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Results 16 to 20 of 20
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16th October 2006, 12:50 AM #16
Ta DJ for going to that effort.
I have a look for those existing holes tomorrow.
I noticed you've got those blue uprights hugging the body more, rather than going straight up. Is that important you think ? .....cause I was thinking of having them go straight up, so theres a greater distance between the racks.......meaning, I wouldn't have to bother about uprights around the tailgate and bumper bar uno.....just having the two racks that far apart should be able to support long timber well enough I would have thought. But I'm open to suggestions.
See, I've got a torno cover ready to be installed over the tray.....I didn't want to have to complicate getting the thing on and off by having upright bars coming up around the tailgate. (if that makes sense)
Thanks mate for your help.
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16th October 2006, 11:14 AM #17
Go with DJ's design.
Yours would not comply in Vic and more than that, would be a vision obstruction. Keep the pipes as close in to the body as possible.
Don't weld anything while attached to the car. You will probably fry your electronics.....
DanIs there anything easier done than said?- Stacky. The bottom pub, Cobram.
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16th October 2006, 06:38 PM #18
Ta Dan, if it won't comply I definetly won't do it.
Bit confused on how it'll obscure vision significantly though. The upright closest from the drivers seat is hiding behind the right strut (if thats what its called) to the roof.
For welding, I was intending to unhook the battery. Would have thought that be enough. But I'm no expert so wont do it. Shame though.
Had a look under the car today. Still not sure which existing holes I should fasten the uprights too...anyway.
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17th October 2006, 12:37 AM #19
GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Location
- Sydney,Australia
- Posts
- 42
DJ's pic is pretty much what I was talking about. You could double the top side rails and weld some zig-zag rod between them to make the rack more rigid, so you can extend it further forward/backwards from the uprights - just be wary of loading it heavily at the ends as the overhang will increase the force on the chassis connections due to leverage.
I think you should be able to get a third set of 'legs' at the side between the rear wheel arch and the tail lights, so it should not interfere with the tailgate operation and a 'tonneau' should be able to be slid off if it is one of those new rigid plastic/fiberglass lockdown ones.
Also, good call about frying the electrics - most of the cars I have worked on didn't have anything more complicated than a clock.
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18th October 2006, 09:19 PM #20
Thanks mate. Appreciate the help.
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