Conduit for shed slab.

[Spider Webb]

As long as they are heavy duty.
I'm assuming if you are worried about what bends to use, that you will be getting a electrician to finish it off for you, so why aren't you asking him what to put in. As Yonnee said earlier most won't touch the job if they haven't seen what's underground.
My 2c : By your earlier questions i think you should be getting some quotes.

Stewart

[patty]

White bends are predominantly used for Communications Telstra etc Grey Conduit is medium Heavy duty used for "all surface area electrical applications Orange conduit is designed for underground usage

[rrich]

I can't address the code requirements because I'm sure that your code is different enough from ours that any advice from me would be worthless.

What I can do is to suggest some logical thought on the whole process.

The source of the electricity needs to get to the shed from??? (Perhaps the house? Perhaps a new feed from the power company?) Design the power entrance to the shed with this in mind. Here we would install what is called a "Subpanel". Typically a 100 amp breaker in the house or main panel feeds the subpanel.

Use the best method to get your main feed to the subpanel in the shed. I believe that you said that you are planning a timber structure with a steel roof and sides. Here we have something called romex which is electrical cable, typically two conductor plus ground inside a plastic outer jacket. It is legal for us to route this romex wire through walls without conduit. However we are required to put a steel nail guard where the romex passes through the timber frame. The intent of the nail guards it to prevent the home owner from hitting the romex when hanging pictures, shelves, etc.

Having done both types of wiring, it is much easier to route the romex through the unfinished walls than trying to install conduit. If you are allowed to use romex, I would suggest that method as it is so much easier.

Recent changes in the code here, require that romex be covered with some type of wallboard / sheetrock / plaster board on the interior of the structure. This includes sheds and garages.

[rileyp]

lol 100amp breaker.
Most houses in Australia have a 80 supply or less....
Romex=tps (thermoplastic sheath house wiring)
These drop in steel inserts for the wall frame sound like a good idea although do they have plastic bush ends on the edges of the insert?
Could you post a picture of one?
I hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread Com_VC

Cables installed below 1200 in plantrooms or areas where there is a likelihood for them to be mechanically damaged must be mech protetected in Australia.wg conduit cable duct top hat cover etc
Eg your shed at home around the walls and esp near the doors up to head height.

Please beware corrigated conduit is not to be considered mechanical protection as it isnt.

You can use grey bends but don't ask me the regulation.
hope this helps
cheers Rileyp

[rrich]

lol 100amp breaker.
Most houses in Australia have a 80 supply or less....
Romex=tps (thermoplastic sheath house wiring)
These drop in steel inserts for the wall frame sound like a good idea although do they have plastic bush ends on the edges of the insert?
Could you post a picture of one?

Rileyp

100 amps... I was afraid of that. Our 100 amps is about equavilent to your 50 panel due to the differing voltage distribution systems.

Ah, now I understand what TPS is... Thanks.

Please forgive the imperial diomensions. The nail protection plate is a 1-1/2 inch wide plate that slips over one of our framing studs or 2 x 4. The plate is about 2-1/2 inches long (think vertical) and has ears that allow it to be held in place with small nails. The plate has flaps about 1/4 inch bent parallel to the framing stud. What we do is to put the plate on the framing stud next to the hole for the TPS on the interior side of the framing stud. Then the plate is held in place with the small nails that are attached to the plate. After the wallboard is installed the plate is covered and undetectable.