One for the builders (Re Decks)

[HappyHammer]

Stinky,

Which way up are you putting the decking timber? :eek:

HH.

[silentC]

Jeez Mick, the subbies would love you down here. I don't think anyone has used hardwood here for 10 years or probably more - too hard to drive a nail into. All the sub floors are treated pine - especially in decks. They don't even bother with the old bitumen flashing on the joists. Hardwood or T/P deck straight onto the T/P joist with a couple of gal Tita-deck dome head nails.

[journeyman Mick]

I like to think that the things I build will be around a lot longer than me! If we're going to cut down forests we should use their products in a way that maximises their use, value and longevity.

Mick

[Sir Stinkalot]

Stinky,

Which way up are you putting the decking timber? :eek:

HH.

Grooves down for me

[Peter36]

Treated pine is commonly used for deck joists in Melbourne - the hardwood that is available here is not suitable for use in exposed decks - and spiral Gal "Titadeck" or stainless steel nails used to fasten the decking . Takes a lot to pull the buggers out .

[Jacksin]

Stinky, just an observation, if I may.

It seems an awful lot of work for a landing only 900 wide. I take it you will install a ballustrade to stop people / kids walking or falling off the edge and suing the crap out of you. Why not double the width (as a minimum) to make it more accessible and look a bit more classy?
Jack

[Sir Stinkalot]

Stinky, just an observation, if I may.
It seems an awful lot of work for a landing only 900 wide. I take it you will install a ballustrade to stop people / kids walking or falling off the edge and suing the crap out of you. Why not double the width (as a minimum) to make it more accessible and look a bit more classy?
Jack

Jack ....

The landing is on the side of the house and there is only 1800mm clearence to the fence ..... I still need access for the lawnmower etc so the landing can only be 900mm wide. Previously we had concrete steps as soon as you walk out the door but it really was nasty. As the deck is only 500mm from the ground there is no need for a handrail (BCA) so I am not going to bother. A handrail will also increase the visual bulk of the stairs and landing and as this is in the middle of the path down the side of the house I want to avoid that.

Stinky.

[HappyHammer]

Why not extend it to the fence and put a ramp on either side, this gives you the size, requires no ballustrade and enables easy movement of the mower although at 25 you should be able to pick it up and carry it.

HH.

[Sir Stinkalot]

The deck really isn't a functional entertaining area ...... we have that out the back (well when I finish the garden walls and get the paving done ..... Basically we just wanted to have a landing so that you could put down the washing basket, take off and store your shoes etc before opening the sliding door. Previously we walked out the side door straight onto the steps ..... I prefer a landing rather than opening directly onto the first tread.

I have resized all of my members and now they are much easier to handle, it has also reduced the price and I will now use Jarrah decking. Now I just have to wait for Melbourne's weather to clear so I can make a start.

[Pulpo]

Mick

Sorry I know your on hols, but my hols consist of picking up the tools and having a DIY hat on.

With hardword sub-floor for the deck;

What nails do you use?

And can you use a nail gun? and interested to know what sort of nail gun.

Thanks for the fish plate idea, never heard of them either.

Also Sir Stinkalot

I would not be using the standard sleepers 8ft or 2.4m as they are often split after a few months, that's my experience and I have purchased quite a few over the last few years but from the one source, 3m might be a little different, I do not know.

Good Luck either way

Pulpo

[HappyHammer]

My Dad has built a few decks back in blighty and he uses screws not nails :eek:

HH.

[journeyman Mick]

Pulpo,
bearers bolted to checked out posts, joists trip-l-gripped to bearers - minimum of 10 nails per grip.

Mick

[Simmering]

I reckon that there's every chance they'll warp or twist. Sleepers are nearly always delivered green and sopping wet. I've got some in the ground that have held their shape fairly well but I don't think I'd like to build anything on them and expect them not to move. You're better off getting kiln dried T/P. You'll also find it easier to work with.

I've only just seen this thread, though I'll add a late thought as I can't see where the decision about using sleepers ended up.

There is no way that I would use sleepers. Sleepes are cut and processed green (very unseasoned). That is why so many cup, warp, split etc. The timber sizing that has been quoted appears to be for seasoned hardwoods. I would be concerned using unseasoned timbers on a deck as when they season (unevenly) the resultant deck will be undulating. Why waste a great landing/deck with a poor substructure?

Anyway, best of luck

[Sir Stinkalot]

Hi guys ....

The deck is well and truley under construction now.

I ended up using 140x45 dressed tp for the substructure.
Despite looking around for fish plates I couldn't find any so I had to go with the sturips.

What I have found from my experience is that the cost is in the bolts, nails, joist hangers, new drill bits etc more so than the timber.

The substructure should be finished today and then I will wait a little while before putting the boards on.

[Ramus]

Sorry to drag up an old message but am about to embark on deck construction myself. My question - Is it possible to just have hw or treated pine posts cemented in the ground (height will be from 300mm to 600mm) rather than the stirrups or fish plates?