Another roadside rescue

[Fumbler]

Just waiting for the finish to cure, and the one part that I thought I was going to have trouble with (ie end grain) has come out the best. So I am debating as to whether to give one more sand and remove the small visible grain from the arm faces and the legs.

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[Arron]

They look great.

My thoughts on your question - I’ve had more trouble from finishes being too thick then anything else, so generally stop as soon as you are satisfied.

Plus I like to see a little of the grain telegraphing through the finish, makes it look like real timber not plastic.

[Fumbler]

They look great.

My thoughts on your question - I’ve had more trouble from finishes being too thick then anything else, so generally stop as soon as you are satisfied.

Plus I like to see a little of the grain telegraphing through the finish, makes it look like real timber not plastic.

I agree, finishing is not my forte. I get it good and then think 1 more and she'll be apples, yet I end up fudging it and going back 3 steps and I never seem to get to where it was when I said 1 more. same now. I shouldn't have done this last one, so its a very good time to say, enough. besides i'm having a god awful time with a satin finish on some door name boards for a friend at my wife's work. I slapped on a few sealing coats on the back, then flipped em over and being the front, care needed to be given to get the best result, but in my haste i seem to have ballsed it up and its not sitting right, layer after sanded layer back to bare wood, start again. My wife has been pressuring me to get it done as been 2months apparently and this is what happens when I rush. Anyway the weather is not in my favour and as I live in "frog hollow" Lane Cove (ie the lowest part of the riverview valley and about 0-1m above sea level, it takes a while now to warm up in the mornings. cold temp and spraying finish does not always have a favourable result.

[Fumbler]

Arron, I see your from Central coast, want to give this bloke a hand at making a seat?

https://www.9news.com.au/national/20...-central-coast

hahahahaha

[Fumbler]

Footstool almost complete, the better half only has to sew the corners then I can finish off and get to the chair.

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[Keith_1]

Really like your work

Cathie would probably like me to try and do something like this

Regards

Keith

[Fumbler]

Really like your work

Cathie would probably like me to try and do something like this

Regards

Keith

Keith, knoowing how skilled you are, this simple project would probably be below you. But then again you'd actually have to stop playing with your big-scaled trains in the shed to be able to get in the car to find a chair to be rescued! Hahahaha.

life and jewettery boxes (and the wife's Christmas present) keeps getting in the way of me finishing this off.

Richard

[Fumbler]

Sorry about the long time between drinks but, a few boxes been in the way, so now finished the webbing and hessian covering, next to add the sponge, Dacron and finally the covering.
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[Arron]

If that were mine I’d be putting an extra strip of webbing right behind the front rail of the chair.

Otherwise the front rail may feel “boney” when you sit on the chair - and the foam rubber will do little to alleviate that.

Cheers
Arron

[Fumbler]

Otherwise the front rail may feel “boney” when you sit on the chair - and the foam rubber will do little to alleviate that.

Cheers
Arron

didnt think about that. Cheers.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

In the 19th Century, at least in the examples that I have worked on, they used a firm long 'mound' of a stiff padding to avoid that hard 'bony' front rail being felt on the legs. I have attached a photo of an 1840-50's chair I reupholstered. It shows that they used straw bound in a firm mound. You may find straw available but some other firm, long lasting padding would also serve.

Chair upholstery 1840's concave front a.jpg

[Fumbler]

In the 19th Century, at least in the examples that I have worked on, they used a firm long 'mound' of a stiff padding to avoid that hard 'bony' front rail being felt on the legs. It shows that they used straw bound in a firm mound. You may find straw available but some other firm, long lasting padding would also serve.

Now im confused, I thought Arron meant the inside, as the cushion sags, (hence the need for more webbing at the front) that's a pain, as I've cut the sponge, I could however still recover by putting a piece of sponge right at the front, I'll have to see how it goes. I'm preparing the material tomorrow.

[Arron]

Now im confused, I thought Arron meant the inside, as the cushion sags, (hence the need for more webbing at the front) that's a pain, as I've cut the sponge, I could however still recover by putting a piece of sponge right at the front, I'll have to see how it goes. I'm preparing the material tomorrow.

What I meant was that your first side-to-side webbing appears to be quite a long way back from the front rail of the seat. This will allow you and the foam to sink into this space somewhat, and consequently you will feel the front rail pressing under the thighs.

You want to have the first row of webbing right up close to the front rail, and good and tight. That’s all I was saying.

Then you are OK to put the foam cushion over.

BTW: another tip I’ve learned the hard way. Once you have the webbing and/or springs fixed on put the chair down on the ground and slap it around a bit. By this I mean sit in it, lean from side to side, rock it etc. listen for squeaks and feel for loose joints. It’s your last chance to fix things before having to do a total undo.
Weird things sometimes happen when the frame goes under tension from springs or webbing.

[Fumbler]

That's what I thought you meant and I have done that, adding another line of webbing up front. Cheers.

[Fumbler]

One step further along.

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