New deck - Area currently concrete tiles over sand base on top of concrete slab.

[brynk]

yeah i see no issue with sloping the post stirrups - the only show stopper is the fact that you slope on two planes & this stirrup is fixed on one axis; you would need to check out the post itself & this would reduce the overall size of your post to the neat dimensions of the remainder of the post in the area of the cut (the now weakest point).

you could rotate the post until the angle is right for both planes of slope however this would mean that your bearers will not bolt neatly onto the side of the post.

consider yourself up on the amount of work required to dig through the concrete (since you have decided not to do it ) - now you need to decide between setting threaded rod or grinding conc. as loki suggested - choosing the one requiring the least amount of work.

i think both would be fine structurally. grinding conc takes a decent grinder & discs and drilling holes takes a decent masonry pilot & bit of sufficient size & length. both these bits of gear can be hired; both methods will work well & more to the point both will be ok'd retrospectively by an engineer if approval is an issue.

r's brynk

[Dirty Doogie]

Um Guys - why not put a small blob of pure cement paste under each stirrup to level/true it ? next day come along and fix stirrup down with a powerbolt or chem bolt.

Clean off the pavers and sand etc and wash down existing slab first.

I dont see what the problem is.

[Dr - 307]

Dirty Doogie,

You mean just mix up cement on it's own, not concrete mix? Whichever method, will it bind to the concrete base? But of course, then I would fasten through the 'blob of cement' into the concrete base.......right?
So again, just cement on it's own or concrete mix or what???

[Dr - 307]

the only show stopper is the fact that you slope on two planes & this stirrup is fixed on one axis

The fall left to right is only 70mm so it's not much. Once bolted down I could 'persuade' the side blades of the post support back to plum. Wouldn't need much.

Alternatively, what equipment is required to grind down concrete?

[Dr - 307]

If your concern with using the bolt down post stirrups is with the sloping concrete then how about grinding the concrete to get a flat and level area and then bolting the stirrup in?

Spoke to Kennards about a diamond grinding (not cutting) wheel. He reckons just buy a wheel for the 9" grinder I have and use that. Says it will be easy.

What do ya reckon boys?

[Loki429]

You will only need to grind an area less than 100mm x 100mm.
A diamond cutting wheel on a grinder will do this easily.

If you do it this way then check to ensure you are not creating an area for water to collect and eventually rust the post supports.

[Dr - 307]

I'll mortar around them from the 'high side' so that the water runs around them.
This is the option I'll take. Thanks to everyone for trying to help. When I get started I'll take photos and of course throughout the 'course of the journey'. So once again cheers to all.

Now, I was staggered to learn from my plumber friend that he reckons in situations similar to myself he has seen tradies just pack the post support with washers. I couldn't believe it. No, I think I'll take the time (which according to Loki and others I spoke to shouldn't be very long) to do it properly.

.......for now.

[Dirty Doogie]

Pure cement mixed with water into a thick paste (stiff peaks stage) will structurally grout up to 35mm. Any thicker and you have to add 2 mm sand. You could add some bondcrete. If you are worried about adhesion to the existing slab scabble the surface a bit and keep it wet overnight then put down blobs of cement paste while concrete slab is damp but not shiny wet.

[Dr - 307]

Dirty Doogie,

Can I use the same method to grout around the base of each stirrup to stop the water from running over the stirrup? I suppose you could, huh?

[Dirty Doogie]

Yep sure could.

[Dr - 307]

E - xcellent Mr Burns. S**t, can't wait for the footy to start again. Go Burns.