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Thread: Blackbutt T&G
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6th October 2004, 05:38 PM #16
If you use hessian, hang it wet and stretch it firm. As it dries it shrinks and you will get a good straight substrate. When dried you could render it or apply wallpaper to it.
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7th October 2004, 03:04 AM #17
ooooo I like some of those murals... wish I could draw/paint
Can't find much on how to do hessian walls... probably a sign
I don't fancy cow dung on my walls... :eek:
Would plaster mix slopped on stick to wood? like rendering?
I don't know why I'm stuck on this idea :confused:
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7th October 2004, 10:19 AM #18Originally Posted by gemi_babeno-one said on their death bed I wish I spent more time in the office!
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7th October 2004, 10:21 AM #19
Plaster will stick to the timber but as the timber expands and contracts with humidity changes it is likely to crack at the joints between the boards.
Hessian lined walls were common a century ago. They were superceded by lath and plaster.
You could use render plaster over hessian reliably.
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7th October 2004, 10:26 PM #20
The old lath and plaster ratio was probably more like 3:1 timber:gap and the plaster was reinforced with long fibres possibly of horse hair or hemp. I wouldn't trust plaster straight onto your timber walls not to crack with any movement.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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8th October 2004, 12:43 AM #21
I'm with Mick. I reckon plaster will be trouble. Can you post a pic of the wall in question Kylie?
Without looking at it this would be my course of action FWIW.
1. Sand back with ROS to clean up and remove any residue. Has it had any finish before?
2. Clean down with turps allow to dry
3. Fill any big gaps, edges etc with a flexible compound such as silicon but I'm not sure how you colour match?? (black?). They may be other products. Some repairs, trim, coving etc might need doing.
4. Oil the daylights out of it with something like tung oil, maybe four coats and that would cost a bit. How many m2?
This wont solve the problem but I reckon it will reduce it heaps. Thats what I've found with old T&G floorboards that have been allowed to really dry out anyways. As for the cost of a Tung Oil product well I think your up for some bickies either way.
Sincerley hope this helps
CheersSquizzy
"It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}
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