be disappointed with what you end up with if you go for a painted finish on timber. It just has the hallmarks of 'maintennance nightmare' to me - a fairly soft substrate trying to hold a clean and seamless look.

Have you had a look at good old vinyl? - there are many minimalist patterns (not looking like fake tiles) that may suit your needs and it may well work out cheaper than paint considering the amount of surface prep required for a decent paint job.

[manoftalent]

when you pull up the carpet stays, your going to have a gap under the skirting......which quad should cover up nicely something around the 25-30mm size should do it, they can be cut and liquid nailed ( also known as construction adhesive) into place and it will save you a fair bit of nailing....to cut mitres for the corners, I would suggest a mitre box and reasonable quality tenon saw to suit .....a mitre box is a guide and they are usually set for 45 and 90 degree angle cutting , easy for a novice to use and as long as you mark them off at the right lengths, you should get good results, remember to cut close too but not "on" the pencil line ..it does make a difference ....
I would only nail punch the nails protruding above the boards to a depth of say ....2-3mm...
you may want to invest in a set of good quality knee pads....crawl around on the floor punching nails for half an hour, and you'll see why I said that.....and lastly .....its a shame you want to paint baltic pine flooring ...cleaned up and resurfaced ...its a beautiful timber and worth a small fortune ......

[manoftalent]

when you pull up the carpet stays, your going to have a gap under the skirting......which quad should cover up nicely something around the 25-30mm size should do it, they can be cut and liquid nailed ( also known as construction adhesive) into place and it will save you a fair bit of nailing....to cut mitres for the corners, I would suggest a mitre box and reasonable quality tenon saw to suit .....a mitre box is a guide and they are usually set for 45 and 90 degree angle cutting , easy for a novice to use and as long as you mark them off at the right lengths, you should get good results, remember to cut close too but not "on" the pencil line ..it does make a difference ....
I would only nail punch the nails protruding above the boards to a depth of say ....2-3mm...
you may want to invest in a set of good quality knee pads....crawl around on the floor punching nails for half an hour, and you'll see why I said that.....and lastly .....its a shame you want to paint baltic pine flooring ...cleaned up and resurfaced ...its a beautiful timber and worth a small fortune ......

[Aangelique1611]

great! the stuff your talking about to cover up the gap ... is this usually done in the same colour as the boards (timber if stained) or in the same colour as the skirting boards? - dont want it to look dorky

[Aangelique1611]

I am assuming there is a nail punching tool i will just pick up at bunnings or is it something more basic than this? sorry if thats a dumb qu.

[manoftalent]

you can buy nail punches at bunnings ...from memory I think they came in a pack of three or four .....with different tips on the end to suit various sized nails ....if buying just one, ask for one that fits a 50-60mm bullet head nail..you should'nt have any problems

[manoftalent]

oh and the quad I would do in the same colour as the skirting boards, it wont stand out so much .

[Aangelique1611]

How should I feel about $350-$400 for the beading for 46m2 of floor sanding (2 bed apt)? Is that about right? Just booking it in now for either this weekend or next weekend ... seems a lot seeing as the total sanding comes to about $900 but if thats the going rate im happy to cough up ... just seems disproportionate.