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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    32

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    Hey Rob.. i was waiting for your response! and i agree, the system does work and looks magnificent.. you did show me after all!

    Very good points in regards to having progressed too quickly and not having spent more time in those particular areas sanding out the light grooves... and i tihnk ill put the belt sander away for a little while and spend more time with the ROS.

    When sanding down a table top with an ROS, should i start with a coarser grit - say 40? - and then move my way up??

    Yes i did wipe the table down.. i think i used metho or acetone..

    thanks again.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Hi Tom,
    For the Brush Box there shouldn't be a need to go below 80 grit to start. Just be careful to let the sander do the work, i.e. don't press down on the sander. You should only need about 10 up and downs for each area you work on. But if it looks and feels like you need to do more, then do more. You really need to feel your way on each project to start with.

    I can't think of anything else that may have caused the problem, but make sure the timber is dry before adding the Oil. (It is Wattyl I hope?)
    WOP works to reduce the appearance of the oil by changing the Refractive Index of the surface, so that the white grit becomes more a "clear" grit. Or so I believe.
    If you feel youy'd like to go through the procedure again, you're welcome to come over and try it on a piece of Brush box. I have several nice pieces you can work on.

    Good Luck!

    Regards,

    Rob

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