Equipping my shop with Hand Tools

**The Bleeder** · 24th January 2013, 03:24 PM

Mooncabbage,

I'm about (a couple of months away) to rationalise my hand planes.

As you seem to be in genuine need I have a No4 , 4 1/2 and a 5 and may be a No 7.

If you are interested reply in this thread and then we'll PM.

**Mooncabbage** · 24th January 2013, 03:32 PM

Yeah, I'm interested, I'll send you a PM.

PS. See how long it takes you to get why this is funny

**Vann** · 24th January 2013, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by IanW

Sharpening is perhaps the most contentious issue on the Forum - everyone has a favoured method (which often changes over time!) and some folks are convinced theirs is best. Keep in mind that a cutting edge is just the junction between two planes...

Ahh! they must be the No.4 and No.5 I mentioned in my post...

Okay, okay, I'm going

Cheers, Vann.

**Mooncabbage** · 24th January 2013, 07:29 PM

I took Scribbly Gum's advice, got myself a set of cheap as chips trojan chisels. Since the set of 4 was no longer on $15 super special, I opted to get the set of 3 + sharpening stone for $20, and buy a 6mm chisel separately ($12). I should be well set in that regard for atleast a month or two :P Got sandpaper to sharpen them on also, so I'm pretty happy with that. I might get the Irwin Marples heavy duty whatsit set somewhere down the track, as I still think they look like nice chisels, but we'll see.

As a general sort of aside, how have people found Irwin as a brand? I've had a few of their things here and there, got a brand new 60T Irwin circular saw blade with my triton work centre, and generally speaking they seem to perform quite well. I notice they also produce metal planes in the same sort of price range as WoodRiver. I'm very interested to hear people's thoughts and experiences.

**IanW** · 24th January 2013, 08:54 PM

This is a bit of a worry (copied from the Bunnings page)!

Material: Carbon steel. Can Be Sharpened: No

If that's the case, why do they include the sharpening stone?

All silly business aside, you are off & running, M_c, you've made a start. Now make something......

Cheers,

**Mooncabbage** · 24th January 2013, 10:24 PM

At the moment I'm trying to turn a PITA cabinet that was in my workshop, into something I can actually use, atleast temporarily. It's MUCH harder to put a back and sides on something that's already completely built. And well done for spotting the funny :P

**ExKellick** · 25th January 2013, 01:00 AM

G'day Mooncabbage, probably the most important tools you can get are books, magazines and articles. The first simple piece of furniture you build will probably be inspired by something you have seen and love and will determine which hand tools you pick up first.

Look for old tools in reasonable condition over time and learn how to tune them up properly otherwise you will never get beyond frustration. Bunnings tools will get you over a hump but those tools you find at bargain prices and restore will give you most joy. (I actually just bought another Record SS plane today at a bargain price and look forward to making it sing again).

My first major project was built from recycled timber and every single board was planed flat and true with a 120+ year old beech jack plane. Every mortice tenon and dovetail was hand cut and it was assembled with clamps I made out of beech pallet wood from work. You get really good at sharpening and setting your tools up correctly when doing it old school.

Since then I have made dozens of pieces (some commercially) and just bought a big bargain Robland combination machine mostly paid for by selling off (well almost) my earlier machines. Woodworking is a patient art and holds many unexpected joys along the way. Enjoy the ride, the journey is actually the most pleasurable part of it all.

**The Bleeder** · 25th January 2013, 07:22 AM

Originally Posted by IanW

This is a bit of a worry (copied from the Bunnings page)!

Material: Carbon steel. Can Be Sharpened: No

If that's the case, why do they include the sharpening stone?

All silly business aside, you are off & running, M_c, you've made a start. Now make something......

Cheers,

I wouldn't worry that you can't sharpen them as it has 'tip width of 0' and a 'handle length of 0' so how in hell are you going to sharpen them any way.

**IanW** · 25th January 2013, 08:19 AM

Originally Posted by The Bleeder

I wouldn't worry that you can't sharpen them as it has 'tip width of 0' and a 'handle length of 0' so how in hell are you going to sharpen them any way.

Aha, Bleeder, I was so worried about the "can't be sharpened" bit, I overlooked the size. Well, it's clear now - with a tip width of '0', you don't NEED to sharpen 'cos it's infinitely sharp already. So I still ask, why include the stone?

Actually, I did once buy a chisel that couldn't be sharpened, not properly, anyway. The metal was so soft, it formed massive wire edges on the medium grit stone. These broke away & left me with a dull chisel no matter how hard I worked at it. Just for fun, I tried re-hardening it. That turned out spectacularly unsuccessfull, & I managed to snap it in half in the process (sheer stupidity on my part, don't ask!). I use it as a sacrificial chisel wherever there's a danger of hitting metal etc. Being soft, it doesn't chip like a regular chisel would, so it's easier to clean up afterwards. There's not a lot of it left, & I will probably have to find a replacement someday. It'll make a few of you blink when I put up the ad. "Wanted: Soft, uselesss chisel, approx 19mm" ....

Cheers,

**Mooncabbage** · 25th January 2013, 01:52 PM

Oh my god it's a budget light sabre!

**The Bleeder** · 25th January 2013, 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by IanW

Aha, Bleeder, I was so worried about the "can't be sharpened" bit, I overlooked the size. Well, it's clear now - with a tip width of '0', you don't NEED to sharpen 'cos it's infinitely sharp already. So I still ask, why include the stone?

Actually, I did once buy a chisel that couldn't be sharpened, not properly, anyway. The metal was so soft, it formed massive wire edges on the medium grit stone. These broke away & left me with a dull chisel no matter how hard I worked at it. Just for fun, I tried re-hardening it. That turned out spectacularly unsuccessfull, & I managed to snap it in half in the process (sheer stupidity on my part, don't ask!). I use it as a sacrificial chisel wherever there's a danger of hitting metal etc. Being soft, it doesn't chip like a regular chisel would, so it's easier to clean up afterwards. There's not a lot of it left, & I will probably have to find a replacement someday. It'll make a few of you blink when I put up the ad. "Wanted: Soft, uselesss chisel, approx 19mm" ....

Cheers,

So Ian how does it open paint tins?

**Mooncabbage** · 25th January 2013, 05:48 PM

Anyone recognise this guy?
trojan4.jpg

No? It's this guy, on the far right, that I found in my cellar last week:
Chisels.jpg

Turns out I bought one of these last year, and forgot about it. A little spray adhesive, 6 different grits of wet & dry sandpaper, and several hours, mr el-cheapo there is polished up to 1200 grit. The pictures don't really do it justice, they just show up the scratches. It's very shiny. It'll be shinier after it sees some 1500 and 2000 grit paper.

That said I have noticed a few issues. Firstly, the underside of the chisel is very slightly concave, maybe a half a millimeter high at the middle of the edge, probably slightly higher than that in the very centre. I may at some point take the time to grind that flat on the stone that came with my trojan chisels, but I'm not doing it right now. Secondly, there is a very slight curve on the cutting edge. It's immeasurably small, just a crack of light showing from behind when I stand the chisel up on a flat surface. Clearly, not all honing guides are even close to created equal. The el-crapo trojan one I picked up at bunnies yesterday is ok for the most part, and if it was just the bevel itself I'd leave it for now. However trying to clamp the chisel in it's jaws and adjust the angle is a nightmare. It probably took me longer to set up the angle than I was actually using the honing guide for. I'll have to see about a replacement.

Anyway, Mr Trojan Sr. is ready for his close up

trojan2.jpg trojan1.jpg trojan3.jpg

**IanW** · 25th January 2013, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by The Bleeder

So Ian how does it open paint tins?

Poorly!

**Master Splinter** · 26th January 2013, 12:01 PM

Well, if you want more, I saw sets of five Trojan chisels...with oilstone and guide...in a wooden ('mahogany') box...for $20 at my local bunnies!

**Robson Valley** · 26th January 2013, 01:22 PM

You can sharpen any edge at all. Trust me. How long that edge lasts with steady use is another matter, quite seperate and apart.

I see that you either want or are accumulating bench chisels. Nobody has mentioned that you will need a variety of mallets.
1. Rubber mallet
2. Dead-blow mallet (has lead shot in it = no rebound, just a thump.
3. Wood workers mallets = light 350g and heavy 800g
personally, I can't think if a more obtuse design with single striking faces that you have to line up.
OTOH, modern wood carver's mallets are cylindrical and you don't have to watch the strike, you can watch the job. The polyurethane covering is most bash-worthy yet kind to your chisels.

I've been swinging a 30oz/lead core carver's mallet into a 9/15 Pfeil gouge, some days just as hard as I can swing. Over the past 5 years, no damage to either one and I have yet to have it slip off and hit me.
I have some bench chisels at 40 degrees which I use to get past the occasional knot. While I might ding the bevel edge, no other harm done.

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