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1st May 2020, 10:35 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Perth WA
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- 1,621
I'd be using a mortising machine (MM), yer I appreciate they cost a few bob, but given the amount you have to do the MM will be a lot easier/quicker that a router.
Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture
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1st May 2020, 10:44 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 2,903
If you can get the speed that you feed the router bit to the work right burning shouldn't be a problem. Do a few practices before you start on the job. Remember, if the bit is getting hot enough to burn the wood it isn't doing the bit much good either - keep it moving.
If a lot of the mortises you have to do are the same setup I'd be very surprised if a mortise machine would be quicker and a router is a hell of a lot more versatile.
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5th May 2020, 10:28 AM #18GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- melbourne australia
- Posts
- 2,585
I'm not disputing the advice that full depth plunges at each end are the correct method. I'm just a hobby woodworker. However, when I route deep mortices I use multiple full length shallow passes. I don't even engage the plunge lock, which isn't a problem with standard bit, but could be a problem with a spiral bit which wants to pull itself into the cut. You just work the bit into the wood at a rate that doesn't result in chatter or burning. You soon work out how much to plunge on each pass.
It's easy on the router, easy on the bit and easy on your arms. I also use this method on my slot mortiser.