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6th February 2018, 08:09 PM #16
My first house (mid 1980s) was built in the late 1920s. All the lighting was in 5/8" steel conduit. The conductors were cloth covered and some were not in a good way. I pulled new, individual wires through all the conduits and then had a sparkie fit a new mains board. Strange thing is, apart from the lighting conduit, there was a conduit to the stove, and two conduits to power points. TWO power points for the whole house . Times have changed, I think we have a minimum of three double power points in each bedroom of the current house (didn't kids charge their laptops and phones in their rooms in 1928 ?? ). But I digress...
As you say, earthing steel conduit is very important. I went out of my way to carefully earth the conduit on my bandsaw.
Cheers, VannGatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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6th February 2018, 08:39 PM #17
I rewired a house once that had 1 power point in the lounge room (I think for the radio) and that was it. They didn't have any other electrical appliances. As the years progressed they added double adaptors and power boards on extension leads. Some of the leads were run under the house with a hole drilled in the corner of the room for the lead to come through. I can't remember what size fuse wire was in the one fuse but it must have been pretty big.
I will keep an eye out for old starters. Until fairly recently my job involved decommissioning old substations. We pulled some great old bits of gear from some of those.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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6th February 2018, 10:57 PM #18
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6th February 2018, 10:58 PM #19
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7th February 2018, 08:14 AM #20
Here you go Stew. Never really pulled it apart....It's pretty basic and you would need a relay box of some sort to go with it.... I always thought this was actually the whole shabang... so glad you asked for a look inside.
Switch 002.jpgSwitch 003.jpg
I will have to start looking around for a relay box now.
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7th February 2018, 08:18 AM #21
By the way it is a ROWCO Australian Made one switch is normally open the other is normally closed.
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7th February 2018, 01:38 PM #22
That is awesome Gaza, a little bit scary but awesome. Wouldn't be too hard to replace those buttons with modern ones and leave the outside as is. The contactor could be mounted in a separate box in/under the machine out of view.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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7th February 2018, 02:01 PM #23
I will talk to my sparky about the best way to deal with it... even though I could work it out myself.. my training is with DC.. (Ex Telstra) Just have a policy to leave AC stuff to the guys trained in it. The Thornley saw that I was intending to use this on doesn't give you the option of mounting it underneath without it being a pain to get at later on.... Was thinking having the box at the back so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.... that way the wiring can but directed to the switch box via metal conduit keeping it nice an neat.
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7th February 2018, 02:01 PM #24
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7th February 2018, 04:19 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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In the old days a mechanical switch was common but these days from a safety perspective all saws (in fact all machines with exposed rotating components) should be fitted with a switch the disables the connection if the power fails, i.e. it won't start if power is restored unless you push a button.
This is normally a relay controlled by that geriatric switch and even though you are restoring an old machine to its "original" condition I think that modern safety features are not an option but are a requirement.
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7th February 2018, 07:33 PM #26
Machinery often has more than just the contactor in the control box/panel. It's very common to have a start/stop station located close to where the machine is operated and have everything else in a control panel.
You can use a modern stop start station in conjunction with ye olde timey pushbuttons. You can also use a 3 phase starter on single phase and still have the thermal protection by wiring it a bit differently.
Give me a yell if you want a hand Stew. I'm in Newcastle a fair bit.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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7th February 2018, 09:35 PM #27
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8th February 2018, 03:34 AM #28
Yup.
Here are some pikkies of WW2 era Wadkin PK saws. The On/Off buttons are located at the front of the machine (just below the table - RH side).
PK2.jpg
While the switchgear is located around the back, behind this panel.
PK1.jpg
Or on this Wadkin RD buzzer. The On/Off buttons are above and to the right of the switchgear - again behind the panel (both green - Auscab has been acquiring vintage parts to get his RD going ).
RD1.jpg
In both cases the switchgear includes a contactor with NVR (no-volt relay - which drops the contactor out when the power goes off, so the machine doesn't inadvertently turn on when the power comes back on).
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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11th February 2018, 09:46 PM #29
Vann
is that your PK? If so, when are you going to make it look all shiny and give it a new coat of paint?
Cheers
Stew
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12th February 2018, 07:15 AM #30
Hi Stew. The second photo is my PK (the grey one).
The initial plan was to forget the paint, just get it up and running. That was 30 months ago and it's still not up and running . I have repainted the double mitres, the crown guard and arm castings, the ripping fence, and most of the edge of the table - parts where the paint was damaged or overpainted with clown (I mean safety) paint. I had hoped to attempt cleaning the light grey off the base to releal the original paint - in a similar way to Auscab's Wadkin DR clean-up.
Meanwhile, over those 30 months, the table has a new coat of surface rust (I just cleared off the table last week to take a photograph).
PKA 800a.jpg
And as this thread is about vintage electricals - I've also put together a lovely old vintage MEM isolating switch, to replace the horrible modern lash-up it has on at present.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .