CBN Grinding Wheels

[Jim Carroll]

Ray I think I have the same grinder as you. Except not as smooth. I didn't see any grit options on Jim's site. What sort of finish does it give? Could you go straight from the wheel to a lap? I googled CBN lapping paste but got no genuine results.

BTW, you need to speak to the birthday fairies about a tripod.

Bryan the claimed grit is 170-200.

[jhovel]

Well, Jim, you may well know better, but the listing refers to 2 bits:
"These wheels come with the bushing to suit the 1/2" spindle common for the 6" bench grinder and a spacer to take it out to the 25mm standard fitting."
Joe

[Jim Carroll]

Because the 6" wheel is only 20mm wide there is a spacer required for most 6" grinder as they are usually set up for 25mm wide wheels and there is not enough thread to lock the wheel up properly.

On the 8" grinders this is not needed as the centre hub is 25mm wide so ok for normal fitting.

[RayG]

Ray I think I have the same grinder as you. Except not as smooth. I didn't see any grit options on Jim's site. What sort of finish does it give? Could you go straight from the wheel to a lap? I googled CBN lapping paste but got no genuine results.

BTW, you need to speak to the birthday fairies about a tripod.

Hi Bryan,

I remember when I bought that grinder, the label says G W Healey and Sons 1975, so that's 37 years...(seems like yesterday) I got a Peerless Drill Press and Peerless stick welder around the same time. All still going strong.

I've been lapping with trizact belts on the linisher, but you might be onto something with the cbn paste idea. That said, the finish direct off the CBN wheel is pretty good anyway.

Hi Joe,

I think Jim has already answered this, but the spacer is just to match the 5/8" shaft on the grinder to the shaft diameter of the wheel. it's a close fit on both the shaft and the wheel, you need to tap it in with a soft faced hammer. Then you need to find that "sweet spot" to minimize run-out.

To reverse the wheel I need to make a flange large enough to provide support for the inner part of the wheel to register against.

I'm thinking of doing that on the Silicon carbide wheel side anyway, now that it runs so smoothly I need to do a bit of work to bring the other wheels up to scratch.

Thanks Jim, I couldn't see any markings as to what the grit was, 180 feels about right. It feels much finer than the normal alox wheels.

Regards
Ray

[robo hippy]

I have posted at length about this type of wheel, and predict that the Aluminum Oxide wheels are obsolete. I have the resin bond matrix type (3/16 of resin matrix bonded to a 1 inch wide aluminum hub) and used them for production bowl turning for 6 plus years. At least half of the wheels are left. The matrix type do develop some run out, and need to be retrued. You can not do this at home as this wheel will eat diamond dressers. The wheels do go through a break in period. They are very aggressive at first, and smooth out a bit after some use. You do need a coarse wheel in the 80 grit range.

They just don't load up, they are balanced, and then never need to be cleaned up. They will never blow up. They run a LOT cooler than AlO wheels. They cost more, but you will get far more $ worth of use out of them than standard wheels.

More toys!!!!

robo hippy