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Thread: Veneer cutting jig
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16th February 2014, 01:02 AM #16Member
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16th February 2014, 03:24 AM #17Retired
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16th February 2014, 09:35 AM #18... and this too shall pass away ...
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7th December 2014, 03:58 PM #19
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26th February 2020, 04:43 PM #20... and this too shall pass away ...
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All these years later, and I am still using that prototype jig, and it still works like a bought one.
Has anyone come up with improvements. Always looking for a better way.
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23rd May 2020, 10:38 AM #21
Thanks for sharing your jig, John. What type of soft rubber did you use between your rollers and the jig. Was it similar to neoprene in softness or harder ?
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23rd May 2020, 10:59 AM #22... and this too shall pass away ...
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I bought the rubber in a 25 mm wide strip, from Clark Rubber. It is the softest rubber they had apart from the spongy stuff. At the time I thought the spongy stuff might not "rebound" quickly enough, but now reckon it would likely be OK. The soft rubber is key to the success of the jig, because it applies constant pressure which holds the work piece against the fence. As the tooth marks pass over the rollers, they can move a tad to keep constant pressure on the work piece. Magik!
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23rd July 2021, 11:35 AM #23... and this too shall pass away ...
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Thought I'd update this thread with some notes on re-sawing.
In recent times I've bought a fair bit of timber as 50 mm slabs or boards. Done a fair bit of converting 50 mm boards into two thinner boards on the bandsaw.
First I dress both sides and either one or both edges, depending on the job. Then I set up the fence and the jig to get the blade dead centre in the board/slab. The jig holds the timber against the fence. All I need to do is to lean on the end to push it through the saw.
Re-sawed some 2,400 X 150 X 50 mm boards this week. For this job I was standing 2.4 M away from the blade at the start of the cut. It worked like a charm.
If you find yourself cutting veneers or re-sawing boards, a jig like this is well worth considering. I reckon you need only one row of ball rollers, immediately in front of the blade.
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27th July 2022, 10:18 AM #24
I found a video with a similar jig
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28th July 2022, 10:12 PM #25... and this too shall pass away ...
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It is similar, Johnknee, but mine is a lot simpler. They both work.
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7th October 2022, 08:16 PM #26
I bought some of those rollers and put them on a jig a few months ago but did not try it out until today. Had a need to produce some silky oak veneer so gave it a go and it turned out quite well.
The timber was only 100 mm wide and my jig is a bit different but even so I'm impressed with the fact that it cut quite consistent veneers at 0.75mm thickness.
I had a few goes at getting the thickness set and also found that at the end of the cut the timber block tended to twist away from the fence but it was all good once I worked things out.
Might need to make a higher version for cutting wider veneers.
Thanks for starting this thread John, and also for the follow up post that brought it to my attention.
Veneer jig set up.jpg Veneer thickness .jpgCheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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1st October 2023, 02:01 PM #27... and this too shall pass away ...
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Just saw your post, Bob.
Looks good!
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2nd October 2023, 11:56 AM #28... and this too shall pass away ...
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Here's my conversion of the standard fence that came with the saw. The standard fence is not tall enough for resawing and cutting veneers. I could buy an OEM item, providing I was willing to sell a kidney or a grandchild to pay for it. Pass ... I'll make it.
I had a kitchen cabinet door that was removed when installing a dishwasher for my son. It is HMR particleboard with melamine veneers.
You will notice the fence has a triangle shaped hollow.
I cut a piece of cedar so it would fit into the hollow fence. Then I drilled three holes through the fence after rebating them. Then these holes were used as a template. The fence was clamped to the piece of particleboard so I could drill through the fence and into the wood. Tee nuts were driven into the holes in the wood, Then the new 225 mm high fence was bolted to the tee nuts in the piece of cedar whilst inside the fence.
Works like a bought one.
IMG20231002114254.jpg