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Thread: Colorbond Roof DYI Install
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3rd October 2006, 11:35 AM #16
There is Sisalation and there is Sisalation. The quality can vary substantually. My house roof went on in 1983 with Sisalation and it is still as good as the day it went up.
Old Chinese Proverb: Buy dear cry once, Buy cheap cry for ever.
It is certainly an important part of a roof installation today.
It helps to reduce heat transfer.
It takes any condensation away to the gutter which can degrade any insulation in the roof cavity.
It provides slippage to roofing iron especially on green hardwood battens. This can be a major cause of noise such as loud bangs when the roof builds up tension from the roofing heating up from the sun.
Just my 2 cents worth from the life and times of a Lysaght rep.
I've heard all the reasons why people don't put sisalation in especially from the builders who hate putting it in because it aint easy.
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3rd October 2006, 11:35 AM #17Novice
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 4
Thanks guys, its all good.
I was planning on only doing the back part of the house to start with anyway, and a test, and if it turns out too hard get someone in to do the rest. I would have thought that doing it during the week while everyone was at work would have been better tho? And with all the shoddy extentions that have already been done on this place, its a wonder the previous owners wernt picked up on it.....
With regard to the screwdriver, for $49 I can't go wrong, tho I do recall a drywall adapter on Ebay for cheap as well.
I was not planning on doing it till later on in the year so have time to investigate fully anyway.
Thanks Barry re the sisalation, was going to put it on anyway, I agree on the principle that spend a bit more and get it done right.
One quesiton tho, sisalation or the wool blankets? I would imagine the blankets are quite dear?
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3rd October 2006, 11:54 AM #18
Good firm Barry - I still refer to my 'Lysaght Referee' 26th edition.
Peter Clarkson
www.ausdesign.com.au
This information is intended to provide general information only.
It does not purport to be a comprehensive advice.
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3rd October 2006, 01:49 PM #19Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2004
- Location
- Bendigo
- Posts
- 23
Tearing
G'day
I would definitly get the stumping done first. I have just bought a house where this wasn't done. After I got the resumping done I had to readjust heaps of previous reno's as far as your tin goes. I have just completed a couple of jobs where I had to cut roofing tin to size. I was shown the error of my ways (I was using a grinder). The old boy informed me 1 it will cause the tin to rust 2 there is a much easier way. What he did was screw the tin down. drew a line, then used his tinsnips to cut along the line 25 mm (he said an 1") then he simply pulled down on the tin (working over head) and the tin tore close enough along the line. the whole length. Saved heaps of time
Regards
Bear
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3rd October 2006, 04:05 PM #20Novice
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 4
Sounds like a good idea, I will keep that in mind.
The other option I was thinking of, and which keeps in line with my policy of for every DYI job I do at home I need a new tool etc, I was looking at a Bosch Metal Cut off Blade, about $50 USD so prob around $100 here...
And yes I can agree that the stumping should be done first from that point of view. The only saving thing is we are going to get the back half of the house torn down and have an extention put on, so the actual section of roof I am going to be "trialing" will have work done on it in the future anyway...
We actually have one of the guys recommended for restumping on this forum coming over tonight.....
Still some time off from a planning/ job scheduling list anyway...
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5th October 2006, 12:00 AM #21Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 5
I was told by a mate that a TCT blade installed backwards in the saw was the best way to cut colourbond/roofing iron.
Have never tried it. Has anyone done this or heard of it?
Cheers
SN
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5th October 2006, 08:14 AM #22
Why would you risk any injury or damage to the blade when you can buy an Irwin cold cutting blade for about the same price as a normal Tungston blade anyway.
Because when you have a blade in back to front the backing to the tungston tooth is leading instead of backing the tooth giving the potential for the teeth to break away and become a lethal projectile.
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7th October 2006, 09:37 PM #23Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Central West NSW Australia
- Posts
- 17
As a builder with some experience in these matters, I recommend you check this link and download and read the roofing manual before you start
http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/ind...F600C04FCF6B8F
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9th October 2006, 12:50 PM #24Novice
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 19
Just my two bobs on Sisalation ,I have a steel roof where Sisalation was uesd and it is very noisey when it rains even though i have roof insalation ,i helped a mate replace his old tyled roof with a steel roof and he used a insulation blanket it has foil backing and 50 mill thick insulation batt on the front when its used its hard up against the steel and stops vibration and the noise level in the house is much less than mine.
Foil faced blankethtt www.insulco.com.au/product_range.htm
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22nd October 2006, 08:22 AM #25
The nose cone on the GMC screwdriver will not fit over the hex bit needed for roofing screws. It's fine for phillips head bits and screws but I can't see how it will work for buildex screws.
The cone should bottom out on the iron and disengage the hex bit thus setting each screw the same.
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