Restore Old Floor Boards - with a twist...

[silentC]

am I correct in thiking that this is just a measure of the length of timber - regardless of width or depth of the timber?

Correct

[BigCal]

Getting a bit further into my research... quick question - having never dealt with "lineal" meters before... am I correct in thiking that this is just a measure of the length of timber - regardless of width or depth of the timber?

So I have 100mm cypress boards... which means 10 lineal meters to each square meter that I need... I need 8.8 square meters so that means I need 88 lineal meters? might as well make it a round 100 lineal meters for wastage?

Also for recycled boards, is $6 a lineal meter expensive?

Cheers

And yet another question... what timber is needed for floor joists?
"structural pine MGP10"...? 90x45mm?

[KeepMyDayJob]

Hey BigCal and all,

I just noticed this thread after posting my own.

I have a really similar problem only the added twist is instead of 10sqm of yellow tongue, I have ~19sqm of concrete slab that is ~5-7mm proud of the boards.

I too am not overly fussed about the matching, but open to any and all suggestions as to how I can even get boards down (short of removing whole slab and build new subfloor??)

Just visited friends with boards throughout and I crave timber, not tiles. Worst case I will go to floating laminates, but the current boards seem fine.

My post is here...
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=59623

good luck BigCal. Let us know how it goes.

Cheers
Paul

[silentC]

I had a very quick scan over the previous page and I'm not sure why you feel you need new joists. If you have joists already at the appropriate spacings, it's not necessary to add new ones to coincide with your cupboards, unless I've missed something peculiar to your situation.

[BigCal]

I had a very quick scan over the previous page and I'm not sure why you feel you need new joists. If you have joists already at the appropriate spacings, it's not necessary to add new ones to coincide with your cupboards, unless I've missed something peculiar to your situation.

2 of the rows of cupboards run in the same direction as the joists - 1 of the rows of cupboards is not such a concern as its against the wall and has a wide footprint... so I know under that one there will be 2 joists underneath...

The other row is in the middle of the floor and has a narrow enough footprint that at best will only have 1 joist underneath it... and at worst no joists underneath... so before I go cutting around the cupboard and the cupboard falls through the floor I need to workout just where the joists are in relation to this cupboard with the narrow footprint...

hope that made sense...

[Larry McCully]

Getting a bit further into my research... quick question - having never dealt with "lineal" meters before... am I correct in thiking that this is just a measure of the length of timber - regardless of width or depth of the timber?

So I have 100mm cypress boards... which means 10 lineal meters to each square meter that I need... I need 8.8 square meters so that means I need 88 lineal meters? might as well make it a round 100 lineal meters for wastage? Good

Also for recycled boards, is $6 a lineal meter expensive?.Recycled timber is always a little dearer than new. $6.00 is fine.But for that you want good boards.

Cheers

[BigCal]

Cheers larry, I have found some others closer to home for $1.20 per lineal meter as well, might have to go check them out even if i need to spend time evaluating each piece its a big saving!

[silentC]

I see. Well as I said I didn't read it all thoroughly. So you intend to cut the flooring around the cupboard and only replace up to there. I think this is not such a good idea. If the footprint of your kitchen ever changes, you might reveal some of the old flooring. I think I would be either pulling the cupboards out and relaying the entire floor, or I would be putting the kitchen floor off until I updated the kitchen.

[BigCal]

Cheers silentC,

I had thought of this... it is a little concerning if we did decide to change the kitchen the kitchen is quite a good layout as it is and it won't be getting re done unless we decide eventually to go with the master renovation plan - which is adding a level to the house and knocking out certain walls in the exisitng house... which at best will be some years away and if we do it this way replacing some more flooring wouldn't be such a big deal - the existing floor would need refinished anyway as walls would be gone...

1 thing I did just think of tho (and is probably an incredibly stupid idea...) yellow tongue is 19mm thick i believe and I am pretty sure the floorboards are 12mm whats to stop me pulling out sections of yellow tongue and a time and sliding floor boards underneath and then using some sort of spacer to make up the 7mm difference? sounds like a hell of a fidley job but could it be done?

[silentC]

How old is the kitchen? If it's a modern modular style, they're actually not all that hard to pull out, although tiled splash backs can give you trouble. At the very least, I would consider moving the peninsula bench and running the new flooring under that.

If you're planning to renovate the whole place one day, I suppose I would be considering leaving it all as it is until then. You certainly don't want to be replacing rectangular sections of flooring later on because it will look terrible, with new boards cut into rectangular holes in old flooring. If you're taking out walls, then I think you would want to redo the entire floor at that point anyway, otherwise, you're going to have to fill a 110mm gap.

Food for thought anyway. Not sure what I'd do in your situation. When it comes to kitchens though, never say never

[BigCal]

At a guess the kitchen is probably 8 to 10 years old... it does look "modular" the kitchen we are quite happy with, we are going to paint the cupboards with the special paint - white knight i think makes it? and we would like to change the colour of the bench top... I wouldn't mind pulling out the peninsula bench, moving the pantry(currently in no mans land at the end of the peninsula bench... and putting and island bench/cupboards in where the peninsula is now... but the budget isn't going to go that far, this round of renovation is really to get rid of things that really irk us so we can live happily for 5 or more years while we have some more children... after that it'll be a re-evaluate situation, move, renovate, sell etc

btw, if anyone has tips on cheap kitchen bench tops and or cupboards... love to hear... maybe the budget can be stretched...

Edited to add... the more I think of moving the pantry and putting in an island bench the more i like it... bugga
Edited again, already started measuring I have perfect place to move the pantry to, and yes the kitchen is modular, little screw caps all over the place in the cupboards!!

[silentC]

I have this ongoing debate with my old man. He is a man of action, he likes to come up with a plan and act on it immediately, whereas I can take years to act. During the course of those years, I have many thoughts about the problem, look at it from different angles, judge it from experience, have a chance to think about what my wife and I like and don't like, check out what others have done. Then, after all that time, I finally make a decision, put a rough plan into place, and start work on it. The next day I change my mind.

[KeepMyDayJob]

BigCal,

We are doing a kitchen as well and converting a peninsula to island (but also moving enough to have to move piping - bummer). We have bought a kit kitchen (Kitset -Melbourne)- quite cheap and quality great. Spending a bit more on the bench tops though.

If your kitchen generally suits you can just throw in the island and possibly just change doors (and/or end panels) on your other cupboards if it is a modular or standard size. That way you only buy the new carcasses for the island.

Half your luck on the floor though. The cement slab we have (instead of the yellow tounge you've got) has stumped us - back to plan A and floating floors.

Cheers
Paul

[brynk]

bigcal gday

a good point is raised about the future. if you can afford to buy enough timber to do the areas in your entire kitchen then you would at least be guaranteed of having the material when the time comes. that aside, the best bet is to match existing floor joists' height so you'll need to make another trip down into the dungeon

at a rough guess i would be looking at using f14 unseasoned hardwood 100x50 or f17 structural kiln-dried hardwood 90x45, depending on what is already there. if you can't put some nails through the top of the particle board into the top of the joist, then you'll need to restrain the joist so it can't roll over under load or through the passage of time - take a look at one of my other posts here for some ideas on retro-fitting partial-length joist(s). to keep it simple you would probably be able to span your new joists from bearer to bearer but that post will give you some other options if you need them; it is the steel angle for fixing either end of the joist that we are interested in

once you've mounted the first joist with steel angle, join the 2nd joist to the first at 200mm centres with something long enough to go through one and well into the other - stagger these nails or screws from 1/3 top to 1/3 bottom so you don't propogate a split - do it from both sides offset by 100mm so they don't clash with each other.

now you also need to think about water-proofing this job or you'll be back where you started in 6 months time! how close is all this new work going to be to wet areas, ie sink, dishwasher, etcet? you will definately need to seal the cut on the yellow-tongue with a couple of coats of paint, and let it dry. you may also need to seal the end-grains of the joists if it is unseasoned to slow the drying process, and consider oiling all sides of the new boarding with any of the non-stain products discussed on these forums - the only one i have used to date is organoil woodguard on our deck & i can verify (on seasoned timber!) that it dries 'dry' without any residue on the board though you would need to leave it sit in the sun for a half a day face up so the wax in this product gets melted & can soak in properly

r's brynk

[BigCal]

Cheers brynk

My joists are 96mm x 50mm, is this unusual?

I can go from bearer to bearer with no problem... So going from bearer to bearer i need to get the joists on top of the bearer and over hang them by what 100mm? the only issue I can see with this is that the section of floor I am replacing is actually right between the 2 bearers and the floor directly above the bearers isnt getting replaced... so how do I get em up there without disturbing the floor or is there another way to go about it?

Also, yes the floor is under the dishwasher and infront of the sink so I will have to water proof it... bugger hadn't thought of that!

Cheers