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Thread: MECA Rotary Tables
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26th June 2013, 04:15 PM #16Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,148
I was just about to say "What about Yuasa"?
I do like the notched edge for direct indexing. That would be handy.
My R/T has a grub screw (locked with a grub screw - actually it's grub screw then ball bearing then grub screw) that sets a maximum for the shaft rotation. The adjustment is for taking out backlash by rolling the screw further into the worm gear.
table adjustment (Large).jpg
Check about the dividing plates - I had a 6" Vertex and it had 3 plates with it but the 8" Yuasa I now have only has 2 plates. If you want hole counts and dimensions let me know and I'll do a sketch.
Michael
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26th June 2013, 07:11 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2004
- Location
- Kyabram. Vic
- Posts
- 649
Ray,
Thanks for the offer of the dividing plates; but I already have a set for the 8", so hoping that they are a direct fit.
Ken
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27th June 2013, 02:21 AM #18
Ray I believe I have the origional manual for mine, The auction it came from was a closing down proto type facility. The Meca was in it's origional timber box (felt lined) with all the dividing plates bar one, But I havn't needed that one yet But when I first opened the box it was full of paperwork reciepts from callibration tests and im almost positive the manual was there with it all. The table I have used it abouy 5 times in the last 2 years so I am happy to have an educated guess and say I have used it more than anyone in the company I baught it from has,
Mine is thr compleate kit...,.,.,.
So Ray if you don't mind if I photocopy them for you to haqve your own book then.
Kind Regards,
Matthew Gischus`Warning Disclaimer
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27th June 2013, 02:30 AM #19
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27th June 2013, 01:04 PM #20
Thanks Matthew, you are a life saver!
I've sent you a PM with my contact details.
I can vouch for the smoothness of operation, when we first got them home and were trying to figure out why one was stuck, Josh had flushed them with kerosene and filled them both with oil, both of them had dried out.
You could spin the handle and even with just a gently spin the table kept moving smoothly... silky smooth and rock solid..
The restoration is coming along, Josh is doing all the work ( as usual! ) and we might even get to a coat of primer before the weekend... pictures later.
Regards
Ray
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28th June 2013, 12:23 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 764
While the main casting is soaking away in the caustic soda bath, there is little to do on the rotary table but to clean off the rust and get the bits and bobs into a better condition. I think I may know why this table was seized up, there is a small crack on the worm drive carrier(thanks Stuart) that would allow the oil bath to drain away all be it slowly. See pic bellow
DSCN3137.jpg
The table
DSCN3136.jpg
Some of the bits and bobs
DSCN3142.jpg
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28th June 2013, 03:02 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,770
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28th June 2013, 03:59 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2012
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 764
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29th June 2013, 10:24 PM #24Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
- Location
- Blue Mtns
- Posts
- 66
Well done the Meca stuff is first class.
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10th July 2013, 05:54 PM #25
Here's one for GregQ, did you know you can get custom spray cans?.... look for a U-POL dealer, they can mix up any colour you like ( as long as they have the formula ) ...
DSCN3162s.JPG
Hey presto spray can of RAL 6011....
Regards
Ray
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18th July 2013, 10:05 PM #26
Josh and I got one Meca rotary table finished and re-assembled, just finished the touchup paint, and cleaned off some overspray.
DSCN3193s.JPGDSCN3197s.JPG
As well as the new handle we also had to make new table locks, made them the same as the originals.
One down one to go..
Regards
Ray
PS: The oil leak caused by the crack on the worm drive carrier was repaired by filling with brazing and re-machining the seal.. here's hoping it doesn't leak..
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18th July 2013, 11:21 PM #27
Good work
The graduated ring looks gleaming, looks like one of you spent some time polishing! I like the way the coolant channels are made in the base, i seem to end up with it everywhere when i use my little R/T.
And here was you thinking i would finish the D/H first. I have been a little pre occupied, and now i have to play tetris with the shed to make some space. I also had some problems with the topcoat not bonding to the primer filler properly and puckering.....i've have to strip the top off almost all the parts and go again.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.