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19th July 2014, 08:43 AM #16
Long story short...
Different Engine and gearbox transplant. As a result my shaft is about 100mm too short plus I now find a chassis cross member in the way so I don't quite have a straight line between flanges. Simply lengthening the shaft doesn't get me around the cross member which I don't want to move. I have enough "spare" angle travel through the UJs so standing the end of the shaft off the transfer box by about 100mm solves my problem(s).
Thx
J
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19th July 2014, 08:50 AM #17
Thanks for this.
What in my case would hold the extender onto the mandrel? Friction? I assume I would bore the extender out to a precise, known diameter and then the taper needs to have that same diameter at some point along the taper, tap into place with a soft hammer? Doesn't that only leave one side of the extender supported by the mandrel? i.e. the the smaller diameter on the mandrel wouldn't be in contact with the extender? Maybe the taper is so small as to almost be irrelevant?
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19th July 2014, 09:07 AM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Jon,
Spot on on all accounts. The bore doesn't have to be a specific diameter for a one off. If it was, then the bore is normally reamed to a known diameter which will suit the mandrel.
Friction does all the holding and the taper is so small that there will be no movement of the part to be machined. It's one of those "what sounds right in theory doesn't always happen in practise" things.
All in all I think you have a great understanding of a tapered mandrel.
Good luck with the project.
It doesn't matter which way you go with this, I have a feeling you will learn a lot from it. I would push the mandrel as depending on the revs the shaft will be doing you can set up a harmonic vibration which sucks so concentricity is paramount.
Phil
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19th July 2014, 11:09 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
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19th July 2014, 11:12 AM #20
A 1955 Land Rover! I have a sneaking suspicion that it won't be going real fast. I have heard a lot of stories like the brick on the accelerator, the car in lowest gear, steering wheel tied and a cup of tea on the opposite bank while waiting for it to arrive. The water across the ford was too high for the driver to stay in the car.
Dean
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19th July 2014, 12:17 PM #211915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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19th July 2014, 03:23 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
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- Sep 2010
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- Lebrina
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That will do it.
The Rover diffs were totally inadequate for the vehicle in many ways. Stupid little 2 gear carrier versus the Salisbury's 4 gear carrier and the Salisbury axles were much thicker and also a fine spline.
I got very good at changing axles in the Rover diffs, but never had to touch the Salisbury back end once we fitted it after the Rover diff dropped the carrier.
The genuine Rover axles were tapered as I recall, but after market axles were straight. They both still snapped in the same place
Still in all, very capable vehicles once you knew their idiosyncrasies.
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19th July 2014, 08:02 PM #23
Whilst we appear to have wandered off topic slightly I will expand on what Ive done...
I acquired the 86" with original gearbox and transfer box but with a totally shot 4 cylinder holden engine.
The replacement was either going to be a LR Diesel or an original LR 2.0 Petrol as it would originally have had. I wanted the car to be easy to drive every day (short trips!), oh and permanent 4WD would be a bonus.
I decided on a LR 300Tdi engine and then thought whilst everything was out to get to the chassis (cleaning and painting and probably welding) I may was well put a 5 speed R380 gearbox and matching LT230 Transfer box in.
So now I have a 300Tdi engine, 5 speed box and permanent 4WD shoe-horned in there.
Im still undecided what to do about the axles. Early tracta-joints in the front are a quick and easy fix to the permanent 4WD but that still leaves the vulnerability of the semi-floating rear half shafts and the question about what to do with the brakes. I think LWD 107's are bigger and bolt straight on.... Decisions decisions... for another thread!
Thx
J