Diagonal Bracing

[Beardy]

The building has already stood the test of time regardless of what current documentation says, when I started in the building trade we used a hammer and nails to build structures that are still standing today but now the same style of structure requires triple grips and screws etc to stop it falling down these days according to a piece of paper.

By all means add any additional support you think is necessary and check the condition of existing fixings like nails that may have rusted out but I would be reluctant to fit any modern products that will be visible to ruin the original appearance of the building.

[BMKal]

Our place was reportedly built in 1910 - we're on the opposite side of town to you, close to the hospital. I have replaced the sheeting on some parts of the roof. I found that the original jarrah was pretty strong and did not need any additional support / bracing, but it is impossible to drive a nail into it. You can't even drive roofing screws into the stuff without pre-drilling a pilot hole for every screw.

Ours was probably originally a miner's house too, with two bedrooms and a loungeroom in the front half of the house, with small kitchen / dining room at the back - outside laundry and toilet. The external cladding was originally the very fine flute corrugated iron - there is still some of it behind the gyprock cladding that has been installed over it where the verandah's were enclosed and turned into bedrooms. The outside of the house has since been clad with some sort of fibre cement boards with a fake "wood grain" finish, which is pretty common on houses around here. We also still have a very high pressed tin ceiling in the old part of the house, though it now has a more modern suspended ceiling below it. The house is now 5 bedroom with two inside bathroom / toilets, one of which also has a spa. The original verandah has been enclosed at the front and up the sides of the house, and the back of the house has been extended at least twice by previous owners (we have been in it since 1991). Biggest problem we have had has been re-stumping some areas of the floors and lifting the front / side bedroom floors to make level as they originally sloped away from the house when they were only verandahs.

I've found over the years that there are very few people around town who have any knowledge of past building methods and materials. Probably the most knowledgeable are the people at Kalgoorlie Salvage & Demolition located at the end of East Street up behind what was Ian Diffen tyre place on Boulder Road. They helped us a lot when we had to replace the asbestos sheeting roof on my son's house down near the racecourse. On that house, we had to attach a lot of additional battens as the number originally installed under the asbestos wasn't enough to support the colorbond we replaced it with.

[Boulder Block]

Yes I'm impressed with the workmanship and the wood they used. So many of these homes have survived for so long, including many that have been seriously neglected for maintenance.


We occasionally get damaging storms. In 2017 we had a storm with gusts over 100km/h, trees were blown over, some were as old as the town. The power lines were trashed so badly multiple crews had to be sent to work here and it took about a week to get power back on. All that has happened to my roof is a batten on the edge has worked loose, and from what I can tell it's because it needs replacing, nothing to do with the way it was installed.

[Boulder Block]

Thank you so much for that, I've been wanting to go and see them anyhow, good to know they are knowledgeable about these old houses.

Your house sounds a lot like mine, even down to the sorts of renovations and extensions it's had. I've often admired the older homes near the hospital as I've walked past. There is one right next to the hospital that has some lovely decoration, window hoods and the like.

I've had the experience with drilling holes in jarrah, I've never attempted nailing it. I've heard a few stories about that. One that it's do-able if you have a good enough gun and a bit of beeswax or oil. But I've also been told that if you do nail old dry jarrah the nails don't hold well. Not sure on the reasoning, but that came from a roofer. I don't think he was just making excuses. It was a heritage job and they were required to have nails to maintain the look. He offered to nail it so it could pass inspection, and then come back later and put screws in to make sure it all stays put.

[BMKal]

Some of the building methods (and materials) around this area are pretty unique. The last extension to the back of our place (back verandah which goes out from the house and covers the old laundry and outside dunny) was built with a drill-rod and second-hand jarrah beam frame. It is solid, but the drill-rod uprights were not physically connected to the cross members (also drill rods) by the original installer. We nearly lost the entire thing in a bad storm years ago when it started to lift in the wind. I have since welded it more solidly and installed some steel gussets and it hasn't moved since. I also picked up a truckload of drill-rods from a mate over in King Street Boulder and have used these to build what is now the wife's greenhouse between the back of the laundry and my big shed up the back. I remember when I first moved here seeing some old houses clad in flattened out cyanide drums - they were a popular building material for walls and occasionally roof sheeting back in the day - but haven't seen that for some time now.

I remember the storm you mentioned in 2017. I'm in Varden Street and some of the big salmon gum trees along our side of the street were blown over. The next door neighbour and I spent most of the next couple of days helping the council workers move some of the trees, especially those that were on top of a couple of cars. I forget how many trailer loads of firewood we stacked away for use in a couple of years - but the chainsaws got a good workout. Another large storm since then saw us without power for 5 days. Fortunately the neighbour and I both have generators, so our two houses were lit up at night and fridges etc still working in an otherwise dark street, and at a time when a lot of people and businesses in town lost a lot of food. We still managed to have cold beer when even the local pubs (Piccadilly and Tower) lost their refrigeration.

[Boulder Block]

I've been thinking about the weight of the sheet metal, because I wasn't sure about it. I have felt old corrugated iron that was significantly heavier before, but the stuff on my roof isn't like that.
I have a portion of a sheet of the original covering and it feels pretty light and similar in weight to modern corrugated. I was not sure if it had been reduced in weight by corrosion though, that could have made it a lot thinner, so I did a bit of work to figure it out.

The weight of Redcliffe Crown sheets is recorded in historical documentation. It was available in thicknesses from 18 to 28 gauge, with 26 gauge being by far the most popular. In 1875, 8-foot 26-gauge sheets were reported as weighing 10 cwt 10 lb per 68 sheets. If the width of my sheets is the same as what they are referring to then this converts to 4.51 kg/m2.

Using the Weight Calculator at Steelselect I found:
Fielders S-rib in .42BMT with Colorbond finish is 4.42 kg/m2;
Lysaght Custom Orb in .42BMT with Colorbond is 4.35 kg/m2;
Metroll Corodek in .42BMT with Colorbond is 4.30 kg/m2.

So the largest difference in sheet metal weight would be almost 5% lighter if Corodek was used as the replacement. If any was chosen in .48BMT then they would all be > 8% heavier.

[Mobyturns]

The building has already stood the test of time regardless of what current documentation says, when I started in the building trade we used a hammer and nails to build structures that are still standing today but now the same style of structure requires triple grips and screws etc to stop it falling down these days according to a piece of paper.

By all means add any additional support you think is necessary and check the condition of existing fixings like nails that may have rusted out but I would be reluctant to fit any modern products that will be visible to ruin the original appearance of the building.

That may well be true, however those "nailed" connections may fail over time due to a number of reasons, including corrosion, mechanical failure, and "working" where repeated loadings loosen the nail in the joints. It is prudent to test at least some of the mechanical fastenings (i.e. nailed connections) to ensure that they are still sound.

There are plenty of "Queenslanders" still standing after 120+ years that have weathered cyclones, but will they withstand the next one?

Dad was a builder in Cairns for many decades up to the early 1980's and saw a range of issues when renovating older homes. There are never any guarantees as we've seen almost complete and total failures of a specific connection type i.e. batten to rafter nailed connection due to corrosion of the nails, yet other homes of a similar age in the same area are OK. Why? Perhaps a range of issues, timber species, nail supplier ...

Be prudent, get advice on the requirements to upgrade the chain of connections from roof sheeting to foundation, as retro fixing non-compliant work can get expensive.

[ian]

I've been thinking about the weight of the sheet metal, because I wasn't sure about it. I have felt old corrugated iron that was significantly heavier before, but the stuff on my roof isn't like that.
I have a portion of a sheet of the original covering and it feels pretty light and similar in weight to modern corrugated. I was not sure if it had been reduced in weight by corrosion though, that could have made it a lot thinner, so I did a bit of work to figure it out.

The weight of Redcliffe Crown sheets is recorded in historical documentation. It was available in thicknesses from 18 to 28 gauge, with 26 gauge being by far the most popular. In 1875, 8-foot 26-gauge sheets were reported as weighing 10 cwt 10 lb per 68 sheets. If the width of my sheets is the same as what they are referring to then this converts to 4.51 kg/m2.

Using the Weight Calculator at Steelselect I found:
Fielders S-rib in .42BMT with Colorbond finish is 4.42 kg/m2;
Lysaght Custom Orb in .42BMT with Colorbond is 4.35 kg/m2;
Metroll Corodek in .42BMT with Colorbond is 4.30 kg/m2.

So the largest difference in sheet metal weight would be almost 5% lighter if Corodek was used as the replacement. If any was chosen in .48BMT then they would all be > 8% heavier.

Boulder Block,
these sorts of comparisons are in reality meaningless.

Your roof structure has to support the weight of the person installing the replacement sheeting, weights much greater than the weight of the sheeting itself.


Then there's the wind loading -- which again, is many orders of magnitude greater (perhaps as many as 4 or 5 orders of magnitude) than the weight of the sheeting.

[Boulder Block]

This was something specific to address the folk who think new sheeting is significantly different to old sheeting. That's all. I'm not trying to say anything else with it.

[ian]

This was something specific to address the folk who think new sheeting is significantly different to old sheeting. That's all. I'm not trying to say anything else with it.

sorry, I misunderstood.


My reading of this thread is that installation of the new sheeting will involve
1. pre-drilling the sheets with the supplied (recommended?) self-driving screws;
2. once the self-driving screw contacts the hardwood (Jarrah?) purlins, switch tools to a drill and predrill a hole to a depth slightly greater than the length of the self-driving screw;
3. switch back to the nut driver and drive the self-driving screw home. (I don't know if the same self-driving screw can be used to drill multiple holes through the sheeting, or if driving the screw through the sheeting once "blunts" it sufficiently to make drilling multiple holes pointless.)

So, in practice doing the re-roofing will require two drills, ideally one of which has a long (low resistance) tail.
Though the hardwood purlins might require that both drivers have low resistance tails.

[rwbuild]

sorry, I misunderstood.




So, in practice doing the re-roofing will require two drills, ideally one of which has a long (low resistance) tail.
Though the hardwood purlins might require that both drivers have low resistance tails.

[rwbuild]

sorry, I misunderstood.




So, in practice doing the re-roofing will require two drills, ideally one of which has a long (low resistance) tail.
Though the hardwood purlins might require that both drivers have low resistance tails.

[ian]

Originally Posted by ianSo, in practice doing the re-roofing will require two drills, ideally one of which has a long (low resistance) tail.
Though the hardwood purlins might require that both drivers have low resistance tails.

I'm thinking that the 120 or so old roofing timbers will be hardwood -- Jarrah, if Boulder Block is lucky, but more likely a locally sourced hardwood which after all this time will be almost impossible to drill into.
Hence the suggestion that the drill making the pilot holes might require a long low resistance tail.


US based woodworkers -- not that Boulder Blok is US based -- are almost universally surprised by how hard and abrasive Australia hardwoods are.

[jack620]

I suspect rwbuild is confused, as am I, about what a “low resistance tail” drill bit is. I’ve never heard of one, and Google isn’t offering anything.

[ian]

I suspect rwbuild is confused, as am I, about what a “low resistance tail” drill bit is. I’ve never heard of one, and Google isn’t offering anything.

should I apologise for the confusion ?


A heavy duty extension cable is what I am referring to when I say "a long low resistance tail"


Given the likely length of the extension lead, using a medium or light duty extension lead risks cooking the drill at the far end.