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  1. #16
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    Oct 2011
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    That only works on unstained timbers, but you can use that method with danish oil as well.

  2. #17
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    Oct 2011
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    Mount Colah
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    Yep, best before staining. The reason I prefer shellac is the speed of drying, with oil you can pull the slurry out if the pores, unless left a long time.

  3. #18
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    Oct 2011
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    Hmm I didn't know that I've seen youtube videos of where they use danish oil, sand to a make a slurry and then glently damn I forgot with the grain or against the grain. This is what I plan on doing in my current project as I fighting an up hill battle with it. I've stained the timber but I need to fill it to level it and I'm thinking because the timber grain filler will require alot of sanding I'm afraid I will sand through the stain on the other hand if I thinned the saind sealer and lightly sanded it I shouldnt have a problem. But instead of all of that I am thinking I probably would be better off making a slurry with the danish oil and when it's fully cured spray some poly on top.

    What do think will any of them work.

  4. #19
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    Oct 2011
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    Mount Colah
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    You're going to affect the stain to some extent whatever you do.

    I'd totally forgotten but there was also an issue of Fine Woodworking where they 'revealed' the wet sanding method using polyurethane. Never tried it but it makes some sense. Slower drying than shellac but not as slow as oil. I would hesitate to do it with Danish oil unless the brand you have goes off reasonably quick.

    If you wet sand with poly then you won't be dry sanding the stained surface afterwards.

  5. #20
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    Oct 2011
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    Gold Coast
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    Yes I know I will there is no solution to this except for one and that is tinting the filler sand it back and then stain it, I've wet sanded before with danish oil even with poly but I thinned it down so I can apply it with a rag. Without filling the pores the timber just absorbs too much poly resulting in days and days of recoats.

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