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Results 16 to 19 of 19
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22nd January 2013, 09:17 PM #16
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24th January 2013, 07:35 PM #17
New Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Location
- newcastle nsw
- Posts
- 4
global warming
Thanks Phil, thanky for the reply. I do believe it to be ROS... unless Mr ryobi and the salesman were in cohoots....
Unfortunately I purchased a fair jug of the kitchen timber oil so i wil have to use it up on this bar. Would you think that using two different oils would be noticeable? I am using this project to practice before embarking on using this method (probably using the recommended oil) to finish a large old bedframe with some very large flat areas. The better half seems to think the bed is more important than the bar.... and the finish will get better as the drinks go by so I'm not stressing over great work just yet. id be pretty happy with mediocre truthfully..
I think I have come up with one reason for the bogging down while I was inspecting the finish today . Without too much detail: about 1/3rd of it is in the sun from the open door making the 1/3rd that it bogged down, hotter than the rest. Finish in this area is not bad but not as nice as the rest. Temp gun says 5 degrees diff as we speak . I am hoping leaving the door closed all day will sort this problem out....
What do you reckon?
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25th January 2013, 02:12 PM #18
New Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Location
- newcastle nsw
- Posts
- 4
another question
When I oiled the underside some of the oil ran down onto the top . I wiped the oil away to prevent drips forming but now the edges of this face have some oil soaked in. Will I need to sand back or attempt to remove this oil with turps? Or can I just sand lightly and follow procedure?
Also Phil I may take you up on your one on one advice when i move on to the next project.
Cheers , E
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25th January 2013, 02:20 PM #19
Hi Hoss (by the way, I just loved you in Bonanza
)
I couldn't find any info on the contents of Feast Warson Kitchen Timber Oil (other than the tung oil component). I strongly suspect it has hardeners in it of some sort, because that would explain the ROS bogging down. On my early attempts using Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil and another type of danish oil (I can't recall the brand at the moment), the heat from the ROS seems to accelerate the activation of the hardener, causing it to prematurely set and thus bog down. That's why I now stick to the Wattyl oil (LGS' prescription) and get consistent results.
That's not to say you should throw away the FW Kitchen Timber Oil, but if you want to use it for the bar I wouldn't use your ROS. I'd instead follow the instructions on the can. At this stage I wouldn't use different oils on it; unless you wanted to sand off the finish, just stick with the kitchen oil (because with the base layer you won't get the benefits of a burnished oil finish.
Cheers
Phil"Come sit down beside me" I said to myself, and although it didn't make sense,
I held my own hand as a small sign of trust, and together I sat on the fence.
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