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Thread: Hyco 6" Jointer Restoration
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10th September 2018, 02:25 PM #16
Team
I have seven hyco machines and the paint colour is different on each one. Only two have similar colours.
Gaza
I will take some photos of the different colours if you are interested?
See attached photo. My fence has wood mounted to it. You will notice on my jointer that a home made dust cover has been fastened to the belt cover. I suspect this is what robs guard on the jointer does , as well as guarding body parts from the blades?
Cheers stew
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10th September 2018, 03:09 PM #17
Thanks Stew.... I have taken one of the castings that has original paint (under the angle plate) down to my local Paint shop to have it matched... will be interested what they come up with.
I wish I had the cast base like yours.. it makes it a tidy unit.
See that small angle plate thats near the power cords..... Do you know what that is for? I have a similar plate but it is mounted closer to the cutter block. Mine has a shaft with a rod in it mounted through the hole.
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The tightening bolt is a DYO thing but the rest is turned and even the rod going through it is turned on the ends. This is the bit that I thought may have had some sort of cutter block cover mounted on it. Even the angle plate has been machined to match the level of the infeed table.
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12th September 2018, 09:19 AM #18
My local paint place has done an awesome job of matching the paint colour.
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14th September 2018, 03:47 PM #19
Another question....... Is it normal for the cutter blades to hang outside the block.. It seems as though the blades are aligned to the edge of the rabbiting feature and the block is a bit inside that again.. It also looks like these blades are sharpened on the edge as well.... Thoughts from my knowledge friends would be appreciated.
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14th September 2018, 08:17 PM #20
They cut on the end when you are rebating.
I had a Barker jointer that had knickers also to score.
I had some muttonchop guards for Hyco jointers cast a few years back but had a senior moment when making the pattern and made them back to front.
Thought I still had a pair but can’t find them, probably went to scrap.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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16th September 2018, 02:37 PM #21
Finally got the old girl stripped down.. Now the cleanup begins.
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The Out Feed table gets its turn in the Electrolysis tank.
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I was thinking of just scrubbing the tables but the heavy rust leaves this as the best option. Its going to be a long process as it seems to take at least two days per section... more than a week and a half I am thinking... then preparation for painting.
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16th September 2018, 10:45 PM #22
Gary
Do you think it’s going to be easy to put back together? It looks pretty straight forward? Did it have those keys to hold the beds in?
Ps I didn’t finish the repairs on the guard, so won’t be putting it into to foundry until the week following next weekend. I got carried away with the scroll saw paint stripping.
Cheers stew
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17th September 2018, 07:08 AM #23
Yes got the Gibbs on the Keyways...everyone says it is a bit tricky to get back together. But worth the effort... I had no choice as the infeed table was really stiff to adjust and the tables have a lot of rust so wanted them in the electrolysis tank. I did that bit of casting that the guard mounts on and it came up a treat...still a fair bit of pitting but clean.
all good with that guard I’m just happy that you have someone that can do it
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17th September 2018, 10:29 AM #24
Typo
Here are the pics of the Gib and Table adjusting setup for anyone that is planning to strip down their Hyco Jointer.
IMG_0272.jpgIMG_0273.jpgLast edited by Gaza58; 17th September 2018 at 02:20 PM. Reason: Spelling Typo
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23rd September 2018, 02:32 PM #25
The out feed table is out of the Electrolysis tank and has cleaned up the rust beautifully.
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A little concerned about the pitting in the steel section closest to the cutter, Using a dial indicator it seems that some of these are .2mm deep.
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I can live with the little bit of pitting on the table itself but just wondering if the pitting closest to the cutter would cause issues and maybe a trip to the Machine shop to grind the surface is required.
Any thoughts most welcome.
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The rough casting on the rabbiting section wouldn't be an issue as I doubt that I will ever use it and the casting that bolts on the side would go past this area anyway.
The infeed table is now in the Electrolysis tank.. It's taking a week per table so hopefully next weekend will be wire brushing and getting ready for the etch primer.
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23rd September 2018, 03:09 PM #26Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
- Posts
- 4,394
I have seen JB metal weld used to fill rust pits. It’s then machined down to a flat surface. Seemed to do a reasonable job.
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27th September 2018, 10:37 AM #27
After getting the infeed table out of the Electrolysis tank I notice there is a number stamped on it....Seems to be A140 Has anyone else noticed a number stamped on the top of the table where the fence bolts on. Not sure if it is a machine number or some sort of workshop inventory number. There is also a 12 stamped on most pieces which would be assembly ID's.
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27th September 2018, 10:18 PM #28
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1st October 2018, 04:22 PM #29
Long weekend so managed to get some more work done on the jointer.
Removing the drive screws from the plate.
This was a task that I assume everyone knows how to do, except myself
So thought I would share how I do it just in case there are others wondering how to do it as well.
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It's fairly simple really. I used my trusty Dremel with a fine cutoff wheel to make slots in the drive screws. You need to make them deep and wide enough to accept a suitable screwdriver. Being careful not to go too deep or the head will just sheer off... which isn't the end of the world as you can usually get a pair of pliers on the bit that left.
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Then its just a matter of unscrewing the screw and the plate is off ready for restoration. I would imagine that smaller drive screws might require a different method but this works great on this size.
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I was lucky enough to find a guy flogging a Nito Needle scaler locally which worked a treat getting the old paint and crud off the castings. I finished everything off with a wire brush on the angle grinder. Everything is now ready for masking and the primer.
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