Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 27 of 27
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    274

    Default Tempering Valves

    I have a Rinnai 26 Plus that has had the dip switches set to deliver 60 degrees max. The tempering valve is below the unit but the hot water to the kitchen and laundry is taken off before the tempering valve which supplies the bathrooms.
    Works a charm and the water at the kitchen sink is HOT. Controller in kitchen near sink and another in the bathroom.

    Cheers
    Juan


    "If the enemy is in range, so are you."

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sydney-south
    Posts
    333

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by juan View Post
    I have a Rinnai 26 Plus that has had the dip switches set to deliver 60 degrees max. The tempering valve is below the unit but the hot water to the kitchen and laundry is taken off before the tempering valve which supplies the bathrooms.
    Works a charm and the water at the kitchen sink is HOT. Controller in kitchen near sink and another in the bathroom.

    Cheers
    The way it should be exactly!
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Thanks all, is it definite that this can't be patched or repaired ? Im just thinking because if you have a car radiator leaking, you can do a patch/repair of that to stop the leak and keep driving - yeah it will prob spring a leak again soon but it might last until we sell our house, rather than paying to get a new hot water which will prob not add as much value to the $ we get compare to what we pay for the new HWS... ?

    I think from a $ point of view if it can't be repaired or patched it will probably be better to do a straight swap/similar swap rather than convert from like gas storage to instant gas hws

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    139

    Default

    You could patch it and it would probably work. But if there's a hole then it means the whole cylinder is almost certainly very rusty on the inside (and will still be rapidly corroding away assuming the anode has gone and rust is lifting the lining off) so it's likely to be fix one leak and another one appears.

    I have patched an old copper tank successfully, but they corrode much more slowly and aren't under mains pressure. That one is still in use (at work) and was patched with gutter silicone about 3 years ago. It was only planned to be temporary but it's been working fine ever since. It's a very low pressure unit though.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sydney-south
    Posts
    333

    Default

    The best advice I can give is dont bugger around with it, go through the trading post or ebay and see if you can pick up a cheap 2nd hand one.
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Sydney-south
    Posts
    333

    Default

    And yes its definately beyond being patched or repaired. The tanks are enamelled on the inside and once this starts going its all over. The best way out of it would be a straight swap and a new duo valve on the CW inlet.
    Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Kilsyth
    Age
    66
    Posts
    300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by juan View Post
    Looks like a Rheem 31 series 135litre fast recovery unit. Also looks stuffed but I will let the plumbers here tell u that as I am only a sparkie. Remove the lift off cover plate at the bottom front and the date of manufacture will be on the printed label inside.
    I guess about 10-12 years old so probably at the end of its life.
    cheers
    10- 12 years... my 135l unit is 15 years old, and (almost) as good now as the day it was made (fingers crossed, touch wood )

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Terrian View Post
    10- 12 years... my 135l unit is 15 years old, and (almost) as good now as the day it was made (fingers crossed, touch wood )
    Put a new anode in and with a bit of luck it will last a while yet.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Kilsyth
    Age
    66
    Posts
    300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Smurf View Post
    Put a new anode in and with a bit of luck it will last a while yet.
    At this stage I believe in the 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' motto

    I paid $300 for it about 15 years ago (it was bought from a work mate who had just had a new unit built and it was smaller than what he wanted) I wouild say I have had my moneys worth out of it

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    far south coast nsw
    Age
    84
    Posts
    1

    Default hot water

    Elgas had an offer of I think $ 300.
    sorry I cant remember all the details but it looked damm good. I Had LPG installed about six years ago and thought mickey mouse. Got the plumbers quote including this temp valve over $1200. No go. I learned late that with the instant heaters, If you have a shower and just a few minutes pass and someone else showers they will get the remaining hot water in the line and cold water until the heater catched up. Think this would be very be very off putting good luck

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Northen Rivers NSW
    Age
    58
    Posts
    758

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    Go for instant gas replacement you will save heaps on gas
    yes yes yes


  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    274

    Default Hot water

    I learned late that with the instant heaters, If you have a shower and just a few minutes pass and someone else showers they will get the remaining hot water in the line and cold water until the heater catched up. Think this would be very be very off putting good luck
    How can it be different with storage hot water? The water that has cooled in the pipes has to be discharged and replaced with hot water before you get hot water again. Besides the water would cool relatively evenly in the hot water pipe so why would they get hot water at first then cold. It would be cool at first and gradually warm up regardless of the water heating system (unless you have some pre heat device).

    cheers
    Juan


    "If the enemy is in range, so are you."

Similar Threads

  1. Electric hot water system making cold water
    By Nolesy in forum PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL, HEATING, COOLING, etc
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 14th December 2006, 08:36 PM
  2. Leaking water cutoff tap who should pay?
    By shaunm in forum PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL, HEATING, COOLING, etc
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 28th August 2006, 12:00 AM
  3. Hot water system troubleshooting (bosch water wizard 780)
    By weezlebub in forum PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL, HEATING, COOLING, etc
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 5th July 2006, 07:41 PM
  4. hot water system
    By Gaynor in forum PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL, HEATING, COOLING, etc
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 1st August 2004, 06:47 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •